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gjdale

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Everything posted by gjdale

  1. Very nicely done Anja. I would never have picked the difference. And being a gentleman, I wouldn't have told even if I had been able to pick it.
  2. Sjors, With your lovely wife moderating this site and reading everything you post, you are either very brave or very...........now, what's the word I'm looking for here? I'm sure someone will help me out!
  3. Then there's "Taylor's Irish Red", illustrated in a later photo of pump blanks! Nice work on the pumps Mark. Gotta love the mill for repeatability.
  4. Nice work on the molding Timmo - looks at least as good as the brass, and will probably be easier to paint too! That beer sounds interesting - not sure that I'd manage more than one if serious work in the shipyard is required.
  5. Hi Robbyn, Futtock staves are horizontal wooden battens that are secured to the shrouds below the tops, roughly at the level of the hounds. The futtock shrouds are secured to these. (The futtock shrouds are the bottom ends of your topmast shrouds if you like - they secure the lower deadeyes for the topmast shrouds).
  6. Hi Augie, I don't put myself forward as any sort of expert, but that was the information I gathered in preparing my own rigging. I was guided primarily by Longridge's book in this regard, and I'm pretty sure Antscherl says something similar in TFFM vol 4. The advice is also repeated in my Warrior Practicum, and the primary source behind that is Steel. So, I guess you could say it was common practice. I seem to recall reading on someone else's log (might have been Blue Ensign), that the reason was to allow these shrouds a greater degree of adjustment to suit the point of sailing, but I couldn't swear to that. No further work in my own shipyard this weekend I'm afraid. The honey-do list was rather long this week, and I had to spend a fair bit of time helping the Admiral to plan our forthcoming (September) O/S holiday. Oh well, there's always next weekend.........
  7. Robbyn, Great work! To answer your questions, The ratlines should continue up to the futtock staves (which should be installed first). These will also help to keep the shrouds "spread" a little. What are you doing wrong? I suggest that for the first and last shroud on each row, the clove hitch shoul be tied so that the "tails" point inwards. This will give you a neater finish when you snip the ends off. Also, the ratlines don't usually go across all of the shrouds for the first (lower) six rows or the last (upper) six rows. The first and last shrouds are omitted - can't remember the reason. Also, another tip (if I haven't given it to you already). Tie every fourth ratline row first, then come back and do the ones half way between, then come back and do the remaining. This will help prevent your shrouds from developing an hour glass shape. Good luck!
  8. Hi Meredith, Forgive me if this is "sucking eggs" territory, but just wanted to check that you are using the draw plate in the correct way. The stock should be fed into the draw plate from the "back" of the plate (ie the unnumbered side). Is the way you are using it? If not, you may find better results trying this.
  9. Great job Mick. She looks superb! I can't believe how quickly you've completed this model. Excellent work! A shame that you can't post a build of your Tram here as well
  10. Hi Aldo, Great work so far. This looks to be be quite a challenge, which I'm absolutely sure you'll master in no time. Good to see you back and posting again my friend.
  11. Thanks Aldo, Not an innovation my friend, merely an adaptation. Nice to see you back and active on the forum again. I hope to see more if your Peggy Sue as well as Triton soon.
  12. Well done on the fix Sjors. Like I said, the hardest part is making the decision to actually do it. And as Danny said, you'll find it much easier to do so on the next mistake (and the one after, and the one after, ............)
  13. Congrats on the weight loss Kevin, you must really be feeling healthier now. And by the way, nice rear end! The ship! I meant the ship!!!
  14. Thank you Ed for taking the time and trouble to re-post this wonderful log. It is a source of ideas and inspiration for Victory builders in particular, but also to many others. I have personally learned a great deal from this log and it remains one of my key "reference" resources.
  15. Hi Robbyn, Re your twisting deadeye. I noticed while working on mine that I had to be careful about not over tightening the lanyards as they were being reeved through the deadeyes. If you tighten up too much after reeving through the first hole, it has a tendency to pull on the deadeye and make it slip around (ie it wants to bring those two deadeye holes closer together and relieve some of the tension). I found that if I kept the tension fairly loose until all the holes had been reeved, then went back and tightened each section a little at a time, then the problem was avoided. Not sure if my description here will make any sense for you, but I hope you can follow my drift.
  16. Ouch Mark! I'm reaching for the liquid pain killer just reading about this!!! What a timely reminder about safety in the workshop. Power tools are great and fun to use - as long as we remember basic safety and don't get complacent. I was wondering, looking at your set up, why you didn't clamp the piece and move the tool over the wood, instead of the other way around?
  17. Hi Robin, Unfortunately, I didn't join MSW until well into the build - the first page of the log shows where I was at at the time. Consequently I had never heard of a build log and took no pictures. Then of course, whe. I did start a build log, all of that information went up I cyber smoke when we lost the site in the great valentines day crash of 2013. What is posted here is pretty much it I'm afraid. Very happy to answer any question though - either post them here or send me a PM.
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