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EJ_L
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Everything posted by EJ_L
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Indeed, strange they may be, but they do look great! Nice start to the boat as well. The weathering looks good and will look even better once the hull is weathered up a bit also. -
Welcome back! Life sometimes does get in the way of model building, as do other hobbies. With a finite number of hours in a day, often there is just not enough room for all we wish to do. Good plan with prepping as much as you can to stain at once. That does help to cut down on the down time waiting for the stains to cure and dry. Mast work looks good from what I can see. If anyone questions any rough spots just say it was an emergency repair and the mast had to be hand hewn in a hurry. As for your spars, while I certainly am no expert, I would bet that the lower spar would be smaller than the upper. if your main spar is 5/16" then I think a lower spar at 3/16 would look appropriate. To know for certain, I would say you would need to know what the diameter of that spar in real life is. Then you could scale it down to fit your model. Hopefully someone can either back up my thoughts or say with more authority on the subject.
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- gunboat
- model shipways
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I don't know yet. Honestly, that has been a bare spot that has long bothered me. With an enclosed QG, they would not have decoration as it would not be seen. With them open, I do not know. I'm sketching some different designs for the other bare places for fill ins. I'm taking a lot of creative free will in these designs as none of the more "traditional" decorative designs fit the spaces this kit left me with. With some luck, I might just make something that looks okay...
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Channels are going up. I’m holding off on installing the chains on the mizzenmast channel. I’m working on creating some additional scroll work to fit in these spaces and need access below this channel. I’m not sure yet to the how and what these decorations will look like or even if this is a good idea but, I’m gonna try anyway!
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HMS ROYAL KATHERINE 1664 by Doris - 1/55 - CARD
EJ_L replied to DORIS's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
Excellent addition to the model. Those stands compliment her very well.- 1,035 replies
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- royal katherine
- ship of the line
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Haha!! I can't believe I typed that! When I posted this I had been talking to my wife about different flags as she had come into the office while I was looking at historical flags from different countries. Union jack must have just been on my mind! I will edit that to simply say ensign. Thanks for the heads up! 🙄 🤣
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Another weekend has come and gone and with it some more work is completed. Finished rigging the guns and I also built the bracing for the taffrail and ensign. I’ve started the work on the channels and should have some pictures of that work later in the week.
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Michael, the clever thinking was not my own but, learned from you back on the Vasa. I have learned a lot from you on your builds as well as from others on here and need to be more conscience of making sure the credit goes where it is deserved.
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The bulkhead under the forecastle was much like those towards the stern for the officers quarters. They provided compartmentalized space for private rooms or storage or to get out of the weather. I cannot say for certain if this feature was on SR but, I have seen it on many similar ships and figured it may well have been there. With any bulkhead on a gun deck, they could easily be removed by the carpenter and his mates when the decks were cleared for action. As you said, the sailors would need to have clear space for easy movement during a fight so the cabin bulkheads were designed to be held in place with pins that could be removed when needed.
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Thank you all! This has truly been a great learning experience in not only the construction of these ships but, also in the history, design and practices of the French ship building compared to other countries. And then there is learning how to represent that in model form. This truly is a great hobby! Yes, I use an extra thick CA glue that I love. It beads up nicely out of the bottle which makes it easy to apply directly from the bottle or on a pin head. It does not bleed though as much as the thin stuff will nor does it run everywhere. Although, I still manage to glue pieces to my fingers far more often than I would like. I do keep the thin CA on hand as well as it work great when I need to cover something in adhesive. I used it a lot when carving if the wood is brittle. I could cover the piece in the thin CA which soaks into the wood and then carve and sand through it while it helps to hold the wood together.
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Thank you all for the nice comments and likes as well as following along. So I meant to post these pictures earlier but, it slipped my mind till now. Here are a few pics of how I make the rope coils. Place a a piece of tape sticky side up. Hold the rope down to the tape and begin to wind the rope around the tweezer. While coiling, press the rope down onto the tape so that the tape holds it in place. Sometimes the rope will keep coming off the tape. If this happens, use some glue to secure what has been cooled before moving on. Once the coil is complete, place a tiny amount of CA glue on the face to hold the rope together. Remove from the tape and flip over. There should be two exposed rope ends. One will be at the end of the coil and the other should be at the center with a short length over the top of the coil. If everything looks okay, set it in place, lining up the end of the coil with the cut off end of the rigging line. Thats it! Follow up tip: Pictured is a counter clockwise coil. Simply reverse the direction you wrap the rope to make a clockwise coil for the opposite side.
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The rigging is shaping up nicely. Smart to simply tape the line ends in place till later. Being able to make those adjustments will help greatly in keeping tensions set correctly. I would not worry too much about the dead eyes not being even. I know a lot of fuss gets made over this but, in practice they would not always be perfectly even. There would always be some differences as adjustments were made to keep tensions on the shrouds. Aesthetically an even run looks more pleasing to the eye but, reality would more often than not, prove this to be unrealistic. In my opinion, yours do not look bad at all.
