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Everything posted by Mirabell61
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Cutty Sark by NenadM
Mirabell61 replied to NenadM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1851 - 1900
Dear Nenad, so sorry to hear what you and the children are going throuh at the moment, my deepest sympathy is with you, I wish you to be strong in these rough Waters.. Nils- 4,152 replies
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beautiful work Ray, I`m also curious on the other boats your yard has an build order for, as you said.... The HMS Diana is a fantastic and well built model.. Nils
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congratulations to this beautiful frigate model Bob, ship and rigging look fantastic Nils
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fantastic work Igor, beautiful Details and I like the sails.. Nils
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Good work Danny, mounting the ribs after "unplugging" is a good alternative way, trust it is the cleaner way.... great looking Nils
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Thanks for your comment Popeye, yes the props come very Close, but I`ve followed the scaled Rating of the actual ship. Trust there will be something to do about it, but in combination with the final planking when it is on Nils
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- kaiser wilhelm der grosse
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Many thanks - David - John - Pete-, and all the "likes" David, correct, it looks warped in that view. The reason is that I followed the deck level outer contours on the frames skin..... (see the enclosed side view pic, without me changing anything on that stringer)... John, Thanks for your words... Pete, I`m happy that the propellers worked out OK. As mentioned before, the propcircles are slightly overlapping within that window outcut (stagered in shaftlength) Nils in side view, no "warp" in stringer overlapping of props
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HMS Alert 1777 by Jaekon Lee - 1/64
Mirabell61 replied to Jaekon Lee's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I love this model Lee, outstanding work... Nils -
Build log part 6 Today I built two prop tubes 6 mm diam. with glide bearing bushings at both ends to take up the propshafts made from 3 mm round Brass bar. some more stringers have been cut and most of them already brought on. Now the sub waterline streamline end claddings were shaped and dry fitted to place. For doing so I had to mount the shafts and the props to check out the clearance to the hull..... dry fit of props and shafts two more stringers will go to the port side note the fastening screws for the frames, I set them to the outside for better access now the propcircles go so close to the hull, there`s hardly 1/2 mm or less clearance the base can be tuned to every desired way for all round access the lines are extreme sharp and slim, just like the actual ship the portions above the upper stringer line ( line of Promenade deck) will be cut off, when the hull is removed from the base later on Nils
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Thanks for your nice complement Lee, Nils
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Thank you very much Popeye, Nils
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wishing you just as much fun and joy with this smaller Version Ed, would love to see it under way soon... Nils
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wonderful work Patrick, accurate and precise execution, must be extreme lightweight construction... Nils
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Many thanks to my fellow building mates Mark - Patrick - Robin - Ben- David, and all the "likes" Mark, I`m happy that you like and enjoy following the progress... Patrick, whilst doing the hull I can well imagine, what the actual designers had in mind way back in 1897 Robin thanks very much. I do hope that the original shaped ship`s magnified shape and lines can be brought into this model, I also love the shape of this early engineering and shipwright design Ben, I appreciate your nice comment, and hope you shall further enjoy...... David, I`m glad you like it. For determining the stringer notches I refer my own drawn frame plan. I`ve set a stringer at the outside frame contour at the crossing point of every horizontal deckline (see pic below) Nils how to determine stringer notches..... The bilge keels will be brought in later on...
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Starting with the stringers....... it takes appr. 2-3 hours to have the glue cured, before removing the pins and the pegs for the next glueing session I`ll have to move the screws that hold the frames more to the outside for having better access to the srews now, before further stringers are put on the relatively long and gentle bows do not bring too much tension on the on the wooden strips the tricky part of the job though will be the stern portion, maybe I shall use filler pieces to a certain degree.... Nils
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Many thanks Nenad and Dafi, and all the "Likes"..... Nenad, thats a nice comment , also wish you all the Magic on your CS, I saw you (like it..) are making so many Details by yourself Dafi, Thanks Dafi, glad you like it, and greetings from Glinde to Ludwigsburg Nils
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Thanks very much Pete, Nils
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Thanks Popeye, my other ship hulls are also built comprising stringers of pine wood. If the stringers follow the frame outer contours without dents and boils, the planking afterwards shall be an easy job to do. Also the stringers provide very useful hold for glueing and for for all the pegs and pins whilst planking. It is also much easier to do the sanding over the stringers and same time in some places the slightly overstanding odd-outer frame potions when fairing (before planking) I do single layer planking, 2mm thick and use mostly only white PA glue. I do`nt use screws or nails for planking Nils
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