Ryland Craze

That is a nice looking model. I am glad that Model Shipways is producing a kit for first time builders. You could not have a better teacher than David Antscherl, the designer of this kit. The description of this kit states it is the first in a series of progressive model tutorials. This is definitely what a new builder needs to improve their skills. So many new builders come into this hobby, get frustrated with their build and leave, never to come back. This series of kits should give them the confidence to complete their models and move on to more complicated ship models.

You are doing a nice job on your Atlantic. It looks like the contact cement was the right choice for the scribed deck.

You are off to a good start on your Beagle. It is never too late to start a build log. I see that there are 131 videos on YouTube of building this model. Here is the link to these videos: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?reload=9&list=PLrPwa5r7zKUzDlhkDF4ztrTc2ag_wVD_a

Welcome to Model Ship World Lars. The OcCre kits build into fine models. I am glad your son "tricked" you into this hobby and that he shows an interest in your work. I will be checking out your HMS Beagle build log.

Floyd, I am sure that you are not the first modeler to break a frame when fairing a Medway Longboat. The frame broke at a place where it will be visible on the inside of the hull. The break is about one plank width above the top of the floorboard. If you decide that you will repair this frame, this is how I would do it. I would first take some wax paper and place it on the laser cut seam of the frame center where the breaks occurred. It looks like you may be able to slide some wax paper in the seam under the section of the center frame where the floor and top timber are joined together right at the break. This should keep the removable part of the frame from being glued to the actual frame. Next, I would glue the broken frame where the breaks occurred, both top and bottom. Then I would glue some scrap pieces of wood on both sides of the top of the frame (side closest to the build board) to reinforce the frame where the break occurred, similar to the reinforcement you did for the single frames. This should be covered up by the cap rail later in the build and not visible. This repaired frame will be very fragile but should hold the planking very well and should be almost invisible at the break. Just remember that you will need to fair the inside of the hull once the frame centers are removed, so go lightly on fairing this frame. This is a minor setback as we all have had something like this happen to us. You will get it fixed and continue on with this build.

Hi Mike and welcome to Model Ship World. I am glad you have joined this forum and enjoy the build logs. We have an enormous group of talented builders who have shared their builds with us. I look forward to seeing your posts.

Welcome to Model Ship World Phil. A lot of model ship builders honed their skills on Artesania Latina kits. I look forward to seeing your pictures.

Nice start to your build. I have always been amazed at how plastic modelers can paint plastic to make it look like wood. Good job.

Great job Michael. It is a beautiful model.

You are off to a good start on your Cutter Alert. I look forward to seeing your modifications to this kit.

Looks nice Grant. I am glad you have restarted this build.

I would take a piece of notebook paper and trace the curved bearding line onto it. You could then cut this curve out of the paper and use it as a pattern of the bearding line. With the pattern, draw the curve on the opposite side of the false keel. Once you have drawn these lines, you want to gradually taper the false keel from the line to the edge of the false keel. You can use a sanding stick to do this if you do not have a chisel. The goal is to gradually take off enough wood so that you are thinning down the edges of the false keel to be 1/16" wide which will require you to take off 1/16" off of each side of the 3/16" keel. When the stem and keel are attached to the false keel, you will have a 1/16" rabbet for the planks to be inserted into. Take your time on this and you will get it just right. This will make for a good planking job.

The frames and keel look great, way better than your first attempt. It was well worth the time you spent to correct the prior issues. Just take Chuck's advice and you will do fine. I found my nail files in assorted grits at Sally Beauty Supply and have seen them in Walmart and Target in the beauty section.

Welcome to Model Ship World Dan. You did a good job on building your skipjack. I am glad you started a build log on your Mayflower as it will be nice to follow your progress.

Robert, Check out these two topics: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21199-optivisor-recommendations/?tab=comments#comment-642855 https://modelshipworld.com/topic/22697-optivisor/?tab=comments#comment-673382

Congratulations. I know the feeling

Jake, Take a look at the planking tutorials in the following post: The various links will take you to PDF articles on planking a hull. These articles are a great resource for beginner ship modelers as they will explain the hows and whys of planking a ship model. As VTHokiEE said, the planks needed to be tapered at the bow. All of this is explained in the planking articles. Good luck on this build.

Welcome to Model Ship World Sam. You have some really nice looking models. It must be a lot of fun to build a model and then get to run it on the water. The Philadelphia Ship Model Society is near you. They are currently meeting by Zoom due to the Covid 19 pandemic. Here is a link to their website: https://www.philadelphiashipmodelsociety.com/

Welcome to Model Ship World Dave. I tend to paint as I progress through my build. Check out some of the build logs and you will see how other members painted their models while building them.

Hi Leslie and welcome to Model Ship World. I am not a plastic ship modeler, but we have many talented builders of plastic ships who may be able to help you out. You could do a search of the Yamato on this site and check out the build logs for this ship. If you get a chance, please post pictures of your completed ships. We would like to see them

Hi SeaDoc, I have moved your question to a different forum and edited the title to reflect your question. The keel on this model is two parts and the laser cutter etched the bearding line on one side of the wooden sheet that held these parts. The way the parts were laid out, it was etched on the port side of one piece of the keel and the starboard side of the other piece of the keel. What you need to do is trace the bearding line of each piece on a sheet of paper and transfer this line to the opposite side of the two keel parts. This is explained on page 6 of the instructions. I hope you start a build log as we would like to follow your progress. It is also a good place to ask questions about your build. This kit builds into a very nice model. Good luck on your build.

Mike, Congratulations on finishing your Endeavour Longboat. This turned out to be a nice model and it sounds like you learned a lot building this model. What are you planning on building next?

Congratulations on completing another fine model. Your painting makes this model come to life. It has been a pleasure to follow your build of this model.

Hi Mike and welcome to Model Ship World. I am glad hat you have been hooked into this hobby. Building a wooden ship model is very rewarding. I look forward to seeing your build logs.

Welcome to Model Ship World Jim. You are in a nice location being close to the Chesapeake Bay. I enjoy going to Annapolis to see the US Naval Academy and as a kid I used to go to Colonial Beach. I am glad that MSW helped you in the construction of your Flying Fish. Like Chris said, the new kits today are light years ahead of the old kits in terms of quality, instructions and materials.