Louie da fly

The technical term for those is machicolations. Steven

Here are all the blocks together, including the knights for the halyards. If I've got my maths right, that's the lot done. And I've been experimenting with dyeing the cordage for the heavier rigging. Here is the ball of cord - stark white - along with the cotton for the thinner stuff, which is the color I want the heavier stuff to be. Unfortunately, the colour values aren't all that good in this photo, but I think you get the idea. First I tried a teabag in boiling water - after 10 minutes, 20, 30, 40 and 50 minutes. There was almost no difference in colour between them all, but the white had turned to a rather pretty very light tan. Then I tried 4 teabags over 24 hours.The cord got considerably darker - but I discovered I liked the first one better. Top - undyed, second after 10 minutes, in the middle a block with the two different cord thicknesses (undyed), and the bottom one is after 24 hours with 4 teabags. Again the colour values aren't as good as I'd like them to be, but you can at least see that the colours are different. The 10 minute dyelot is a nice gentle colour, which I'm happy to use. I just hope the tannin doesn't do anything nasty to the (cotton) thread. Steven

SJSoane has just finished the Bellona's seats of ease, and the build log includes some very good photos of them from the contemporary model of the Bellona - see

Goewulf, that appears to be a different ship - a French ship called the Saint Louis which is dated to the first third of the 17th century. The note at the bottom of the site Marco linked to says "El Galeón San Luis del S. XVII, participó en la Batalla de las Dunas, en la que luchó contra Francia y Holanda en la Guerra de los 80 años" The galleon San Luis participated in the battle of the Dunes (1600 AD) - [also known as the Battle of Nieuwpoort] in which she fought against France and Holland in the 80 years war. So the timing is similar to within a few decades, but the French ship of three gundecks is considerably bigger - and in my opinion, more modern - than the Spanish ship with only two. But apart from a river crossing in boats the battle of the Dunes was fought on land - see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Nieuwpoort- so how a galleon was able to take part in it I don't know. I'd agree with Amateur that this model probably represents a "generic" galleon, rather than a specific vessel, even if it's been given a name. Regarding the plans, I found this - http://www.anb-online.it/navi-mercantili-e-navi-antiche/le-documentazioni-di-vincenzo-lusci/1403-galeone-spagnolo-175/ - apparently you can buy both plans and Vincenzo Lusci's monograph, though I don't know what the situation is regarding copyright. Or, and probably better still, you could buy Lusci's book from ebay at https://www.ebay.ca/sch/sis.html?_nkw=Spanish Galleon Galeone Spagnolo 1607 wooden model building book Vincenzo Lusci&_itemId=174195024314 . The price is fairly attractive, but the cost of shipping seems rather high. But if, as Amateur says, the drawings by Lusci don't match up with the Disar model, that may not be any help to you. If the booklet is all you have, it makes it a little difficult. Probably your best option is to start a build log in the Model Kits section. Post photos of the contents of the box - all the bits and pieces of the kit. There are many experienced modellers on this forum who will be able to help you step through the process. The other thing is to look at similar build logs, particularly of galleons - both kits and scratch built, - such as and pick up tips from how others did it. And have fun with it! Steven

Magnificent, George! You can be justly proud of this model and the research - and skill - that went into producing it. Steven

That's magnificent, Wolf. Beautifully done with very fine detail. Dteven

Georgios, the overall length of the ship (without the 'spur') is 660mm, the length of keel is 495mm, the distance from the bottom of the keel tothe top of the gunwale is about 45mm and the overall width between the outside of the gunwales is 110mm. The keel itself is very thin and narrow - 3mm thick x 3mm high - but you don't have to do it the way I did - I had quite a lot of trouble with the keel bending (though that was more likely to have been that the wood was from a recently cut tree and had not seasoned properly). Please do not hesitate to contact me if you need any help. Steven

