MORE HANDBOOKS ARE ON THEIR WAY! We will let you know when they get here.
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Cathead
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Paul, It looks like the link in your signature isn't actually a link, or is a mis-formatted link. When you edit your signature, make sure you select the text you want to serve as the link (such as "Revell container ship Colombo Express", click the link tool (looks like a pair of handcuffs to me and is next to the quotes), and enter the actual link (https://modelshipworld.com/topic/28943-revell-container-ship-colombo-express-scale-1700/) in the URL box. That should result in this: Revell container ship Colombo Express, which is what I think you want. Have fun with your project!- 17 replies
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Nice work so far. I've never used a magnifying lamp (yet, I'm only 41), so can't help you there.
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The Midwestern US was also hit very hard by freezes this year. We lost all our pears, apples, cherries, and peaches, and took damage to blueberries and grapes. Welcome back to the build!
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You've got a nice display & conversation piece there! Congrats on finishing. I also like your tool display photo, a nice idea for others.
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Excellent! This will make a nice companion for your Syren. Glad to be in from the beginning. Adding the rigging yourself sounds like a fun extra challenge.
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I had the same thought as Justin in wanting to encourage you to enter the photo contest. Here's the official link: https://thenrg.org/contests Don't know what I can add to the existing plaudits, beyond my personal gratitude for taking the time to share this build and for taking such excellent photographs to document your work.
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Cool, that's what I wanted to know. Thanks!
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Thanks, Roger. I was especially referring to the original ship; was there any engineering reason to lay the plates out in a certain way, i.e. to ensure that the In or Out plate was at the sheer or garboard?
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Fascinating and good-looking. Would there have been any reason to ensure that the upper- or lower-most line of plating was In or Out?
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If you feel like studying up on rigging and sail management, you can learn how that was really done. Your method certainly achieves the desired visual effect. I agree that it opens up some nice sightlines.
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Micromark appears to host a version of the instructions. Pictorial version here: https://www.micromark.com/Instructions/85648 Mississippi.pdf Written version here: https://www.micromark.com/Instructions/85648 Mississippi Detailed Instructions.pdf Found these with a 30 second Google search. Further digging might turn up other options.
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Just found this build of a kit I'm very interested in after reading about its release. Great work so far and a useful early tutorial for later adopters. I second the Caroline Alexander recommendation, by the way.
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Brian, that makes a ton of sense. I can easily see how trying to shape actual brass rails in a consistent and parallel shape could be maddening, and how much easier styrene would be. Again, you'll be in my thoughts as we go through a similar period.
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Lynn, good start so far, and you're right away (re?)discovering the world of confusing instructions. As an editor, I've contacted multiple model companies offering to work with them to improve the clarity of their instructions, but none have felt it was needed. Shrug. Looking at the final model, I don't think this issue will matter. Whether or not the knee comes all the way up to the top of the lower stern transom doesn't appear to have any structural significance, and that area ends up covered anyway. So I suspect you're fine. Would be far from the first time that instructions developed from a prototype don't match the final commercial product. In fact, I wonder if they changed the part size. Look at the drawing on page 3, which appears to show the stern transom knee being the same size as the bow transom knee (not quite a bit larger as in the kit parts), and neither reach the top of their respective transom. So I wonder if, in final kit development, they made the stern transom knee better (better stability for the model?) but didn't revise the instructions to match?
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Lovely work as always. Correct me if I'm wrong, but are those railroad irons just essentially iron rails, and that's why you were looking to source HO-scale track? I wish I'd known, I have a lot of leftover brass track that I would happily have sent you for free. Apologies if I missed that detail early enough to have made a difference. It's been a distracting time here and I maybe haven't been reading as closely as I should? Your approach certainly does and will look great. Condolences on your loss, I've been there recently too and am still working with the aftermath.
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Very attractive, a result to be proud of.
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Making the rudder was fairly straightforward. It comes in two pieces that need to be carved and sanded from their solid block shape into the rounded form necessary. Here's a look at this in progress: I attached the handle by carving out a socket for it, then drilling a fine hole that let me set a brass nail into the joint: And here's the finished product mounted on the hull after staining: I'm slowly plugging away at oars; I can only handle making ~6 at a time before I get too cramped. Here are the oars so far, loosely mounted for display: I also built four more chests, using a slightly different design but similar method. These are smaller, to add some visual diversity. So here's the cargo so far: And a slightly broader view with the ship in the background: Feels like progress. Really, the oars are the holdup now. But I keep thinking of other details to play with, like a good anchor, and bundles of weapons, and finishing the shields, and so on. This will probably drag on for a while. But it feels close!
