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Tigersteve

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  1. Just a small update. I stropped these four blocks with hooks. Two 3/32" blocks for the staysail and jibsail halyard and two 1/8" blocks that will hook to the mast. The two hooks below will be stropped to 1/8" blocks with rope to hook to the backstay chainplates. Roughly four hours of work. Good practice making hooks. Oh, did I mention they are tiny? Steve
  2. If you can learn from my mistakes, I'm good with that! It would have worked also to remove it after the glue dried, but yes, I'm sure it was easier before it dried. Look forward to more updates and photos. It's a difficult kit. Take your time and redo what you're not happy with. Steve
  3. No surprises here, Erik. Another superb planking job. Well done! Steve
  4. I would suggest gently wiggling the bulkhead forward and aft while holding the keel to remove it. You need all the bulkheads square before planking. After you free the bulkhead you can gently file the excess glue and reset the bulkhead. I used Elmers wood glue throughout. It makes redoing things a lot easier. (I did this a lot!) Steve
  5. Looks like a solid start, Per. I will follow along if you don't mind. What a change in size from the longboat! Steve
  6. Congrats, Per! I have to agree with Erik. More photos needed to see the details. What's the next project? Steve
  7. Learning a lot from you, gentlemen. Erik, nice tutorial. You are helping a lot of folks. It's going to turn out great. Steve
  8. Thank you, gentlemen! I have all the plans for the rigging and layout running through my head. Needed to get a reference photo out here. I'm unsure if the rudder will be installed or stowed. I don't want to obscure the details inside the boat. The windlass handles will most likely be installed as well. The oars will need to be kept on the gallows bits. Yes, the ME line looks like a lost cause. I will use Syren rope for the Mayflower. Steve
  9. Paint touch up and refinishing some parts before stropping blocks, seizing line, and creating rope coils. In the meantime, I have been planning the layout of all parts inside and out of the boat. I took my first reference photo. All parts are not included yet. Steve
  10. I appreciate all the feedback and likes. I remade one chainplate/deadeye as I did not like how it was sitting higher than the other deadeye. Found a better way to make it by wrapping the wire around the deadeye and making the seam near the opening for the nail. Decision made about the rigging. I will present it partially rigged and lashed down (mast and oars on the gallows bits). Thank you, Cathead, for the encouragement! I think I was leaning towards this from the start. I unraveled the ME line. It seems useless for the tasks ahead. I picked up some poly/cotton thread. I'm going to get a spool of brown as well. Take a look at the line that came with the kit compared to the spools I purchased for about $1.50 each. Steve
  11. Nice! Your photos are clear. No worries. Have not forgotten about your surprise.(missing windlass) Glad you're enjoying rigging. I'm looking forward to mine as well. Steve
  12. This is really inpressive work! Steve
  13. Bowsprit step, deadeyes, chainplates installed. Needless to say it was difficult. You'll notice filled holes on the display base. No iron rings will be installed. Annoying lesson learned. Now to make a decision on the rigging: fully rigged (boat unlashed) or partially rigged with mast on the gallows bits along with oars and such stowed in the boat and on the bits (boat lashed to four eyehooks that would be installed on the base. Many rope coils will be needed. Any thoughts? Steve
  14. Thank you for the info. I will return the thread I bought and pick up some poly/cotton. I just about completed adding chainplates and deadeyes. I completed the iron rings for the display but didn't like the way they looked. Ended up filling the holes. I have to refinish it. I will post a photo of the stand and boat when that's compete. I have to adjust one deadeye. Steve
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