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Chuck Seiler

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Everything posted by Chuck Seiler

  1. Chuck Seiler
    Venture forth. We are right behind you. <Who brought a flashlight?> One theory I have heard regarding the banana shape is: The bow and stern planks are curved as they are so they can be nailed bolted (clinker style) in such a way as to provide the support one would normally get from a stem/stern post.
  2. Chuck Seiler
    Received. Thanks.
  3. Chuck Seiler
    I used a small square file.
  4. Chuck Seiler
    This is Chris'
  5. Chuck Seiler
    Many thanks. How can I download/view? It requires either Facebook or gmail. I don't have a facebeak account and I USED to have gmail, but cannot recall it.
  6. Chuck Seiler
    I have done some research but not alot, so my knowledge is sketchy. Due to Viking travel to the Med, new building techniques were incorporated into norther European shipbuilding. As distance and cargo increased, the knarr evolved. There were many different designs and due to regional terminology it is hard to say "this is a nef, that is a holk"...at least as I understand it. Much like several hundred years later we see similar looking ships being referred to as carrack, nao and caravel, even though there was also a DIFFERENT type ship being called caravel. The I have seen the infamous "White Ship" of 1120 referred to as a holk/hulk. IIRC, all these ships had a curved bow and stern on common. They were build along the same lines as a longship or knarr. It was my understanding that the advent of a straight sternpost and stern mounted rudder marked the beginning of the cog.
  7. Chuck Seiler
    Chris, Well done! Something that has been bugging me for awhile...how does one get into the forward castle? The ladder leading up to it appears to be too far forward. I think it should rest on the rear of the castle rather than end underneath of it. I know that is how the kit is designed and that is how Roland von Bremen (replica of the Hansa Cog) had it, but.... Any thoughts?
  8. Chuck Seiler
    Is this model a cog (post 35) or pre-cog? Hulk maybe? I see the side mounted rudder. I thought even early cogs had stern mounted rudders. I am trying to get a handle on the shrouds. It appears the lower part is a hull mounted post. Could the upper part be a heart or similar?
  9. Chuck Seiler
    Rodolfo, The model is looking great! Keep up the good work.
  10. Chuck Seiler
    Heh heh heh heh (evil laughter and rubbing of hands). Another potential medieval ship model builder.🤪
  11. Chuck Seiler
    Huh? Whaaa? Who woke me up? No further progress on the long boat. I have it set aside for retirement. As you may have seen, I have started at least one other (which is also on hold).
  12. Chuck Seiler
    Why not black paint?
  13. Chuck Seiler
    I can go with fresh. Both of the models I have actually completed are fresh water vessels.
  14. Chuck Seiler
    To those of BIG town folk Los Angeles is a real pain. Been to Ohio. Never been to Minnesota. Why not Duluth?
  15. Chuck Seiler
    Hyperdrive.
  16. Chuck Seiler
    Ah.
  17. Chuck Seiler
    I am thinking these are more "sweeps" than "oars". Sweeps generally appear narrower, but that is probably when compared to what we think of as a smalll boat oar. In reality, that is quite a bit of surface area that has to be pulled against. ...and as Messis said, a greater number. The "oar holes" were made to support the oars/sweeps, not vice versa. It didn't matter how wide the sweeps were, the holes would have been made big enough to permit passthru.
  18. Chuck Seiler
    You are making me want to get back into the garage and do work on Cardydog. Oh, wait, it's 100 degrees in the garage. Maybe next week.
  19. Chuck Seiler
    Glenn, Good question. I was quoting your post but was recommending to Sheerline. I prefer boxwood, but who can afford/obtain that anymore, eh? I have had some success with beech, but Alaskan Yellow Cedar is my new go-to.
  20. Chuck Seiler
    I have had some success with edge bending. One problem I see is that you appear to be using walnut as your outer planking. I have found this to be brittle and hard to edge bend. Too late now in the process to change, but consider another wood for exterior planking in future models. PLenty of wood discussions on that topic. Good luck.
  21. Chuck Seiler
    Very often, admiralty style models are not planked below th wale, except maybe the garboard strake. 'They' say it is to reveal the interior of the model. That's their story and they are sticking to it. I think it is because they didn't like spiling. 😄
  22. Chuck Seiler
    Do you have any rule of thumb for length of plank stock? HobbyMIll stock was 24" if recall. I always had problems and had to lop off 6 or more inches before ripping. Syren stock is shorter.
  23. Chuck Seiler
    I don't see a photo.
  24. Chuck Seiler
    I agree with Steven/Louie. Marvelous work. Somewhere down the line I am planning to build a model of an English cargo ship used for transporting immigrants to America in 1683. It appears to be based on a pinas, similar to the flyte in many respects. I am using Ab Hoving's plans but will be relying on your build log for inspiration. ...but first I have to finish the 2 cogs and 1 carrack currently on the drawing board (that Louie tempted me into).
  25. Chuck Seiler
    Not size, but complexity. It involves single layer planking that you can see both inside and outside. The planking job must be perfect and that only (usually) comes with practice. Stick with it and enjoy the process. The hardest part of shipmodeling is what you are working on right now. It takes all your attention and skill to get it right. That which you finished yesterday is mastered and behind you (particularly the ones you had to do 2 or 3 times because you dropped the part on the floor, never to be seen again...except maybe your foot). Those things you need to do tomorrow are nothing more than a vague cloud of endeavor that will plague you at a future date.

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