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Louie da fly

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Everything posted by Louie da fly

  1. By hand. I think a slip with a power tool could be disastrous. Takes awhile, but much less time than doing the carving. Steven
  2. Not quite sure what that means - not even sure I want to know . . . Well the hands will be able to recover now. Oh, and to clarify, it's not that I kept cutting myself as I carved (though that does happen occasionally), but the heel of the left thumb gets painful, almost as though it's been bruised (it hasn't). Probably just holding the hand in a position it's not meant to be in for long periods as I hold the figures to be carved. Steven PS: I'm onto sanding the figures now - a little more than half way through.
  3. That's a very clever technique. You're doing a marvellous job with this model. Steven PS: Where in Oz are you based?
  4. We have a flute player The others may take some time . . . I feel like resting on my laurels for a while . . . Steven
  5. Pat, I was in the sea scouts when I was a kid but I still haven't mastered how to tie a bowline, let alone a sheepshank or sheet bend. I can do a reef knot, and a round turn and two half hitches . . . but I always had trouble with getting my head around knots. Now onto other things. A real milestone - I've finally carved the last of my oarsmen! But wait! (I hear you cry) they still need to be smoothed off and they don't even have arms yet. Crikey, you're a cruel bunch . . . Steven
  6. Thanks, Druxey. Unfortunately I didn't have a tape measure with me - otherwise I'd have been able to find out whether the gun was 8'6" or 9'6" long (much less usual). Steven
  7. I went back to Wombat Hill, and sure enough there was an inscription on the end of one of the trunnions: And another (later)inscripton below it . . . Steven
  8. By the way, at the risk of derailing the thread somewhat, I take it you're familair with the 1956 movie "Battle of the River Plate"? If not, much of it's available on Youtube, particularly the battle scenes. Steven
  9. HDFC - I like it. I'll have to use that term from now on. (Thus speaks the man who, after the Battle of Hastings re-enactment of 2000 AD was known as H2K (Hastings 2000) - for the 2006 re-enactment coined the term TNBO -The Next Big One - which became the shorthand for the event among the re-enactment community. Of such things is immortality made). Steven
  10. Welcome to the Dark Side, Chuck. I have to say I found the comments about the WH's forecastle interesting - they relate directly to a discussion at Maybe I need to re-evaluate some of my thoughts on this. If some cogs were indeed purpose-built as warships, the fact that some cogs had forecastles and "fortified" aftercastles while others didn't might be significant. And I'll be re-looking at some other contemporary pics from the 15th century with ships lacking a forecastle - perhaps purely merchant ships? Steven
  11. Looking good, Jo. You're starting to get on top of hull planking, and every time you do another model you'll get better at it. Steven
  12. Hi Slowhand. Looking good. You might find Cristiano's polacre buildlog helpful as a reference - https://modelshipworld.com/topic/7290-venetian-polacre-by-cristiano-finished-xviii-century-from-original-drawings/ Steven
  13. Neither could I. It just might be missing - accounting for the titles every so often. Steven
  14. I just came across this video with quite a bit of original footage of the Graf Spee: It might have some worthwhile information in it to helpyou with your build (sorry about the intrusive watermark). Steven
  15. No, Mark. it's part of the "truss" which holds the yard to the mast, but is loosened when tacking to allow the yard to shift to the other side of the mast - per this illustration from Björn Landström's book The Ship. Pulling on the "downhaul" tightens the truss, pulling the yard to the mast. Loosening it allows the yard to swing free so the lower end can be pushed past the mast, over to the other side which is now the leeward side. That way the wind doesn't push the sail against the mast, which allows a better aerofoil shape and reduces chafing. Steven
  16. Actually there are plenty of newbies on this forum - it covers a very wide range of skill levels. I have to admit looking at the best of them is a bit intimidating at first, but noblesse oblige - I find the best of them tend to be the most helpful (and tolerant of the dumb mistakes of us lesser beings!) Steven
  17. Just did a test for the sling and parrel/truss for the lateen yards, following the Fonseca diagram so kindly sent to me by Woodrat. Like him, I haven't put a block between the halyard and the truss - with the layout I've got it's not needed. Also, no parrel truck, just a rope sling - there is no archaeological evidence for a truck with beads in this period and the very earliest pictorial image I can find for them dates to the beginning of the 15th century - 300 years or more after the date of my dromon. This was just to see if I could make it work - I'm terrible with knots etc and it took me ages to get it right. I'll add the lower toggle and block when I do this for real. At least now I know it can be done, and by me. Steven
  18. Very nice work, Matt. Everything you always wanted to know about the designs on Viking shields (and many other things) is at http://members.ozemail.com.au/~chrisandpeter/shield/shield.html Steven
  19. Hi Mark, First, welcome to MSW. A lot of Aussies here, and it's a really friendly bunch. If you've got ships a-building, favour us with photos in a build log in the "Kit Models" section. We're always suckers for pictures and you may pick up some helpful tips from the members regarding your model builds. And Bismarck and Graf Spee are classics. Steven
  20. Nice work, Goemon. That's going to be a very attractive model. Steven
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