Chuck

That looks so well done. Congrats!!! I do hope you enjoyed the project from start to finish. Cant wait to see the Syren start taking shape.

Now that I see it at that angle...its still tough to be sure. But eaxamine the curve of that lower counter as it should mimic the bottom of the transom. The upper counter should be a consistant width when done. One thing I notice is that most folks dont create enough of a curve on the top of the lower counter. It should be curved as such to make the upper counter consistent in height. One way to check this is to place a copy of the transom from the plans....with all the carvings etc. Attach it to the stern frames so you can better see that curve at the top edge of what will become the upper counter. This will than leave an area between the lower counter and the transom for you to examine. It should be the same height and have a consistent curve to it to match that template. Hope that makes sense. I placed some green lines on your image to show the curve I think it should look like. Chuck

Looks good. Make sure you sand the tops of the sills for the stern windows level. They shouldn't slope down or up....flat and level. Otherwise the model is looking really good. Wonderful work. Try not to rush through the planking. I know that is going to be tough because mid way through...you will want it to be done. Two-thirds done and you will starting mumbling all sorts of things.

Staples has them....any office supply store basically.

Heres a nice review for folks....... Scratch Building the Yacht Utrecht Instructions and Plans by Gilbert McArdle Distributed by: Sea Watch Books, LLC, Florence, Oregon www.seawatchbooks.com, seawatchbooks@gmail.com There is no doubt that Gilbert McArdle has become one of the authorities of our time on the construction of models representing Seventeenth and early Eighteenth Century vessels. Mr. McArdle’s latest book outlines the ........... ​Open the PDF below to read the full two page review. It really gives you a thorough description if you are considering the project!! Scratch Building Utrecht.pdf Chuck

Folks have added additional steps to help reduce the surface texture. It will be a few more years I suspect. Check out this article. http://www.kraftwurx.com/forum/25-how-to/572-smoothing-3d-printed-models Chuck

I have seen better although they are slightly larger....1:24 scale. But they are crazy expensive and I dont know what machine he uses

That is certainly a disappointment. My guess is that the per piece price is still pretty high for that quality as well. Better to make a few good brass masters and then have them professionally cast. Chuck

Great to see it finally arrived...remember .....have fun with the project. Chuck

Take a look at the build log underway for this and you will be able to tell. Its all scratch with no timbering sets.

Wonderful Work Alex!!!

Yupp...something looks really off there. Either they printed your plans wrong or the templates are way off. They probably didnt set the page scaling to "none" when they printed them. I would measure the scale bar on the plans. If that is correct then simply copy that and use it. This probabloy would mean that all of your templates are printed incorrectly. Send me a PM and I can email you a pdf of the templates. But just give me your email adress. I wont have time to send it until tomorrow though. Chuck

I had a great time....My wife and daughter did as well. In that photo that was posted showing those 5 handsome fellows.... Ryland is on the left...I am next to him...(must cut back on the pasta)..then there is Barry, JimL , and TomR from my local New Jersey club. We really enjoyed it and I will be giving a short description of the conference at my club meeting tonight. Getting in to see the Hunley was just fascinating. You really got up close to the tank she is still soaking in. The sub wll be in that bath for another ten years. Chuck

That doesnt seem right.....I would give them a call and ask for a new one... Chuck

Nope...we really dont have a timeline but I can tell you that the plans are all drafted and the model prototype is currently under construction. If you are are a member of the guild, we will be providing updates on teh status of these projects in the Journal and in the newsletter. But we arent finished announcing our new programs yet. There is one more that we will be announcing very soon. So stay tuned. Greg Herbert is heading up teh other program so I will let him announce that one. The Board is very excited and passionate about the new direction the Guild is going in. Should anyone have a question, dont hesitate to ask me. Chuck

