KeithAug
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Everything posted by KeithAug
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Michael - scrap box's wouldn't be so useful if it wasn't for experiments. -
Hello Sorjs. I built this model nearly 30 years ago and I still have the finished model. It is interesting to see how Billings have value engineered the kit over the years. When I built the kit nearly all the hull was planked - none of the large flat plywood panel sections you have had to deal with. As a consequence of the planking solution the hull profile was much less angular than yours. It is a pity that in the pursuit of profits manufacturers are inclined to cut corners on even the less expensive materials. I cant believe that the cost of a hundred of so obechi planks rather than ply would have made the kit uneconomic. I hope you health is improving.
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Excellent Patrick - so is it back to boats now you have finished your intergalactic space cruiser?
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Ah yes good point Andy - always pass the port red wine to your left.
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I finished fairing the frames - the bottom of the keel turns out to be unbelievably fine - i think I will correct it to have a small radius curve as part of the planking process. As I decided previously I made a start on infilling between the frames. But first I re-coloured the frames in preparation for further sanding later on. I infilled with medium hardness balsa in a range of thicknesses - 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2". I quite enjoy the process although it is a bit time consuming. I am sanding the balsa to be flush of the frames as I go along. I will finish sand once the infill is complete. \ The sanding dust is getting everywhere.
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Excellent work Michael - now i need one at scale 1:36 for Germania's launch, how about it?
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Wefalck Michael gave away your christian name - it is less impersonal than Wefalck. Do you mind if i use it?
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All this dialogue on the subject of bulwarks prompted my reflection of the earlier suggestion from Pat (Banyan) re preventing the bulwarks from attaching to the above deck frames (these will act as temporary formers for the bulwarks). My thought process went along the lines of "having my cake and eating it". In practice I want to be able to glue the bulwark planks to the frames while I build the bulwark, but it don't want the planks glued to the frames once the bulwark is complete. With this in mind I decided to try a solution whereby the bonding of the planks to the bulwark was strong enough to provide the necessary support during assembly but weak enough to be easily removed once the assembly was complete. Hence the following experiment:- I took a piece of ply the same thickness as the frames and stuck a piece of paper over the end using double sided tape. I then glued the simulated planks to the paper covered edge with PVA and allowed it to dry. Once dry I pulled the ply away from the planks. The force to do this was small and the paper split as I expected leaving one surface on the edge of the ply and one surface on the planks. I then did a light sanding - just enough to satisfy myself the the paper on the planks would remove easily. I think I am going to try this on the build.
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Im afraid that I too prefer wood or metal - and anyway I do not think I am in the "Doris" skill class. I'm going to have a go with mahogany first and default to other options if I can't make it work.
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Yes I agree. My thought was turn up a bar to the OD of the gear with a spigot the diameter of the gear bore - then glue the gear on with superglue, turn the recess and then heat to break the superglue bond. I thought however that Valeriy might have a better plan.
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Roger -Yes - if you look earlier in the build log this was what Michael Mott suggested. The issue is the curvature on the frames at the stern - as per line drawing - If you look at the bulwark area of frames -7 to -2 and then imagine what a ply bulwark would have to do I think you can see that it has to twist and bend considerably fore and aft as well as curving vertically. If the bulwark was attached below the line of the deck (for strength) then the 3 dimensional curvature problem becomes more pronounced. I think to get the shape in the area of the stern I am limited to fairly thin strips of wood pre shaped a bit like the staves of a barrel. The bulwark has capping rail which when fitted will considerably add to the strength. It will also mask the out of scale thickness of the bulwark plank. Your first suggestion of a metal Bulwark (also previously suggested by Wefalck) is somewhat better for dealing with the curvature as it just involves a bit of tin bashing, but then it introduces the dissimilar materials problem. Oh humm!!!!!!
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Wefalck - Sorry I was being a bit loose with my language and was referring to Nova. Not sure about the original but the hull seems quite smooth in the limited number of photos I have seen.
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Roger. I should have explained. Germania has an all metal welded hull (and frames). I don't want to try and build a metal hulled model so I will plank it and paint the hull above the waterline. Below the waterline I think I will retain the wood finish coated in matt poly. I don't want to try and attach a metal bulwark to a wooden hull as I think the natural tendency of wood to shrink and metal to expand (particularly in modern centrally heated homes) will lead to cracking / buckling along the join.
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Valeriy Sorry I wasn't clear. I understood your method of cutting the gear teeth. What I was trying to understand was the following photograph. You are using your lathe tool to cut the recess on the face of the disc. Did you recess both faces of the disc and if so how?
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Lovely work Jose. Very impressive.
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Hi Michael. I find it easier to keep track of sanding the same port and starboard frame. It's quite easy to be keeping the sanding patterns on port and starboard the same only to discover that i'm not sanding the same frame. Hope that makes sense. (Alternative answer - I like the way the sanding dust comes off a pretty purple colour) Wefalck, We found a copy on the web for £15 and will order a copy. Thank you.
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