gjdale

Thanks Aldo, Not an innovation my friend, merely an adaptation. Nice to see you back and active on the forum again. I hope to see more if your Peggy Sue as well as Triton soon.

Well done on the fix Sjors. Like I said, the hardest part is making the decision to actually do it. And as Danny said, you'll find it much easier to do so on the next mistake (and the one after, and the one after, ............)

Congratulations Karl. Like many others, I look forward to Part 3.

Congrats on the weight loss Kevin, you must really be feeling healthier now. And by the way, nice rear end! The ship! I meant the ship!!!

Thank you Ed for taking the time and trouble to re-post this wonderful log. It is a source of ideas and inspiration for Victory builders in particular, but also to many others. I have personally learned a great deal from this log and it remains one of my key "reference" resources.

Hi Robbyn, Re your twisting deadeye. I noticed while working on mine that I had to be careful about not over tightening the lanyards as they were being reeved through the deadeyes. If you tighten up too much after reeving through the first hole, it has a tendency to pull on the deadeye and make it slip around (ie it wants to bring those two deadeye holes closer together and relieve some of the tension). I found that if I kept the tension fairly loose until all the holes had been reeved, then went back and tightened each section a little at a time, then the problem was avoided. Not sure if my description here will make any sense for you, but I hope you can follow my drift.

Nice save John

Ouch Mark! I'm reaching for the liquid pain killer just reading about this!!! What a timely reminder about safety in the workshop. Power tools are great and fun to use - as long as we remember basic safety and don't get complacent. I was wondering, looking at your set up, why you didn't clamp the piece and move the tool over the wood, instead of the other way around?

Hi Robin, Unfortunately, I didn't join MSW until well into the build - the first page of the log shows where I was at at the time. Consequently I had never heard of a build log and took no pictures. Then of course, whe. I did start a build log, all of that information went up I cyber smoke when we lost the site in the great valentines day crash of 2013. What is posted here is pretty much it I'm afraid. Very happy to answer any question though - either post them here or send me a PM.

Well played Sir! Perseverance wins out in the end Andy.

Welcome home Anja. Thank you to both of you for taking so many pictures for me.

Shame about the mast Andy. On the other hand, it's been a most entertaining discussion on the English language!!!

Nice work Danny. The panels look great.

Nice gratings Rusty, and thanks also for the "how to" explanation - takes the mystery and "fear factor" out it.

Hi Danny, Here's a link to Mike's Tools. http://www.mikestools.com/

Looking VERY nice there David!

And as my dear mother used to remind me, the difference between friends and family is that we get to choose our friends! (Still havent worked out if she was giving me a hint....). Hope your family are also friends Augie. Have a great time and we'll look forward to more updates on your return.

John, You're standing into danger again. Much closer and we'll have to introduce him to that other popular book "Let Stalk Strine". That's right up there with the Drop Bears! Oh, nice masts Andy!

Thanks Brian, Augie, Andy, Keith, Ben and Mark for your encouragement. Mark - I had previously read Chucks post on this but had forgotten about it. Thanks for reminding me - that looks like a method that might work for me, so Ive saved it this time. Just need to get the mill bits now - oh dear, more toys to buy!

