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G.L.

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  1. G.L.
    Tony, every time I watch your log, I learn new things.
  2. G.L.
    Part 1: Introduction My fishing smack cross section is finished; a new project is already sprouting. But first my workshop is urgently in need of a deep cleaning and there are also a lot of jobs waiting for me in and around the house of which the priority must be upgraded if I want to preserve the peace in the household. So the start of my new project will have to wait. That does not mean that I will go off-line for a while. While making the fishing smack cross section, I was simultaneously working at another POF model. I didn't want to keep up two logs at the same time, but now the pictures are sorted and the model is well advanced, enough to keep the log running while I am busy with other things. I can continue giving weekly updates retroactively at least until I am ready again to start a new project. My previous building projects were working boats (Ostend shrimper and fishing smack) and a warship (HMS Triton cross section). Now I want to build a pleasure boat. I found my boat in an small handout for making plank-on-frame models that I bought some years ago from 'Nederlandse Vereniging voor Modelbouwers' (http://www.modelbouwers.nl/ ). The handout is an assembly of articles which appeared round 1950 in the Dutch magazine 'De Modelbouwer'. They are written by Jules Van Beylen, former conservator of the Belgian National Maritime Museum in Antwerp. In the handout Jules Van Beylen explains how to build plank on frame models on the basis of four small ship models varying from basic to moderate level. The second model of the handout will be the subject of my project. It is a small gaff sailing sloop with a retractable center board. It is an imaginary boat, a design of Jules Van Beylen just for modeling. I doubt that real examples of it ever have been built. One of my previous builds, a coastal fishing sloop was a simple boat, but it took me almost three years to build it (and it is not yet complete now). This is a much more elementary model, so it will be finished somewhat faster. The plans include two sheet: a general construction plan and a rigging plan and are not included in the handout, they have to be bought separately at the 'Nederlandse Vereniging voor Modelbouwers' (http://www.modelbouwers.nl/). They are laying already some years in a drawer waiting to be used. The model will be built at scale 1/10. It is a 7.50 m long hull, so the length of the model will be 75 cm.
  3. G.L.
    Fantastic details.
  4. G.L.
    Will you place such a railing device also?
  5. G.L.
    Nice done, the opening in the deck to show the ballast stones. The boxes for the catch, were they filled with water to preserve the fish alive?
  6. G.L.
    Your Standart is a real masterpiece.
  7. G.L.
    Nice work, Jim. Will you plank the whole hull or will you leave a part of the frames uncovered?
  8. G.L.
    The skipper seems to be happy with his new berth 😃.
  9. G.L.
    Thanks Björn
  10. G.L.
    Thank you Nils.
  11. G.L.
    I made some detail pictures of the cross section. They can be watched in the gallery.
  12. G.L.
    Thank you Carl, Sea Hoss, Gary and Mark, It was also great fun to me to build the model. I am very glad that you liked my log. I hope that I can interest you with new projects in the future.
  13. G.L.
    Yes Patrick, it was BNS Zénobe Gramme (A958). I had command of the ship during 4 years, the most exiting years of my career.
  14. G.L.
    I agree.
  15. G.L.
    Knap gedaan!
  16. G.L.
    Nils, you are going full ahead. Nice work.
  17. G.L.
    24. The display board I guess this will be the last part of my building log. Here you see an almost two decade old picture from the time I was captain of the navy sail training ship. The picture is made in the navy yard in Zeebrugge during the winter maintenance of the ship. This picture gives a good idea of what I have in mind with the display board. I want to present my cross section on blocks like it would be laying in a dry dock. I suppose that the floor of a dry dock in the twenties was a not a nice flat surface in concrete as it is in the navy dock yard, so I will cover my floor with cobblestones. I start with sawing a board of 12 mm MDF plate. Then I coat it with white wood glue and on top of it I roll out modeling paste to a thin layer of two to three to mm thick with a rolling pin. I wipe the surface smooth with a wet sponge. I made a wooden punch with the sizes of the cobblestones (± scale 1/20) and start stamping until the whole surface is covered with small squares. I try as much as possible to interchange the grouts between the stones in each row. When the whole board is done. The paste may dry and some days later lightly sanded to get rid of sharp ridges. Then I paint the whole surface with black acrylic paint. I make sure that all groves between the stones are covered with paint. When the black paint is dry I dry brush it with gray paint to simulate the granite color of the stones and then here and there with some green hues for some moss and weeds between the stones. Finally, I give the board an oak frame and varnish the whole board with mate varnish. Now I make the blocks. The keel of the cross section will stand on three piles of blocks. Gluing the piles: Lining up the piles on the display board and making the spacers. Determine the positions of the side piles. I use a spirit level to check if the model is standing horizontally. Gluing the side staples. Finishing the side staples. They are bolted together with small brass plates and brass nails which are blackened. The wood of all bocks is stained with pepper color wood stain and mate varnished. The display board, completed with name plates. and the model standing on its seat. My local modeling friends were the first to see and to judge the completed cross section of the fishing smack during our monthly meeting. During next days I will make some detail pictures of the cross section and load them in the gallery section.
  18. G.L.
    Thank you very much for your kind words, Moab.
  19. G.L.
    That is the kind of ship model that I like. I register to follow.
  20. G.L.
    Nice job at the gun. And also at the house, I guess that it is something you don't have to do every year 😁.
  21. G.L.
    Kortes, Your blocks are impeccable.
  22. G.L.
    Electricity and I are not a good match, Carl. I also consider that two lighting navigation lamps wouldn't give a lot of added value to the model. It would be difficult to hide the wires from that position anyway.
  23. G.L.
    22.3 Blocks and lines. At each side of the hound pieces is a block attached. A double sheaves block at the starboard side for the boom topping lift and a triple sheaves block for the hoisting line for the cod end of the trawl. At the bottom the hoisting line is going through a double sheave block, hooked on a deck ring at the port side and I lead the loose end through the sheave post, wind it a couple of times around the capstan and belay it on the sheave post. Due to the lack of a boom on the model, I hook the lower block on a deck ring besides the bow of the boat and belay the loose end on the pin rail. To make the use of the strange hook at the mast above the shrouds clear. I attach a three sheaves bock on it. That block is meant to guide the main sail halyard.
  24. G.L.
    22.2 Gratings The two compartments at both sides of the middle passageway are net- and rope stores. The ;trawl warp - and rope fender storage in the center of the cross section are provided with gratings; to be consequent I make also gratings for those forward stores.
  25. G.L.
    22. All kinds of stuff The cross section like it is described in the practicum is now finished. Before considering my model as completely finished, I will add some small things to give it a more personal touch. 22.1 Navigation lighting Navigation lights are shown on several pictures of smacks, so I will make an attempt to make also a starboard and port light. I am not a metal specialist like a lot of you, so it will be a bit improvising. I hope the imperfections of the lights won't catch the eye to much in the whole of the model. The different parts, I will use a disused red and green led light (they will not be able to light). The led light in its brass housing. The roof of the lamp soldered on top of it. The excesses will be filed off. The starboard and the port light. The navlight boxes are made of ice-lolly sticks. I attach them at the shrouds with copper clamps. The port navigation light:

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