The NRG is excited to launch our latest program focusing on advancing the art of ship modeling through research. The Ship Model Grant Program was developed to provide ship modelers of all levels easy access to fully developed modeling projects. We are seeking NRG members who can develop a thoroughly researched set of plans and accompanying monograph for smaller vessels and projects. The details of the Grant program are provided below. After work has been completed for all of the materials, the NRG will print the plans and offer them to ship modeling community at large. The accompanying monograph will be produced in electronic format and supplied as a CD along with the plans. To kick off the program, the NRG has selected the first project. This first NRG Monograph will contain the plans for a plank-on-bulkhead model of the Hudson River Sloop “First Effort” built in 1830 (pictured above). We have selected this project to set a standard for the size and scope of the projects intended for Grant program. If you are an NRG member who would like to work with the NRG to develop other projects like this, read the details below and submit a proposal. Should you have any questions about the program please contact Chuck Passaro at cpassaro@verizon.net. The NRG Grant Program rules and details can also be downloaded from our website. Visit www.thenrg.org today. The NRG Ship Model Project Grant Program Request for Proposals: The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is issuing a request for proposals for consideration of funding projects which advance the art of ship modeling through research. Eligibility: The Nautical Research Guild Grant Program is open to NRG members only. Project Description: The NRG will award $750 to $2500 for individual projects that provide original research and plans for small ship modeling projects. In addition, up to 10% of each sale will be awarded for the exclusive rights to publish and sell the completed published work in either print or electronic format. Grant amounts will be determined by the NRG Board of Directors based on the size and scope of the accepted proposal. Finished monographs and plans will be offered and branded by the NRG and copyrights will be maintained by the NRG. All credit will be given to the author. Each project proposed must be model ship related with research obtained from primary or secondary sources. Projects are to be for scratch built/semi-scratch built models. Monographs must contain a section on history and research as well as a “how-to” for the model builder. The monograph must also be accompanied with a set of plans to allow building of the project, produced electronically with the intention of being printed by the NRG for sale. Project Specifications: Plank on bulkhead, plank on frame, and solid hull are all acceptable building methods. Other building methods will be reviewed by the Board for appropriateness. The recipient must include plans to build the model and a corresponding monograph of 70 to 100 pages depending on the scope of the subject matter, with bibliography of all sources used. Preference will be given to smaller projects: For example small cutters, launches, brigs, sloops, tugs, cross section models, battle stations, dioramas etc. The NRG is NOT looking for larger vessels such as frigates, ship of the line, battleships etc. Projects should take the average builder between 3 to 8 months to complete. Projects can be directed toward the beginner, intermediate or advanced ship modelers. The monograph must be delivered in MS word format and the plans delivered in PDF format. Grant awards will be administered in installments with the dates and amounts of payment determined by the NRG, and final payment being made upon delivery and review of the project by the NRG Board. The NRG reserves the right to stop further payments and advancement of the project upon assessing the author’s progress. Failure to complete the project in a timely manner may result in the cancellation of the project by the Board without further payment. All proposals must be sent to : Nautical Research Guild, 237 S Lincoln St, Westmont, IL 60559 or by email to info@thenauticalresearchguild.org Information Required at the Time of Submission: Proposal must include applicant Name, Address, Phone and E-Mail address. Project Abstract: Applicants must submit an abstract of less than 200 words describing the proposed project, including what level of builder it will be directed towards. Identify how it will enhance the knowledge and skill of the model builder. Approach: List all equipment and materials required to complete the project. Milestone Schedule: An activity schedule should be submitted for the duration of your research for project delivery. Starting with month one and concluding with the project delivery date. Expect to give the Board frequent updates based on this schedule (i.e. monthly, quarterly etc.) Grant projects must NOT take the applicant longer than 14 months to complete once accepted. Cost Summary: Detail all costs to be incurred for the project up to its delivery, including but not limited to equipment purchases, materials, information technology needs and software, travel, and research. Prepare your budget carefully and make it as detailed as possible.

Looking very nice. I just made a batch of 1.5 MM blocks...Special order for a buddy of mine. Thank god I didnt have to make that many. Chuck

Go to my site... http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/miniature-rope.php Here you will see all of the sizes. Thanks

See you there.....I just hope Fort Sumpter opens up before the Conference. Chuck

Thanks. I will eventually carry both the gray and the brown in addition to the black. It seems as though it is a personal preference thing. Thats fine with me. Anyone who wishes something that they dont see. Dont hesitate to contact me. Chuck

I have only had reason to cut 1/32" thick planks. I usually use thicker planks on a model and scrape and sand them in place. Chuck

Thank you gentlemen!!! I will be be away next week at the NRG conference so I am afraid I probably wont be as responsive next week. I really appreciate the support and business. I am now experimenting with possible ways to make deadeyes as well. It may fail miserably but what the heck. I get all kinds of crazy ideas that pop into my head at night. Drives my wife crazy. Chuck

Thinner blades will bend and warp and cause deflection as the saw works its way through the sheet. This creates an inconsistent thickness when you cut your planks. I only use thin blades like that when cutting sheets that are 1/32" thick or 1/16" thick. For all thicker sheets I will go up to a .032 blade kerf. Yes... you do loose some wood with each cut but you will have fewer bad planks and it ends up being a wash. It is also super important to make sure you have a squared up sheet before you start. If the edge that is against the fence is a little wavy initially, it will take several cuts to even it out. Chuck

I wish I could...I usually buy whatever I can find on EBAY cheaply. I dont remember the brands off-hand. If after it is shipped, I dont like th e look of it.....I usually give it to my fishing buddies. I think Ed Tosti uses a particular brand if I remember correctly. You may want to reach out to him or do a search of his build log of the 1:60 HMS Naiad 1797 The stuff he uses looks really nice. Chuck

Looks great....Before you add the lintels...make sure you fill any cracks between the sills and the bulkheads. Its easier to do that now. Sand them smooth as if preparing them for paint now. the lintels will make it harder as your space is limited even with a good sanding stick. With the lintels...its not as crucial to fill the gaps so precisely as it will be on the underside and not seen. But that doesnt mean you shouldnt give it a shot. Chuck