Hi all, It seems to have been a while since I posted an update, and I'm afraid I don't have much to show for what seems to have been a fair amount of effort over the last couple of weekends. I decided to take a little break from the rigging process as I wanted to experiment with making blocks, and I also wanted to have another go at making more ship's boats from scratch. First up though, because my mill motor died when I was making the block tumbler, I had to wait for a new motor to arrive from the US (I highly recommend Mike's Tools by the way, as a source for Sherline Lathes, Mills, accessories and components. Good prices, excellent customer service, and relatively speedy delivery - no association, just a very satisfied repeat customer). Anyway, the new motor arrived on Friday so spent Friday evening installing that - not too difficult, even for a neophyte like me! The mill is now fully operational again. I've been umhing and ahhing over making blocks, and a recent post by Janos inspired me to have a go. When it came to methods though, there are so many out there that it gets confusing. In the end I settled on trying the method described by EdT in his Victory log (part 15 for anyone looking for the reference). My first issue was making an appropriate scraper to form the grooves for the sheave holes and the straps. I haven't done much in the way of making scrapers before, and I'm sure I'm doing something wrong as I'm not very satisfied with the results. I have two issues here, and I'd be grateful if any of you can offer some further advice. The first issue is marking out the scraper blade (I'm just using an old Exacto blade for stock) - how do you mark it out accurately for cutting? The second issue is the cutting itself. I can manage the rough shape, but none of my files seem to be small enough to finesse the final shapes. Any advice? Anyway, this was all about testing the process and not achieving final results. For this purpose, I was just using some left over kit-supplied walnut stock, and was trying to make some 4mm single sheave blocks - about as small as I think I'll be able to manage (eventually). So, having made some rough grooves on all four sides, I followed Ed's advice and drilled holes to designate the top and bottom of each block in the strip. To do this I wanted to use the mill so that I could take advantage of the calibrated hand wheels to position the holes accurately. Before I could do that, I needed to make a jig to hold the stock and provide a sacrificial surface to drill into. After some head scratching, I came up with the idea of making a "tooling plate" from some scrap MDF. I used the Sherline aluminium tooling plate as a template to drill some holes to take some retaining screws. I gave the plate some trim on two sides to provide something to wedge the stock against, and then used the Sherline tooling plate with some clamps to hold it in place. Sounds complicated, but a picture tells a thousand words as they say. Here's the set-up, which worked quite well for the purpose: Once these holes were drilled, the next step was to rotate the stock 90 degrees and drill the sheave holes. This is where it all came unstuck. I must have either miscalculated the distances, or simply didn't allow for some distance between blocks, but I failed spectacularly to achieve the aim, which was that the sheave holes would all lie in pairs between the top/bottom holes. Oh well, back to the drawing board on that one! I mentioned that I've also been playing with another ship's boat. Actually, I'm re-making the 34ft launch. I decided to have a crack at this using some methods from my Warrior practicum (Vol 5). Why? Because this provides a complete set of drawings for everything I need to do this, plus an explanation and photo-essay for guidance. The drawings are provided in both 3/16" (1:64) scale and 1/8" (1:96) scale. I figured all I need do was re-scale the drawings from the 1:96 set and use the appropriate timber dimensions. I had prepared for this over a year ago when I bought some timber from Jeff at Hobby Mill (lovely timber too!). So, all set. What could possibly go wrong? The first step was to make a building board and a hull plug, using the patterns for the waterline lifts. Here's the build board, with pattern attached ready for cutting out: Here's the four lifts cut out and ready to be glued up: Here's the plug with all lifts glued up - the dowel is simply to aid in aligning the lifts: And finally, here's the plug sanded to shape (primarily using the Dremel with sanding drum), along with the completed build board: To tell the truth, I had to have two goes at the plug - I was a bit too enthusiastic sanding the first one So next steps - keel for the Launch, and re-think the block making. Not altogether sure whether I will persist with the block making. The Block Tumbler I made a couple of weeks back did such a good job, that the kit-supplied blocks may well do the job yet . Still, it's good to experiment.

Outstanding, as always Karl.

Nice to see more progress on your lovely Atlanta Toni, even if it did involve some re-work (which, I might add, is actually re-assuring for we lesser mortals ). The side-by-side photo is a terrific one for giving a feel for the sizes.

Nicely done Andy. Of course, with such a great resource as TFFM, you will no doubt find that the more you "pick", the more you will "choose"!

Looks like you've got plenty to keep you occupied Meredith

Welcome back Meredith. Sorry to hear of your medical problems, but glad that everything seems to be okay now. Congrats too on the new job - hope it works out well for you. Nice to see your Syren started, and I'm guessing we'll be seeing one or two others started shortly too! Re your staining issue, I suspect that the high humidity you've had has been a major factor. Good plan to leave it all to dry out and cure for a few days. I don't know of any remedies for the humidity, but someone with far greater knowledge than I might chime in.