I was going to add a reply about Hannibal being on a vegan diet and leave you to form your own conclusions, but good taste intervened (oops! Sorry!) Instead I'm uploading some photos of the blocks I'm making for the shrouds of the dromon. These are the lower blocks of a pair at the bottom of the shroud, where deadeyes would be on later ships. They're pretty small and I've been drilling the holes with a tiny brass pin with the head cut off, inserted into my hand-drill. (I do have a drill press but it's still in its box until I get my workshop sorted out). The brass pin is too small to fit in my drill's chuck, so I got a tighter chuck which then goes into the chuck of my drill (if that makes sense). I bought a packet of these pins so long ago that I can no longer read the label, and for quite a long time I've looked unsuccessfully for more - I find them incredibly useful, and I was worried I'd run out. The a few days ago I stumbled across a packet in an art and craft store (and immediately bought it, of course). They're called sequin pins! Who knew? Without a drill press I have to estimate as best I can when the drill is perpendicular to the workface and hope for the best. Recently I've been drilling half-way in from both sides and joining the holes. It works ok - most of the time (see below). I make two blocks at a time from the same piece of wood (an offcut of pear wood from making the oarsmen, actually). The main problem is drilling close to the edge of the wood often causes the wood to break off at the edge. So I've taken to making the blocks too big, drilling the holes, then carving them down to the right size. Here's the process: Roughed out and holes drilled. There is a 1mm hole at right angles to the sheaves for the rope that fixes the block to the hull. I carve fake (unmoving) sheaves - that's the way I started out, so I'm pretty much committed to it. Having looked at how other people mass produce "built-up" blocks, that's probably what I'll be doing for the next model. I'll be buying the sheaves - I don't have the facilities or skills to make them myself. Slot and "sheave" carved for the first block. And the second. As you can see, in one instance the holes from the two sides didn't quite line up, but that should be all but invisible when the block is in place. Blocks cut to size and separated. And here is a block together with the two-sheaved upper block it goes with. I've so far made all twelve two-sheaved blocks and the six smaller one-sheaved blocks for the tacks, vangs and parrel truss. I've done thirteen long single-sheaved blocks out of 20 needed. That, plus carving the last 7 oarsmen are what I'm concentrating on at the moment. Steven

By the way does anyone else think this guy looks a little like Hannibal Lecter? Steven

I have done that in the past, Druxey, and it does work better. But I had only a limited supply of pear wood so I squoze as many figures into the wood I had as I could. Fortunately I'm nearing the end and I'll be able to stop soon Steven

Well, in a castle it was normally known as a garde-robe and it opened directly above the moat. Yes, that's the same word as wardrobe - they apparently kept their clothes in it because the smell kept the moths away . . . And Richard the Lionheart's favourite castle in France, Chateaux Gaillard, was captured after some guys climbed up the wall into the overhanging garde-robe. I wonder if the general asked for volunteers! Steven

I thought I'd share with you the process of carving one of these oarsmen. I used a craft knife with a No. 11 blade. Checking against an existing oarsman to get the size of the head right. Putting the eyes in - unfortunately you only get one chance to get it right and this one's eyes aren't exactly the way I wanted them - he looks a little ghoulish. Still, I'm willing to accept this as the focus is supposed to be on the ship, not the oarsmen. Final touch-up and paint should make him look a little more human. , And finished ready for sanding and adding his arms, which I have left till last so I can get their position right in relation to the oar. To give you some idea of time-scale, I carved the head and face while I was listening to Bizet's l'Arlesienne suite (30-45 minutes) and the body while listening to the Beatles Abbey Road (about the same amount of time). So maybe one and a half hours in all. But it's very hard on the hands - I can only do one or at the most two in a day and then I need a rest to recover . . . But the good news is that this was No. 41 of 48 - only 7 to go! Steven

Hmm . . maybe worth making a model of it? I don't know - would the Navy have records of her service? Steven

Beautiful work, Eberhard. Steven

Beautiful work, Wolf!