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I've had a similar experience with a "missing" plan sheet. After searching everywhere I could conceivably image it could be it turned out that it was on the reverse side of the plan sheet tacked to my board. 🙄 The yards on her are indeed huge! My RL will be the third model that will be of that size. The admiral keeps joking that soon I will have enough of these ships in cases that they could be stacked up to make one of the missing walls in the basement. She may be joking but, I have sketched out a few ways to incorporate the cases into the wall design so they would be visible from both sides. She may end up regretting making that joke.
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- Royal Louis
- Finished
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Last of the forecastle rails are in place along with the ship’s bell. Time to rig the remaining cannons.
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This is a new one for me. Looking forward to learning something new!
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- santa lucia
- panart
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It may be a simple design but, it looks like a maintenance nightmare. Storms and gunfire probably made replacing these a constant chore. Still, they will make for a cool detail that is not often seen on models.
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Welcome to MSW!
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Ah, the temptations of new models... I'm not very good at resisting that call as is evident by the multiple builds I maintain. Still, you never want to anger the admiral. She can cast you ashore and leave you stranded with no ship or hope for one. I've learned that if I keep mine happy, she lets me use the good ship Visa to buy more ship stuff which in turn keeps me happy. Okay, I've said the correct things. Now I can say that I am looking forward to seeing you start that build! All that PE will really make it a spectacular model! I will be watching for that log as the Pearl finishes up.
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I will echo Chris in saying that yes, you have chosen the right path. Most "instructions" for model ships are as you said, more guide than traditional instruction. There are many parts that the instructions may say to install early but, can easily wait till much further. THe guns and port lids are a prime example. Yes, the fully rigged guns need to go in place before the ships masting and rig is assembled but, many builders will leave "dummy" cannon and the lids off till right before the rigging or even till after that stage and close to the end. Along those lines of thought, separate sub assemblies are a great help especially when you get to the masts and rig. The more complete any item is, mast, yards, etc. with blocks and leads already installed before it is on the ship, the easier that stage will become. Similar to what you are already doing with the guns and anchors. It also helps to keep things moving while you wait on the mail.
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- victory
- billing boats
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More railings in place. One more to go on the forecastle then time to rig the last of the cannons.
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Heinrich, thank you for that information. I knew that my gratings were not correct after looking at some other builds from people with far more knowledge than I. I do not know though if I will change the design on these or not. It will be a lot of work and some expense I was not planning on as I will need to buy some better wood than what I currently have on hand. Fortunately, I am at a point in the build where nothing major is impacted by the changes so now would be the time to make them. I will give it some thought. Many of these little problems are reasons why I am moving more and more towards scratch building. While there is nothing wrong with kits, I find myself frustrated when I see things that I know are wrong and want to change either too late in the build or the kit structure becomes vastly prohibiting on making those changes. With the kits, I rely too much on the given information and not enough on my own research until often times it is too late. With scratch building, one has to plan out the entire build to ensure everything is correct and are not misled or restricted by the limits of the kit. This is one of the reasons I have been working so much on SR lately and not as much time on Royal Louis. There are changes to that kit I ma wanting make, as well as correcting many errors I have made in this one. That has greatly slowed down forward progress as I continue to plan and change plans as issues arise. Ah the joys and challenges of model ship building!
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This looks very interesting and I am looking forward to seeing how it turns out. My experience with using expandable foam at work is that it may not fully expand to fill all the space evenly. Many times there can be holes and gaps. They can always be filled in easily enough though if any appear. Hopefully the oil base you applied will act as a good bond breaker but if not, most foams clean up with some effort and solvent.
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- heller
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Tom, no templates just measuring and filing to shape. Here is how I make them. Cut a piece of stock to length. Measure out where the cross beam will go and where the groove at the top will be. Use the saw to score a line for the top groove. Using a triangular file, I deepen the scored line then I switch to a triangular micro file for additional clean up and shaping. Once the groove is complete, I then start filing down the four top sides. Clean up and sand as needed. Drill two holes for the top and bottom of the sheave. Connect and smooth out the opening for the sheave hole. Next take a dowel and score a line around it for the pulley. Use a triangular file to deepen and widen the groove. Finish the pulley by using a round micro file to finish shaping and smoothing the pulley. Cut the pulley off the stock dowel and file the ends down smooth and to fit within the sheave hole. Finally insert into the sheave hole and the post is ready for finishing. I typically wait till I have several items ready before applying the sealer. If the post is to be crossed for use in a bitt, the groove for the cross piece would now be cut and filed smooth. This particular post is for the forecastle head rail and assembly will be different so i have only marked where the rail will intersect and not cut it out.
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