Chuck
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Everything posted by Chuck
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The plastic stuff in kits is treated and thats why it wont unravel. Same is true for the natural stuff. But not all laid rope will unravel. If properly hardened after laying it up it certainly wont unravel. My rope wont unravel at all. If you use a sharp...sharp blade this is especially true. Using a dull blade may make the ends start to frizz up a bit. My larger ropes may unravel a little bit, but not too much. I have since created a method to ensure that doesnt happen. The smaller sizes will not unravel at all....The key is getting the opposing tensions in balance. If you dont wind the three strands initially enough times then it is most likely the final rope will unravel. That is usually the mistake that is made. When I first started making rope, that was the case. But I kept increasing the amount of twist in the initial strands until I was doing it four times as much. Each time I increased it....the rope unraveled less. Also remember not to over twist all three strands together. That will cause kinking in the final rope. You must through trial and error strike the correct balance in the tension. Chuck -
Nope....its definitely wrong...I dont understand how they can print those wrong every time.... Download these and print them out. Remember to make the page scaling "none" in adobe before you print it out. That is what they keep doing wrong. That is why it always prints too small. Chuck framingplan1.pdf framingplan2.pdf framingplan3.pdf framingplan4.pdf sternframingsyren.pdf framingplan5.pdf framingplan6.pdf
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18th CENTURARY LONGBOAT - WHAT FLAG TO SHOW?
Chuck replied to samueljr's topic in Wood ship model kits
Thats a tough question Sam. I searched but in the end just left it out of the kit because I couldnt find a definative answer. But the typical jack would be safe. Chuck -
Looking great Sam. I love how this little kit offers so much diversity. There is so much you can do with it. Yours is especially unique and really a treat to look at. Chuck
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Please do join the group and dont hesitate to ask me any questions. It is a fun project. Chuck
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Basically the planking....<ost folks will buy the kit because its not expensive and small and that alone doe not make it a beginner kit. But often times they think that. Planking a small boat hull like that is much harder than planking a larger hull. The bends and angles required make spiling and shaping the planking a must. This is something that beginner builders can not fudge. Yes the hull is painted but you will see see the run of the planks inboard and using such thin planking material it doesnt leave much room for sanding out errors. Filling any gaps may also be seen inboard. Basically it is the proper planking expertise that makes it an advanced kit. Especially at the small 1/4" scale. That being said. Its a great teaching tool to learn proper planking and with only a few strakes per side they can be ripped off and done over many times. For example, My local club is building the Pinnace kit and we are using it to teach more advanced planking techniques. Some of our members have ripped off the planks three and four times. You will learn how to properly shape a garboard strake and where to place its forward end. Dont let it scare you. Give it a try but if you have never planked a small boat like this before, you should expect some new things to pop up while doing so. Again...read all of the logs on this site as suggested. Chuck
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Thats a loaded question...It really depends on the original thread brand and material you use. In addition...it will also depend on how tightly you lay up the rope. There are many factors. The best way is to just find a bunch of thread and experiment. Experiment with various timing to control the tightness of the lay. Chuck
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Fantastic looking photos...wonderful stuff. Merry Christmas!!! Chuck
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To all who knew Eddie I am very sad to report that Eddie passed away earlier in December. Please join me in sadly offering his family our condolences. Eddie was a wonderful model builder and will be missed on MSW. Rest in Peace Eddie!!! Chuck
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looks good but go thinner with the cap rail....a little more oatboard and a little more inboard. The thinner the better. Chuck
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Its coming together very well. Fine work.
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Dont buy the paint set...just buy the three colors you mentioned there....
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Yes you can get a good spray-on matte fixative but it can be expensive. A good alternative would be to use any hairspray you can find. Its cheaper and basically the same stuff. If you find one with a UV protection it will actually help prevent the ink from fading. This is what I use. Spray a light coat first and then apply to more heavier coats. But dont soak it as the ink will probably spread. Chuck
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Looking good Augie. Should you choose another treenail pattern remember to still go small. Anything larger than a #78 drill bit would probably be too large and historically inaccurate. Although it is a matter of personal taste. Going with Bob's pattern is also not accurate so its just a matter of going with what you like. You dont want the model to look like it has the measles. But thats a long way off. Try a few tests on some scrap first. Chuck
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Thats really coming together Rusty, Very clean and the wood colors look very good. Chuck
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Almost there Ryland. That looks very good. You have achieved a nice run of those planks. Chuck
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Augie, The planking is looking really good. One thing to watch is when you are ready to place the second layer of the wales (both of them) on top of the first layer. If your planking run isnt identical at the stern where the planks run off the hull, dont just follow that first layer with the wales. Make some adjustments on one side or the other so the wales are even port to starboard. Should they not be even it will cause you some problems when trying to get the quarter galleries built and the PE decorations on. The same is true at the bow when it comes time to make the headrails much later. Try and measure down from the cap rail on both sides after taking the measurements from the plans. You have a bit of wiggle room there if you need to adjust them to make them even. Just giving you something else to worry about!!!! and I hope you find it helpful. Chuck
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That is better and I did the same by making the sheer curve more towards the middle. That is more in line with teh 1750's and 60's. The straighter sheer is more in line with those boats made much later. Chuck
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Yes you do....But not just at the stern..The whole bulwark should be lowered by about 1/16" give-or-take. Its hard to tell from your photos though. I would look at the other logs and my prototype and do a comparison. Its hard to tell at this point with the tops of the frames flush with the planking. Having not started the planking at the top to establish the proper sheer line I think the one you ended up with is quite arbitrary. This is what caused the issue. You can see how much of the frames remained above the planking on the prototype....the transom sticks up much higher. But its not just your stern..Its whole length needs to be shorter. This is a good opportunity to draw a nice graceful curve of a sheer line and then file down to it. Chuck
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Very nice and clean build. Well done!!
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I am not sure where he got his but you can them pretty small at a place that sells them for eyeglasses. Just do a google search and you find some real tiny screws. smaller even than are used typically for glasses.
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That is quite a change from the sticks and strings. I have never modeled a steel hull so I will watch with interest. From what I understand these types of models are all about the paintwork ans finishing. Jim H (captainPugwash) is very skilled at that sort of thing if you need some tips with new materials. Chuck
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That looks very god Chris. The painting of the trailboard and the figurehead are especially good and blend in very well with the wood.
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Boy that is looking really sharp. Well done!!
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