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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. Hi again folks. It has been a while and I have been busy doing small parts in preparation to fit prior to starting to airbrush the model again. I have still to make and fit the chainplates, and the common service lifebuoy before I can paint but I think I should be able to start in the next week or two. I have added the rails to the cheek pieces. These are made from 0.5mm brass wire (stiffened); soldering these was not so difficult but drilling the holes in the top of the cheeks was a little daunting as they are only 1.2mm wide. They still need a little cleaning up and blackening (or etching) so that paint will stick. I have also made the cable stoppers. I forgot to add a scale, but these are only 11mm long but I was able to place a forelock pin and retaining chain on them; and the lever works. The second is half complete. Unfortunately, the old one, made by a club member, was too narrow so I had to redo them. The anchors are being made at the moment, so much of the forecastle equipment can be added when the airbrushing has been done. The mast partners still need to be drilled out to the mast size, but I am hoping the net effect is that the remaining parts of the central triangular shapes will look like wedges. Again I for the scale, but this is 12 mm x 13mm. I took the dimensions from the Arrow Class Gun Despatch Vessel plans I have from the NMM, as they were roughly the same size vessel and contemporary. I had several attempts at assembling the various parts but could not get a neat fit, so I cheated and resorted to inscribing them. cheers Pat
  2. Great to see you back Mark and I hope all remains well for you. Nice adaption to the tool - now that is thinking outside the box. Like Dan, I tried the flap wheels, but just could not consistently keep that "light touch' he mentions - may have to look at something similar to what you have done cheers Pat
  3. The metal work looks very good Maury. Ed Tosti shows a good technique for lining them all up in his book, cannot recall if he has it in his log also. he used a long pin through the gudgeons to align them, and if the pintles are then set straight all should be good. I think he does top and bottom first if I recall. Sorry if you were aware of this? cheers Pat
  4. Learning experiences don't stop do they, Danny? You're making rapid progress with the build. cheers Pat
  5. Darn, I am sorry I missed your log before this Maury; a very nice build of a non-typical subject. I will take some time to go back to the start and look more closely at your work. I hope you don't mind the last minute arrival of an audience? cheers Pat
  6. Bravissimo! Wunderbar! Very neat work Karl. WRT the photos (sorry not in German), I find if I upload them all first, then place the cursor in the position in the response, then click on the uploaded photo I want to include, it is placed where I want it. Therefore to get the right sequence, simply place cursor for the first and add photo (from the uploaded ones), then place the cursor under that one etc etc. I hope that helps? cheers Pat
  7. Hi Dan and Druxey, I am not sure if this applies to the merchant/commercial ships but in the 'grey funnel line' a breakwater was a larger structure, usually on the forecastle to 'break' larger waves/water coming over the bows etc. A spurnwater was smaller and used to divert/control water - one place was the raised metal plates near the 'devil plates' to guide water to the scuppers. Very nice detail Dan, this build is looking great. cheers Pat
  8. No images showing - is it just me? cheers Pat
  9. Very nice build Greg; quite the collection you have now. I can understand doing several of a similar type will make you feel stale; good idea to change tack for a while. cheers Pat
  10. Very nice Toni, can't help you directly with your question, but my current build (the 1850s, so much later) had stanchions with manropes and no nets. I am not sure if that was an option in your build era? cheers Pat
  11. She is looking great Dave with some very nice detail, you can be justifiably proud of your efforts mate. cheers Pat
  12. Very nice indeed Greg, she is looking great! cheers Pat
  13. Hi Jason, could it be that if they are equal stacks (same dimensions separated) that one axle set is for the front the other for the rear? Nice simple assembly jig you have set up. cheers Pat
  14. What a fantastic portfolio of maritime and related art. You certainly have a talent for this. cheers Pat
  15. Ditto, unfamiliar with the two tube version. I have also stopped using these and find it better to use an old carpenter's hack/trick. Push the pin through a thin piece of card that is shaped to suit the job, and use a tack hammer - keeps the fingers out of the road and you have more control Sorry, that does not help you with the tool, but might be worth considering? cheers Pat
  16. Nice looking hull Danny, hard to tell it is made of card. cheers Pat
  17. I would have thought chicory - isn't that used for smoking (meat etc) cheers Pat
  18. Hi all, I have become a real fan of resistance soldering due to the control you have over it. I have been able to do some intricate work without heat sinks by placing the probes, and the solder, in the right place, The solder will draw towards the heat, and by using differing melting point solders, able to achieve this. The biggest issue with PE is that if you are not carefull you can blow through it very quickly with excessive heat. The pissdales below still need cleaning up but as you can see these are only 4.5mm and the two end pieces (triangular) and the tubes were soldered in without heatsinks. cheers Pat
  19. Ditto, I have already gained so much from your Naiad books and this log; I look forward to my Christmas present (YA Vols 1 and 2) but, in particular, I am looking forward to the next volume on rigging. cheers Pat
  20. Hi Carl, I have been watching this 'additional' build of yours for a while, but thought I should comment on the great finish you have achieved. A lovely little model. As they look like an elaborate pipe, perhaps on a 'pipe stand' ? cheers Pat
  21. Third time lucky; it does look good Russ, even in 'rough' state. cheers Pat
  22. Glad to hear you were able to resolve it Danny; the model is looking very good. cheers Pat
  23. Thanks for the pointer Greg, you are absolutely right - I am even more impressed now! cheers Pat
  24. Hi Danny, you will get many conflicting results from google or similar searches as the direction was a design criteria and differed from ship Class to ship Class. Even to this day, ships have different propellor configurations to meet the design requirements, which are determined by the winning bidder/tender (and accepted by the Navy/Company) unless specifically detailed in the tender request/Contract. There are arguments offered about fuel economy versus maneuverability etc etc. for the different configurations. Also, as you have summised you need sufficient flow over the rudders to make them effective. Even with twin rudders, if they were not big enough, or incorrectly placed, they may not have been effective with a particular screw configuration. Unless you can find a contract or authoritative document that states what the configuration was, I would recommend the best way to determine this would be to look at any photos of the screws if any exist. The pitch of the blades (I think they were all fixed pitch in these days) will indicate which way they turned? For the central screw, I would not be surprised if it turned in the same direction as the motor output to minimise gearing and complication. It may also be that this screw was only used if extra/the highest speed was needed. That does not help you determine the direction, but apart from the pitch, if you know the motor/engine type, it may be possible to trace that back as well to find it's mechanical properties ..... I would be very surprised that a ship of this fame did not have propulsion information, including about the screws, published about it somewhere. cheers Pat
  25. Great finish Karl - you never disappoint with the quality of your work. cheers Pat
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