FriedClams

Beautiful work Siggi. I very much like the pumps and I am always impressed with your crew figures - extraordinarily fine, especially at 1:48. Gary

Hello James. I’ve been checking out your log and I think your model is coming along very nice indeed. The detailed documentation you’re providing is going to be really helpful to other modelers of this kit. You are determined and working carefully and will end up with a great first model. Gary

Nice work Allen - she is looking sweet! I really like that wood tone with the white. It’s so clean and cheerful. Hand rails look great too. I must try your scraper method sometime. Scrapers are commonly used in furniture finishing and I can see where the technique would work nicely on fine wood modeling as well. Gary

Just read your log from the beginning Paul, and you're progressing nicely on this model. Bluejacket makes a great kit, but it still requires dedication and effort (just as you are doing) to produce a really fine model. First time builds are difficult, but going forward you will build confidence and I'm sure the end result will be beautiful. Keep at it and watch out for rolling knives. Gary

That's something I hadn't even considered, but it's a nice easy detail to add as the tires are not glued down. In fact I won't even need to untie them. Thanks Kurt. Hello Wefalck. Hello Keith. Thank you both for your comments. Yes the coal is for the galley stove as Keith has stated. The stove provides not only the means of cooking, but obviously it provides heat for the crew, the berths and also the wheelhouse. And New England winters can be quite cold, especially 100 years ago. The size of my scuttle is about 15” diameter (dictated by the tubing it was cut from) and is slightly larger than the 14” diameter of the Thomas Laughlin Co. coal scuttle that I used as a size reference. Of course that is the outside diameter of the deck flange and the actual usable opening would be smaller. I don't know how the coal was delivered – shoveled out of a cart, sacks? But the size of the scuttle doesn't strike me as being overly generous considering the material. The alternative would be through the wheelhouse and down what can only be considered a glorified ladder. It is interesting to think through how ordinary tasks were accomplished in a much different time. Thank you both again. Hello Bedford. Thanks for the very interesting reply. I am surprised that the tug pulls to port with no tow and to starboard with a tow. I would not have guessed that and it convinces me that even things that seem simply on the surface usually are not. It could very well be that the boats trawl in an arc or as you say a sweeping circle (actually, that vaguely rings a bell.) And boy that has to be fun to crew on a 1902 steam tug! Druxey, John, Bob, Paul, Richard and Allen - Thanks for the nice comments. Gary

Thanks to all for your wonderful comments. And thanks for the likes and to those watching quietly. Some Final Odds and Ends These boats almost universally used a 3 or 5 blade right-handed propeller in the 26” to 30” range. The prop I'm using scales to about 26” and is from Bluejacket Shipcrafters. I had intended to scratch my own, but I found this prop in my stash box and my inner lazy-slug voice talked me into using it. So I cleaned it up with file and sand paper. And then added some evidence of use. My understanding of prop walk is that the dynamics of a right handed propeller will hook the vessel to port as it moves forward. The effect is more pronounced in reverse but still evident going forward. So I have this question that I have found no definitive answer to. Is this prop walk the reason all these boats drag off the starboard side - to counter this hook to port? At least it's not adding further to the tendency to pull to port as it surely would if they were dragging off the port side. Or is this prop walk insignificant compared to the other forces involved here? What do you think? After looking at a couple of dozen rudders, I drew up this one. Prepared some bits and pieces. Then assembled. Acrylic paint and pigments are applied. Glued to the boat. I then prepared parts and pieces to assemble a coal scuttle. The scuttle diameter is approximately 5/16” or 15 scale inches. The lid is painted and held captive within the brass ring with a dab of epoxy. Holes for the bolts and lifting ring are drilled and the bits glued on. Scale 4” fuel fill deck plates are punched from brass shim stock and painted. The paint is mottled to suggest detail that isn't there. A engine cooling water discharge pipe is cut from brass tube and the end is reamed to reduce the pipe wall thickness. In the image below, all three of these items are shown; the scuttle, one of the fuel fill plates and the cooling water discharge. There also would have been a fresh water fill plate, generator cooling discharge and other items, but . . . Some time ago back on page #9 of this log, I built the Otter Boards for the boat. So it is time to hang them off winch chains. They are lightly glued to maintain their position. The hull is painted with acrylic Tamiya Hull Red (XF-9). I don't have a lot of Tamiya paint so I forget how nicely this paint lays down, how well it covers and how smoothly it brushes on. It's like painting with thin mayonnaise. The surface of the hull was then scraped and India ink/alcohol was washed on top. I then added a water line stain with thinned white acrylic. And then some sanding. I played around with simulating barnacles, but I was never really happy with my results to where I thought it added in a positive way to the model. So I'm leaving the hull in this pre-paint prep state where the marine crud has been mostly removed. I think this will work as the model will be displayed in dry dock in the process of getting new bottom paint. Here on the starboard side the bottom painting has begun. Old tires were often used as fenders on these boats and still are on modern F/Vs as well. I found some vinyl 1:48 tires on ebay that have hollow interiors and raised lettering. I put these tires in my portable drill and stripped off all the tread with a needle file. These tires were already black, but they were too black and shiny, so I re-painted them with my own dull charcoal mixture that looks more to scale. I then gave them a white acrylic wash. Because they are hollow, I was able to place a piece of blackened copper wire inside to form them into a slight out-of-round shape. The ropes wrap around a cleat and hang over the rail. A subtle rubber abrasion against the hull is added with pigment. I haven't decided yet how many of these tires to place on the model. Just a couple maybe – after all, it's not a tugboat. I guess I should add some rope abrasion to the rail as well. I've begun working on the diorama base, so in a couple of weeks I'll have one more posting to share with you. Thanks for taking a look. Be safe and stay well. Gary