Very nice scarphs, Marcus. A lovely bit of planking. Oh, and although "Many people believe that Captain J. Cook discovered Australia in 1770. They tend to forget that Dutch mariner Willem Janszoon landed on Australia’s northern coast in 1606. Cook never even sighted the coast of Western Australia)." I grew up in Western Australia. In Primary school we had a history book called "Australia Since 1606", which covered de Vlamingh and Dirck Hartog, the pewter plate at Shark Bay, and the naming of the Swan River and Rottnest Island. And the Fremantle Shipwreck Museum's display space is devoted almost entirely to artefacts from the Vergulde Draeck and the Zuytdorp, and of course artefacts and the remnants of the hull of the Batavia. So the Dutch discovery of Australia certainly hasn't been forgotten, particularly in Western Australia. In fact the western half of the continent (when they didn't know it was all one big island) was known as New Holland right up until the time of Matthew Flinders, who circumnavigated the continent and coined the name Australia. Steven

No, definitely electrical. The Legend includes "emergency circuit", "Signal circuit" "Marconi (radio) circuit" "220V lamps" and "commutator". It has "valves", but they are bound to be electrical valves (diodes, triodes etc). I'd say he received it as part of his training and kept it as a reference, as he'd be certain to need to know not just the wireless circuit, but all the electrical circuits on a ship. Regarding "Genova", it's pretty certain it's not the ship's name. The rubber stamp at the bottom is SEL - Societa Ellettromeccanica Ligure Fonderie - Genova = "Electromechanical Society of Liguria Foundries - Genoa", and to me that simply says that the headquarters of the SEL was in Genoa. Yes, the blood chit was obviously intended for South-east Asia. It includes Thai and Vietnamese as well as Malay and Indonesian, and even Tamil (Sri Lanka and southern India). By the way, do you know the name of the minesweeper he served on? There's probably a record of where she served. Steven

Nonetheless it's looking very good, Chris. That's going to be a very attractive model. I'm a bit of a cog freak, so I'm enjoying following this build. Steven

Beautiful work, Ekis! Steven

Hi Stu and welcome. Have you started a build log yet? We need pictures! Lots of pictures! Steven

That model's already looking very good, Fuji. You've done very well in just a few months! Welcome to MSW. Start up a build log for your model (you can include "post-dated"photos). We're all suckers for pictures of beautiful ship models and you should be able to pick up a lot of tips as you're going along. Steven

Great that you're getting back to it after all this time. I think you'll find a lot of us are in the same boat (me included). With your background in modelling you should be off to a good start - when your kit arrives! The people here are very firendly and helpful, so don't hesitate to ask questions. And start a build log - it's the best way to get that help when needed. And have fun with the model - that's what it's all about. Steven

Thinking about it, maybe Thunder's suggestion of a plastic Bounty would do the trick - does your girlfriend have any objection to plastic? It can still look very good, and would take a lot shorter time to produce - and a lot less hassle - and still be a three-masted square-rigger rather than a boat. Might be worth considering. Steven

G'day Sandoman. I'd agree with Jonny's advice. For two reasons - one, you're more likely to finish something simpler. Two, even if you do finish, it's going to take you a good long time to make something as complex as the Bounty (beautiful as it might be) - much longer than your girlfriend would be happy with. A longboat would be a good choice, or perhaps a singlemasted ship like a cutter (though that would be considerably more complex and take longer than the longboat). Both can be very impressive when finished - don't forget ships' boats did have masts and sails; they weren't just rowing boats. I'm not familiar with the quality and ease of building of the various kit manufacturers (I'm a scratch builder), but I'm sure other members will be able to give you some guidance in getting a kit that doesn't strain your abilities as a beginner. Use the search function at the top of the page to find build logs for cutters and longboats (and don't forget the Bounty's jolly boat!), to get some idea of how long they usually take. I started my own dromon in 2015 and I'm only now approaching the end of the build - but I reckon I still have several months to go. By the way, where are you in Oz? You might find there are other modellers not too far away from you. Steven

Don't forget to start a build log in the "Scratch Build" section, so others can admire your work, help you with problems, give advice etc. Everybody here is very helpful and I've had a lot of very valuable assistance from the members of MSW while doing my own build. Have you built a ship model before? I'm sending you a private message. You can access it by going to the top right of the page and clicking on the picture of the two "speech bubbles" Steven (Lowe)