KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Roger. I should have explained. Germania has an all metal welded hull (and frames). I don't want to try and build a metal hulled model so I will plank it and paint the hull above the waterline. Below the waterline I think I will retain the wood finish coated in matt poly. I don't want to try and attach a metal bulwark to a wooden hull as I think the natural tendency of wood to shrink and metal to expand (particularly in modern centrally heated homes) will lead to cracking / buckling along the join. -
Valeriy Sorry I wasn't clear. I understood your method of cutting the gear teeth. What I was trying to understand was the following photograph. You are using your lathe tool to cut the recess on the face of the disc. Did you recess both faces of the disc and if so how?
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Lovely work Jose. Very impressive.
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Hi Michael. I find it easier to keep track of sanding the same port and starboard frame. It's quite easy to be keeping the sanding patterns on port and starboard the same only to discover that i'm not sanding the same frame. Hope that makes sense. (Alternative answer - I like the way the sanding dust comes off a pretty purple colour) Wefalck, We found a copy on the web for £15 and will order a copy. Thank you.
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Hi Mark Over the years I have amassed a large number of sophisticated sanding tools. My favourite tool was a no expense spared device fabricated from aged pine and antique cork, beautifully crafted and ergonomically designed:- It flexibly accommodates a variety of different sanding mediums secured by very effective quick release fastenings. Its flat sanding surface with one round and one square edge is slender in form and is perfect for sanding along the frames while getting into those tight curves where the hull meets the keel. I supplement this with the use of equally exotic tool of a more compact and elegant design, this commercially available tool was modified by myself at great expense to have one edge with a more rounded form. The devices work best when paired with a specialist sanding medium. And now back to a sensible point - I do find this sandpaper to be excellent. Very good material removal, stays sharp, and does not fall apart - even on difficult jobs like sanding the end of frames. Available on Amazon.
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While recovering from a family dinner we were discussing my beloveds Grandfather who has an interesting maritime background. In 1917 he was captain of the SV Eduard when she was intercepted by German Minelayer UC-70 off beach Head. The ship was boarded and sunk with charges. The crew were allowed to escape prior to the sinking. The Eduard was built in Lubbock in 1898. It would be good to discover more history but various searches have turned up little - any ideas??????
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Mark - I agree with you about the keel - I keep looking at it and thinking its proportions are unusual. It's not terribly deep but is quite long and very slender, and as you say set quite far aft. The rudder also seems smaller than I might expect. It must have worked noting how successful a racer she was. Wefalck, Yes I think you make an important point. Given that the frames are obtained from a rather small master I think I may need to iron out a few undulations. You have probably convinced me.
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A little more progress of the tiresome kind - but at least I have finished with the dining room table for the present time. I attached the solid former for the below deck level of the stern - made from obechi. I used 2 thin (.008") strips of aluminium inserted into the slits for separation of the frames at deck level to locate and support the former. The final step was to colour up the frames - red and blue in preparation for fairing. Then it was back to the workshop for a couple of days of sanding. To be fair the sanding took a total of about 3 hours I just couldn't stand it for more than 20 minutes at time - separated by many tea breaks. While sanding I was at pains to ensure that so far as possible the sanding patterns were consistent side to side as per photos. I now need to decide what next. I had thought that I would double plank, the first layer in obechi .040" directly on to the frames overlaid with .060" mahogany. But today I sort of decided on an alternative plan of infilling in balsa between frames and then single planking with .060" mahogany. The advantage of the alternative plan is that it helps a bit when it comes to building up the bulwark. Anyway I will sleep on it before making a decision.
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Mark - I have never used silkspan and in looking it up on the web it is described as heavy tissue paper (of various weights) that does not have good puncture resistance. Yours seems to be much more robust. Is yours something different from what i see described on the web? Sails looking great.
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Dan - I was pleased to find your update, you detailed explanations are always a good read. Very nice detail. I look forward to your next post.
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- leviathan
- troop ship
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Patrick - 2 reasons why I shy away from "working" models. Reason 1 - I imagine spending years crafting the detail to the best of my ability only for some idiot to ram it with epoxy filler reinforced monstrosity with a ram bow and oversized motor. Reason 2 - I don't like the compromises necessary to make it sail well - oversized keel and rudder.
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Patrick - Imagination - I sould have been more explicit, it is a static display model.
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Michael Magic- as all lanterns should be.
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Pat. Thank you for your suggestion. I was thinking of doing something similar but using the existing frames as the former for the bulwarks. I too need to avoid the bulwarks sticking to the frames and waxing or using stick resistant paper seems a good Idea that I think I will copy. The curvature of the bulwark at the stern is quite marked and I think I will need to form it out of a number of planks cut to trapezoidal cross section - like the staves of a barrel. I would have preferred to form the bulwark out of a single piece of ply but unfortunately I don't think I have this luxury. I do like the epanding aspect of your jig - pretty neat idea.
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Looking good.
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Looking ahead a dilemma presents itself, whether or not to reproduce a botched job. From photos it seems that Germania Nova was built with a choice of anchors. This isn't unusual as different anchors have different capabilities in holding on weed, mud, sand etc. The following photo shows a Danforth anchor on the port bow. I have other shots showing fishermen's anchors stowed port and starboard. Clearly the Danforth and the hull made poor bedfellows as witnessed by the following:- If i were the owner I wouldn't be very pleased!!!!!!! Must have been done by a champion bodger.
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Michael - pretty little thing. Did you bend the top and bottom flanges before doing the vertical folds or after? Before seems to make sense but I can't see the cut marks?
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