Congratulations Chris - she turned out really great. Beautifully built model of a interesting vessel. Gary

Just catching up Ekis and I see you’ve made great progress on the village. This most recent structure has some very complicated facade detailing, lots of half-timbering. Looking very nice indeed! Gary

Terrific modeling as we have all come to expect Keith! I particularly like the recycled use of the disk tray - resourceful and clever. Gary

Wonderful work on the paddle wheel assembly Brian - looks terrific! Gary

Spectacular work! I’ve seen very few modelers who can successfully include this level of detail at so small a scale. And the fact that this sub-atomic modeling is also realistic is truly exceptional. Very nice! Good call - don’t cover up the magic. And I echo Marks’ comment that even pointed out, I don’t see the errors. Gary

Sweet work Ekis - very nice progress. Gary

Hello Richard, I’ve been reading your build log from the beginning off and on over the past few days and have just now caught up. To simply say that I’m impressed with your skill and craftsmanship would be a gross understatement. Your work is superb. The detailed upgrades and replacements you’ve made put the kit supplied parts to shame. I particularly like the windlass, gears, pawl and other mechanics. Great stuff. I’ll be watching for future updates. Gary

That’s wonderful Keith - so good to hear. Gary

Very nice job on the guns Keith - the truck carriages turned out great. I wasn’t aware of your stroke of a few years back, but it looks like you have made great progress in your recovery. The difference between the middle gun and your new guns is quite striking. Glad to know you have fought your way back and are clearly much improved. Looking forward to see how the sweeps go on. Gary

Welcome back Keith, if only for one day a week. Nice progress on the deck house and as always I look forward to your future updates. Gary

Eric, I completely agree with what Mr. L Fly has stated above. Your persistence in understanding and correcting the problems you’ve had with this kit is admirable. I’m happy to see that you didn’t surrendered and kept seeking solutions. Hopefully you will have enjoyment in its construction as you move forward. Very nice paint work on the figures by the way. Gary

She is a beautiful schooner Allen and you're hull construction and planking is very nice indeed. A great start on a handsome vessel. I will be watching for updates. Gary

Thank you Keith A and Keith B. Hi Ken, thanks for the nice words. No I don't cut them out as the carrier is helpful in locating the character. The horizontal rows of letters can be used as a reference for level against letters already placed or against the edge of a plank, etc. Holding the carrier by its edges allows for easy orientation vertically, horizontally and even in rotation. For example, after determining character spacing for the boat name displayed in an arc, I position a letter so its bottom center rests on the arc equidistant within its allotted space. I then place the point of a dressmakers' pin at that bottom center point (not really penetrating – just holding the placement.) This is now used as a pivot point and I rotate the carrier film until the letter orientation pleases my eye. I then place a finger somewhere on the film to keep it from shifting, let go of the pin and rub the letter down. After a few minutes messing around with these transfers, you'll have it down. I've seen people rub transfers on like they were using a pencil eraser, fast and unexacting. I've learned slow firm pressure, moving deliberately over the entire surface of the character produces the crispest results. Hope that helps. Hi Mark, Yes they are rather old school, but often - they're just the ticket. I understand that a few companies will now print custom color transfers of any text or software generated artwork. But last I checked, it is crazy prohibitively expensive. Thanks for stopping by. Gary

