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Everything posted by Louie da fly
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So many ropes! (That's one reason why I stay away from later vessels. So much simpler in the middle ages!)
- 41 replies
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- thermopylae
- scientific models
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That seems to be the way of it, B-Ram. Apparently the model kit companies are experiencing unprecedented demand - it's probably not how they wanted to increase their profits, but . . . Perhaps you can order it on-line if you can't get it any other way. Unfortunately getting rid of flashing is one of the inevitable issues in plastic modelling. But as with all things, there comes a time when it's all done and you can move on to more interesting things.
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Very nice. Scrubs up well - much crisper and cleaner but still retains its patina of age. You've managed to balance the two very well - a difficult job. My hat's off to you. By the way, regarding the support for the mizzen lateen, do you have (or have access to) The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast 1600-1720 by R.C. Anderson? On pages 231-241 it has a good explanation of this subject with diagrams, from a time and place considerably closer to the Great Harry than the examples above.
- 71 replies
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- great harry
- henry grace a dieu
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Sounds like the ideal time to start a log. Planking, particularly of a clinker-built ship, is perhaps the most difficult procedure in ship modelling. Posting photos of your progress will mean that more experienced modellers will have the chance to see how you're going about it and offer assistance with the (inevitable) problems that arise in getting it right.
- 170 replies
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- gokstad
- dusek ship kits
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Hi from15 nm west of Hamburg / Northern Germany
Louie da fly replied to Oboship's topic in New member Introductions
Uwe, I'm sure everybody would love to see both your completed models and a build log of your present one. I know I would. -
Nelson, you should certainly do a build log. Just as you learnt from Jack's log, others may learn from yours. Even if you're already part way through your build, you could post "catch-up" photos up to the present and then continue from there. Apart from anything else, you may get valuable advice from others watching your build.
- 170 replies
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- gokstad
- dusek ship kits
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Welcome to the club! Your strategy for the keel sounds like the right thing to be doing. Building up out of bits that are nice and straight and square is (almost) always prefreable to carving to shape (don't ask me how I know) Way back when I was making armour, my signature on the armour forum was "It's not really armour unless you've bled on it". I fancy the same applies to ship modelling. Certainly several bits of my own model have little bloodstains on them.
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Ah, the wisdom of hindsight! If only we'd thought of that at the time . . . But the thing is to treat this model as a learning experience and transfer the lessons learned to the next build and the next . . .
- 41 replies
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- thermopylae
- scientific models
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I know what you mean. Without a drill press it's not possible to get the holes perpendicular so that they line up with the outline of the deadeyes, and even with one it's probably pretty difficult without lining everything up perfectly. But even a few deadeyes at a time could be an advantage. I've hit the same problem - until I get my drill press set up I can't do that kind of thing.
- 756 replies
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- galleon
- golden hind
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I've found that drilling the holes before shaping (or at least before cutting the deadeyes apart) reduces the chance of splitting.
- 756 replies
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Kris, I'm really enjoying following this build, and your problem-solving procedure. It's really fascinating seeing how you're overcoming each obstacle as you encounter it. That and your thoroughgoing research and attention to detail are very impressive.
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I did say it takes a special kind of insanity to build a model of a galley . . . but it's a glorious kind of madness.
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Just a small update. Here is how the oars are fixed to the "gunwale" (can it be a gunwale when guns haven't been invented yet?). A hole drilled into the gunwale just aft of the thole (see red circle). And a hole in the oar, with a brass pin inserted. Then the pin is put into the hole in the gunwale and the whole assembly glued in place - both at the gunwale and at the oarsman's hands. The handle didn't quite line up with the oarsman's hands, so I moved the oar's pivot point slightly further along the shaft - so the whole oar was slightly further outboard. I'm now regretting putting the pavesade (the railing that will hold the defensive shields) in place so early. It's made access rather difficult, particularly when drilling holes. It was a problem when I was trying to drill holes for the ringbolts, and now again trying to drill holes to pivot the oars - the home-made drill I made from a small brass pin wasn't long enough, and I had to make a longer one from a dressmaker's pin with the end cut off. The first oarsman is finally complete, painted and glued in place, holding his oar (note the lemon yellow hose!). Not totally happy about the inboard hand on this one, but as I get more experience with doing these I'm sure I will improve. I'm trying to work out the best way to portray the loop of leather or rope that holds the oar to the thole - as it would have been pretty thin I'll probably just use a bit of cotton glued around the oar.
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I'd agree with you about the rectangular upper deck, Ships88, and your plan to"bash" it to a more believable shape sounds good. When making a model based on theoretical reconstructions this kind of thing is likely to come up every so often, and this probably won't be the last time on this build that you'll question the way the kit has configured the model. That's all part of life's rich tapestry Good to see you back again, by the way.
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Making progress, Bill. It probably feels very slow at the moment but each small advance is one step further towards the completed model. It's good to see how you're improving your model compared to what was provided in the kit.
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That's looking very good, Jamie. Couldn';t agree more . .
- 41 replies
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- thermopylae
- scientific models
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Hi Feathermerchant, That looks very good. They certainly had parrel trucks at that time (the earliest evidence I've found is the beginning of the 15th century). And they found a parrel truck among the aftefacts of the Mary Rose. I saw it when I was over there in 2009. That lateen rig looks very good. There's a diagram in my post of June 9 at (kindly supplied by Woodrat of this forum) of the support for a lateen yard, but this is specifically Mediterranean, with a fixed block (called a calcet) at the very top of the mast. I'm sure that wouldn't apply to the Great Harry, and that the one you're proposing is better for the job. Unfortunately as I've mentioned elsewhere on this forum, they're "relocating" the Powerhouse Museum to Parramatta, about 12 miles out of Sydney, on a floodplain, and as I read the information, making it "interactive" (i.e. dumbing it down to attract the kiddies). So their model is likely to vanish into some store-room oblivion like the crate at the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark. The photo they supply of the starboard side is probably the best you're going to get in the foreseeable future. Their model's rigging is nice and complete, but it's quite possible (considering how alike their model and yours are) that their yards are also wired on. Time will tell. I think you're best to go with what you have in mind.
- 71 replies
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- great harry
- henry grace a dieu
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Mark, that's a very valid point and quite a few of the rowers on Olympias used an underhand grip. I hadn't taken that into account, but at this late stage I think it would all be too complicated. Chuck - nice. I hadn't thought of that one! I do remember that an inkeeper asked Lord Nelson for permission to rename his pub The Nelson Arms and Nelson said "But I only have one."
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Hi RDL, Are you still out there? I only just came across this log and it looks really good. Then . . . nothing. Did you ever finish the model?
- 14 replies
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