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Baker

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Everything posted by Baker

  1. A proud Patton in front of a Ft 17 Building the hull. Everything goes together smoothly. The small plastic parts are sometimes a bit brittle, so careful cutting is needed. And started on the wheel assembly The inside is pre-painted, This works easier later The groove for the idler wheel is too narrow (I know from experience of previous models) . So I make this wider Thanks for following
  2. My first FT 17models are from matchbox. These came together with the Char B1 as a kit. RPM came later, meanwhile my Ft 17 family has grown. Excel, to remember g(gebouwd, build) bd (bouwdoos, kit) number Model origin user rebuild in era status
  3. Welcome to build an American 6 ton tank. Scale 1/72 from the Polish company RPM General info (wikipedia). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M1917_light_tank (This tank is roughly a fairly exact copy of the French FT17.) We build a smoke tank. Actually this is a normal 6 ton tank with smoke equipment. Probably only one model was built in 1924. I cannot find the RPM website. Fortunately there is Henk of Holland's website. If you want to find info about a military model at 1/72. This is the place to be. https://henk.fox3000.com/index2.htm https://henk.fox3000.com/Rpm.htm The only time I've seen a real FT17 was on a road trip in Finland. In the Parola tank museum https://www.panssarimuseo.fi/en/ The box, plan and content Start
  4. Very nice work. Good idea to replace the deadeyes.
  5. Thanks. The WW2 Italy corner is becoming a little overcrowded Thanks. I once built 60 of these models a year. Thanks Thanks. Not for sale. The unfortunate one who is going to inherit this. Will have a lot of work to pack and move all of this.
  6. After all these Bitburgers. Time for finishing the model. A wash with diluted matte black (matte black, 50% water, 50% ipa) And some pencil here and there. Ready Numbered and registered. Italian number 37 total number 1421 The Italian corner (almost full) Thanks for following this build. Next project : a US 6 ton "smoke tank" from 1924
  7. As i have zero combat experience, i can only agree with you both. My only experience is a one NATO exercise in Germany ( sept. 1983) and 2 weeks in camp vogelsang (in winter, brrrr cold 🥶) Continue with the Autoblinda (google translate translates "car blind" haha) The rail from the kit has already been used elsewhere. This one comes from the part box The base : wooden plate, plaster and the rail. The rail is pushed in the plaster. Painted dark grey Model and base painted and added some rust Dry brushed with sand. Next post is finishing the model
  8. I once had more than 100 kits in stock. now about 40. the cabinets with finished models, more than 1400, are starting to fill up ...
  9. Continue with the deadeyes. Started a topic in masting, rigging and sails first. And, continued with the "ironwork" around the deadeyes and started the chains Ironwork deadeyes, work in progress. this is not really the activity I enjoy doing most. Learned soldering at school a long time ago (Didn't like it then and still don't like it now 😂) The chains. Each chain consists of 3 links. For the time being 1 link will be added to each deadeye. The length of each chain will be different. So most of the links will have a different length. The deadeyes are in a groove in the side channel of the channel, they are not attached to the channel itself. I will probably have to make the masts (lower part) first. Or temporarily fix the deadeyes with a wooden strip that will be removed later (dont now yet) According to the dimensions of 1 archaeological find, the metal around the deadeye is slightly thinner in diameter than that of the chains. (The wire of my chain is 0.1mm too thick.) Quality control on strength (looks good 👍) Thanks for following
  10. Well done. But noncommittal comments. If these are the rigging instructions from revell, then they are wrong. Have a look at the attached photos.
  11. Indeed. But if I were an Italian in an Autoblinda. Somewhere on a Yugoslavian railway, where partisans can attack you at any moment. Then I keep that sand for emergencies only.
  12. The width of the channels and the exact position of the deadeyes - schrouds has already been tested. That's not going to be the problem anymore. For now I make the deadeyes first. Then probably the masts. The chains holding the deadeyes will all have different lengths. Will be fun
  13. progress Dry brushing with grey Added some extra detail. Cables. These served to operate the boxes (filled with sand) from inside the vehicle. This sand fell on the rails and provided better grip on the wheels in an emergency. Painted the wheels and other extras.
  14. Please, no apologies. Thanks for the constructive comments 👍. This is a very nice model. Have also seen pictures of it. And it was partly the inspiration for the color scheme on my Pelican
  15. Thanks Allen, 16th century channels looks a bit confusing. With or without a strip? There is little correct info. Some pictures from channels without the strip.
  16. Built the Soleyl Royal from Heller 35 years ago. The plastic masts are still standing. There is a lot of difference in quality of the plastic used. But with Revell, this shouldn't be a problem
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