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I agree, Syren rope is heads and tails above regular kit rope. Things continue to look great here!
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Thanks for posting that, Kurt. I was pretty shocked; I had settled in on the couch to watch the program with no expectation whatsoever of needing to have my camera or mic on, and had to scramble when that came up! I couldn't have gotten anywhere on this project without the support and mentorship of so many people here.
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NRG Capstan Project
Cathead replied to tlevine's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Just purchased my version. Won't be getting to it right away (need to finish my current project first), but this gives me incentive to keep moving. I have a bunch of wood that I cut and milled on my rural property (cherry, maple, walnut), and have been curing, as I want to start building with my own materials, and this will be a great early step in that direction. I do have a question, though. In both the PDF and here, you mention the need for a "hobby sized circular saw". In the woodshop parlance I'm familiar with (having grown up with a cabinet-maker stepfather and having a variety of building experience myself), a circular saw is a handheld saw like this: Or sometimes a miter saw like this: However, I'm pretty sure from context you're referring to a table saw, like the popular Byrnes model: That's what's shown on p. 10 of the PDF. Can you clarify what you mean, and perhaps consider changing the wording to say "table saw"? I actually went Googling for a "hobby size circular saw" to see what you were talking about and couldn't find anything, so I doubt I'd be the only person potentially confused by that wording. Thanks for putting together this great project! -
CA is nasty stuff. The bottles specifically warn against skin contact or fume breathing. I'm pretty sensitive to most chemical fumes (even things like bug spray and perfume set me off), so use CA as little as possible and only for short periods. Otherwise it gives me a headache very quickly. I find paint to be the same way; I've kept my focus on acrylic paints with little odor because some of the other ones destroy my health and comfort in short order. One of the things I really love about wooden modeling (as opposed to the plastic modeling I did much of my life) is how relatively benign wood glue is compared to most plastic cements and other adhesives. Your figures look great and do add a lot of life. I started painting figures for the first time during my current project and found that I really enjoy both the project itself, and the results.
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On MSW, this is called the signature, and here's a thread that explains how to do it. My wife is a scientist who has also worked in male-dominated fields and has often been cautious about revealing her gender in related online or publication settings because she has definitely experienced discrimination and other issues. When I joined MSW, I was fairly cagey about identity at first because I didn't know what I was getting into. I've opened up quite a bit since then as I've learned just how friendly and helpful this community is. I'm so glad you feel comfortable as well. There's certainly an innate assumption that most modelers are older men (rather justified by the actual demographics), just as I tend to get odd looks as a younger man going into craft stores! And there can be a bit of a "boy's club" mentality here at times, just look at the nature of the prevalent jokes about "admirals", "honey do lists", and so on. But I think all communities benefit from diverse perspectives and participants, so you're all the more welcome for that reason. Thanks again for sharing your work with us and I hope you'll enjoy a long and worthwhile time here on MSW.
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Congratulations, she's beautiful. A result to be proud of, and even more to the point, you did a great job learning and applying what you learned as you progressed. I look forward to seeing what you do with the pram! If you remember, once you start that build log, let us know here as I'd like to follow it as well. By the way, I'll be in Kansas City next week, among other things at the Tuesday and Wednesday Royals games.
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My favorite way to handle this issue is with a needle threader. These are sold in various crafts shops and also by model suppliers like Model Expo. They're extremely useful and versatile. Just make sure to get a packet of a few, because they can also break given their delicate nature. Another tip is to use a bit of glue to seal in one end of the rope/line in question, as even tiny frayed ends can catch on a hole and make it really hard to pull the rope through. You can even use a knife to shave the glued end into a pointed shape (like its own needle) that will help it pass through. You can then just cut off the 1/4" or less of glued area once the threading is complete.
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Pedantic alert, those aren't really lifeboats, but rather work boats. Their primary purpose wasn't lifesaving or safety, but rather as auxiliary craft for all sorts of everyday needs. For example, a research paper on Beagle's boats (delightfully titled "The Beagle's Pups") notes that she "carried seven open boats of varying types, which were employed in surveys of waters which the ship could not reach." Other uses would have included carrying water casks to and from shore (along with other provisions), towing the ship during calms, allowing harbor access when quays weren't available, and so on. Just mentioning this as you've expressed an interest in learning as you go. You're continuing to make great progress!
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