testazyk
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Everything posted by testazyk
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Hi Jim--There is a product called Blacken-IT which can do a nice job of making guns look more realistic. There has been some discussion about using here. Check this out: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/1167-using-blacken-it Good luck! Tom -
Interesting question and I really can't offer much. The only thing I can think is that I understand that in heavy seas if the ship is listing the lower gun ports might actually be underwater. So maybe then you'd want to pump the water higher? It would be interesting to see what sort of valve system they might have had.
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Wappen von Hamburg by andy - Corel
testazyk replied to andy's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1501 - 1750
I love what you did with the windows--great idea. Also your boats look amazing. -
I'm glad your log came up and I got to see it! Beautiful craftsmanship and some really creative ideas. I'm doing the wooden version now and you're log has given me some great ideas for improvement.
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Hope this helps a little: I believe that they were installed on the inboard side of the rails as opposed to on the deck.
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I'm loving this! Very innovative and great craftsmanship.
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- warspite
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Nice job on the guns and the entire build is coming together nicely.
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In my opinion the Cornwall tool beats the Amati by a mile. I've had both and the Cornwall is far superior. The magnet on the Amati nailer isn't very strong and it's frustrating because when you point the nail down you lose it about half the time. Worse, the tube on the Amati is very narrow and takes only the tiniest of nails. (They may have helped that problem but providing two tubes, but I don't know if one is a replacement or a larger size). Speaking of which, the tube on the Amati is paper thin and bends very easily which could never happen with the Cornwall.
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My even more low dollar solution--I do major cutting and sanding either outside or in the garage because you're right, the dust gets everywhere!
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Just Wishing ...work benches (edited)
testazyk replied to BubbleHead's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Yes, but if you had one, you'd have to eat at the kitchen table! -
Looking much better!
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In addition to all the good reasons listed here for using PVA, it also wipes off cleanly with a wet rag so that you don't get any marks on your deck after you varnish it.
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HMS Leopard by gobi71 - 1/300 scale
testazyk replied to gobi71's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Amazing work! I look forward to seeing the build progress. -
Thanks Chris! I've always avoided painting for all the reasons you say but I'll definitely try out your approach!
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Hi Stu-- Nice job on the deck and I agree with Dave's comments about the hull. As far as your stern problem, I'll be interested in hearing what other people say but I think you have a few options and junking the build is the last resort. The problem looks very obvious from the angle in the picture but the first question is how often will anyone see the boat from that angle? Usually people will view it side on and the problem will not be so noticeable. I'm not advocating doing a build you aren't happy with but it might be OK to just continue. Personally, rather than leave it like it is, I would try to shim up the piece that is crooked. You could camouflage it with your second layer of planking and no one will be the wiser. My guess is that you will plank over the stern walls and that will hide your added pieces. It's hard to tell from the photo but it looks like a bigger problem may be that the stern post is also warped. That could cause some serious challenges installing the rudder and might even be a deal breaker. But once again you could possible shim up the sternpost on the starboard side and it will probably be alright. Good luck! Tom
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Lots of great advice here. I'd only add that you may not have actually oversanded--the thin planks you get for deck planking in a lot of kits don't have much grain in the first place. If you think the deck looks really boring you could add some detail in the form of trenails or simulated caulking and there are lots of good posts here about those things. I try to avoid paint wherever possible and use varnish. I also avoid finishes like linseed oil. Although they look great, unless you put your ship in a case it will attract a lot of dust. Because I varnish everything I usually wait until the very end to do it and only do places that will be hard to access. I do that for a couple of reasons. First, and very important as someone mentioned, glue doesn't stick well with some varnished surfaces. Also, if you do your finishing piecemeal you can get irregularities which no one will see--but you will! One other thing--I usually do varnish small parts that I will be filing or sanding because the varnish can help prevent splits. Good luck! Tom
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Hi Zack-- Not sure if this well help. I've only used this web site for pictures and they have some good ones of the Endurance. Not sure if they have a kit but it might be work getting in touch: http://www.tehnoart.eu/endurance-.html Also, by all means take advantage of a suggestion by your wife (aka the Admiral) to buy a kit. And tell her you're going to need a lot of tools too! You may not often get blanket advance approval in the future! Tom
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Great craftsmanship!
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Thanks Wombat--Yes know what you mean about shaping those blocks. My kit was an old one too that predated laser cutting and everything so the early stages were very labour intensive. I hope you have as much fun and satisfaction with your build as I did and I look forward to seeing some pictures. Tom
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Thank you very much Kenny! I've had my eye on the Wasa for a while but already have a bit of a backlog with the Soleil Royal and Sovereign of the Seas. You will really enjoy the San Felipe.
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Thanks Carl! I haven't put sails on any of my builds (except the Chinese Junk) because I like the look of no sails. Maybe for my next build??
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Thanks, Chuck!
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Thanks for this information. Do you actually slice off the scrap wood like with a plane or is it more of a scratching and smoothing?
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