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gjdale

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Everything posted by gjdale

  1. Welcome back Andy. Hmmmm....... Sailors and hotel bars.............from my experience, I guess it will take a couple of days for you to dry out before you'll be under the legal limit to work on the build!
  2. Hi John, I have to agree with Daniel (Dafi) - cannonballs only, not grenades as far as I know. Your plank bending "machine" seems to be working. Personally, I have only used a steam iron on pre-soaked timber, but your method looks very good. I've seen others use this with great success - you can just vary the diameter of the tin can for different radius bends. Note also demonborger's comment re the upper deck (poop deck) and placing guns. I think I've already given you the heads-up on this issue. Looks like you're really getting into it now. Keep up the great work.
  3. Good choice Daveor, It looks to be a really nice kit. There will be no shortage of advice and guidance available from some skilled and knowledgable folks here too. Good luck with your build and I'll look forward to seeing your build log once you start.
  4. Thanks for dropping by Lawrence and for your very kind words. I've been quietly following your build too, and must say you're doing a fine job yourself.
  5. Okay, late again! Dang, this time zone difference makes life hard at times. But I'm here now Robbyn, propping up the bar with Mark in the corner and waiting for Sjors to get up for more popcorn! Hope you enjoy the build - I'm sure you'll do an excellent job with it.
  6. Let me join the chorus of congratulations Ed. A beautiful model indeed, and your log has been such an inspiration to so many of us. I look forward to the remainder of the posts in this log, and eagerly await publication of Vol 2. Thanks again for allowing us to share this journey with you.
  7. Brave decision Robbyn, but the right one. I applaud your courage and determination. As one who has already been down the "major re-work" path, I can assure you it is worth the effort. The hardest part of the process is making the decision to do it, and it seems you've already done that. It all gets easier from here on. Enjoy your longboat diversion in the meantime.
  8. That's odd. I just went back there using the link I provided and the prices are all there. They are included in the description alongside each model/kit - in pounds, euros, and US $. Might be worth having another look.
  9. Gulfmedic1, Try this link for OcCre kits (trams, trains, and buggies): http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/occre-specialist.html
  10. Daveor, Just be aware that the Pegasus is essentially an upgraded version of the Fly (as I understand it). In modelling, as with anything else, you tend to get what you pay for. In the end, the choice has to match your budget as well as your desires!
  11. That is the submariner's version of a longboat isn't it Kevin?
  12. Hi Daveor, The Model Expo kits certainly get good reviews from the folks here who have built them, and the Syren is a particularly nice model with excellent instructions by our very own Chuck Passaro (MSW site administrator). There are many fine build logs of this, but I recommend you take a look at Augie's log. I should imagine you could add sails if you really wanted to, and I'm sure Chuck could provide advice. A similar size ship would be the Brig Badger by Caldercraft/Jotika. This brand is one of the better kit manufacturers going around. Again, several good build logs here for you to review. Another brand you might look at is Victory Models. This is a subdivision of Amati and is essentially their "premium" range. They do a nice version of HMS Pegasus. Once again, take a look at some of the build logs here to see what's possible with this kit. (Have a look at builds by Blue Ensign and Realworkingsailor). In the end, you need to choose a model that excites you. Good luck, and be sure to start a build log here once you've made a decision.
  13. Great to see you've started the third section Karl. We are in for another treat I see!
  14. Wise move Sjors. It comes to us all at some point. The smart ones know when to put it away for a while and come back with a renewed enthusiasm and vigour to the build. Last time I did that, it took six years to re-start. Having a second build to play with is probably a better option! Of course, this could all be just a ruse on your part - an excuse to put off doing the ratlines! :D Now, put the scalpel on the table, keep your hands where we can see them, and step away from the ship Sir! I said step away from the ship Sir!!!
  15. Hi Gil, How nice to hear from you. I wasn't expecting to see you around much for a few months and yet here you are. Thanks so much for your very kind comments. Yes, I do like to experiment and try different ways of doing things - it's all part of the hobby for me. Sometimes though, it does distract me for rather too long from the actual build! I really must get back to rigging those yards soon. But then again, Chuck has just posted some more info on making blocks with a milling machine - I've just gotta give this a try......... And besides, if I put things off long enough, you'll be back in the shipyard to continue leading the way for me. I've learnt so much from your log - I think it has become the "gold standard" among Victory kit builders. In the meantime, I hope you enjoy your summer boating adventure.
  16. Great work Augie. I agree with B.E. - Syren does make a very attractive model, particularly when treated with the care and diligence that you have so obviously applied.
  17. Andy, I seem to have unintentionally opened a can of worms in the middle of your build log. My apologies for that. Your shrouds look great regardless of any academic discussion. As John (Jim Lad) says.
  18. Hi Andy, Didn't mean to send you into a flat spin. Just thought that if you caught it early, it wouldn't be much of a re-do if you chose. Anyway, it's a minor detail that is hard to see once the deadeye lanyards are finished off, even if you are looking for it. Your shrouds still look great! Augie - sometimes in life, you just get lucky!
  19. Thanks for the heads-up Kurt. That explains why it's been so hard to find over here lately. Time to switch to Acrylics I feel. I think I'll go down the Windsor & Newton path myself. I think it was Chuck who advised on a few suitable colour names for our purposes, and being Artists' supplies, I would hope they won't suffer the same fate!
  20. Nice job Andy! I'm going to have to investigate that Acrylic Matte Medium. One thing you might like to check at this early stage with your shrouds (and this is being a little nit-picky) is the direction they take around the deadeye and which side the "tail" of the shroud finishes. I haven't got the references in front of me but if memory serves me correctly, when viewed from outboard, the shroud should pass around the deadeye in a clockwise direction, cross over itself, and then finish (the tail that is) on the right of the shroud. That means that on the starboard side, the tails will finish on the fore side of the shroud, and on the port side they will finish on the aft side. I hope I've got that right and haven't confused you. Happy to be corrected if I've got it wrong.
  21. Good to see you back Marc. Some more nice details added I see. You certainly are making some nice improvements to the kit here.
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