Yes I agree, multiple dilute washes can produce some very nice results and often gives the surface added depth as well. For me, weathering is always a trial and error exercise and adds much time to a build – but the process is fun. Thanks Wefalck. Hello Keith. Thanks for the nice comment. Here is a photo in the same light and similar angle that shows the whole boat. The stern is overexposed but otherwise not a bad image though a little noisy. It is a crop and I did compress the file for uploading, but there is a little zoom left in it. Thanks again Keith. Hi Allen – nice to have you looking in. The lettering is not peel and stick, but rather it transfers to the surface by rubbing them on. The transfers have a pressure activated adhesive and are attached to a carrier film that is peeled off once the letter is transferred. You simply position the film so the letter lands where you want it and then firmly rub the back side of the film over that letter. I use the convex side of a small spoon shaped dental tool to rub them on. In the photo below, I transferred the letter “B” to the copy paper background and as you can see that letter is now missing from the film. The letters are not a solid piece but rather a kind of toner, so only the portion of the letter that is rubbed gets transferred leaving behind the area that wasn't rubbed. Dry transfers adhere better to flat surfaces than to gloss surfaces, so a clear coat is needed when used on gloss. On my stern lettering, I can briskly rub the pad of my finger over the transfer and nothing happens. If I scrape it with my finger nail, it will remove that portion of the lettering. Before I am done I will likely cover the lettering with a thin flat coat and then soda blast it to remove any remaining sheen. My only experience with dry transfers is with those from Clover House but I assume transfers from other companies have the same basic characteristics. Also be aware that some clear coats can attack and dissolve dry transfers so experimentation is needed. A quick web search will reveal many sources of dry transfers in all sizes and colors. You might even be able to find some at a local craft store to try them out. I'm not a big fan of water slide decals as they stand proud of the surface and the edges can be difficult to disguise. I have seen modelers use decals very effectively, but whenever I have used them, I can always find some angle of light that betrays them. That is not an issue with dry transfers. Sorry about the wordy answer. Hello Chris. Yes I agree craft store paints due have limitations, but as you mentioned they worked out OK in this application. I saw a model once where a heavy layer of this craft paint was laid down and the modeler then chipped and scrapped chunks of it off here and there and then painted over that. So all the underlying damage telegraphed through the fresh new top coat in 3-D fashion. Very cool. Thanks for stopping by. Hi Mr. Storm. I'm glad you found my build and hope you find something useful here. Hello Richard. Thanks for stopping in to check out my build and for the kind words. Weathering is fun and often unpredictable, but I enjoy it. Hello James, glad you stopped in. I can eat my weight in fried clams. Druxey, Ekis, Paul, John and Jean-Paul - Thank you so much for your fine comments. I always appreciate them. And thanks to all for the likes and for looking in. Gary

Thanks to all for the wonderful comments and taking the time to make them. And thanks for the likes. Some Hull Paint Weeks have flown by and yet I have little progress to report. But here is a brief update on the model. Many of these boats were painted dark green above the water line and so my model will also be green. I began with a emerald green to which I incrementally added tiny amounts of real black until I had a sort of hunter/forest green. (I am always amazed how the slightest amount of black can totally overwhelm any color). I didn't want a green that leaned yellow, so I added a drop or three of purple because the color wheel tells me that it is the opposite of yellow. This gave me the base color I had in mind. The paint I'm using is inexpensive craft store acrylic and it has a sheen to it which will be gone by the end. The image below is over-exposed to better show the color. After the paint thoroughly dried, I scrapped the surface with the edge of a razor blade. Also, I drilled a series of shallow holes into the strapping that protects the hull from the otter boards. This is meant to represent the flat head screws that hold the strapping in place. Continuing with the weathering process, I went back and added brush swipes (here and there) of a darker value of the same green. I then washed the entire painted surface with a India ink/alcohol solution which visually softened the scrapped areas, lessened the contrast and dulled everything down. The alcohol in this wash makes this step a “one and done” application. It quickly softens the acrylic and any lingering or second brush strokes risks re-liquifying the paint and returning the surface back to a uniform color. Finally, I scrubbed it with brown pigment powder and then finger rubbed the entire surface. I also gave the hull strapping area some preliminary color, but more work needs to be done there once the otter boards get hung. The name and home port was placed on the boat. I made up a locating template in CAD to assist in placing the letters. Dry transfer lettering is applied. The stern looks like it could use a bit more wear. This final image was taken with direct lighting pointing at the hull from a low angle in attempt to show what the weathering looks like. In normal viewing the effect is less pronounced. Thanks for stopping by. Stay well. Gary

Very nice progress Vaddoc. And I like your chisel honing jig - very cool. Gary

Congratulations on completing Naparima Kevin - she looks great! Gary

The beautiful work continues. Your town is growing and looking great Ekis. So interesting and fun to follow. Gary

Capturing the essence and still makeable - that is difficult in larger scales - in 1:120, it's crazy hard, but you're managing quite nicely. You have nailed the shape and proportions of both cannon and carriage Keith. I look forward to seeing the carriages painted out and component bits added. Very small and very nice - the bottom photo says it all. Gary