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BANYAN

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Everything posted by BANYAN

  1. BANYAN
    Second instalment. The rigging is slackened to allow the jeers to be lowered about half way down the mast, I seize the slings around the yard. I then prepare the parrel off the yard and fit it after the yard has been slung and raised a little closer to the tops. After tightening it I haul the completed yard. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    Hi folks, next instalment (if the site lets me - third attempt - seems Win 10 and Internet and this site causes BSODs - I have tried three different browsers!!!!). This posts starts with the yard fitted with the stirrups and hardware (from earlier posts). All blocks etc are prerigged with running loops, with the loop large enough to fit over the stirrups etc without causing damage etc. [edit: ignore the stain run on the stunsail boom, that wipes off very easy - I let its it for a while for the stain to penetrate the wood which is Huon Pine with natural oils, so it takes the stain a little time to penetrate] cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    It's the screw-ups we learn from Mark; thanks for posting them. At least with the "death star" recutting/shaping is a tad easier We also have to remember that the macro-photos also make things look worse than they really are to the eye. cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    My week is complete; thanks Glenn. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    Thanks John, appreciated. Last night I found two small blocks seized to the leading edge of each fore shroud (Main and Fore) in the AOTS running rigging overall drawing. Very faint lines which turned out to be (according to the AOTS) lead blocks for the tricing lines which ten led to the foremost shroud cleats for belaying. I'll check those two other reference you provided and decide from there. Many thanks mate, for this and pointing out my error (or should I blame the dockies? ). Pat
  6. BANYAN
    Good idea Greg. Do you have any concerns this tape may lift over time? cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Hi folks, a (major) error has been pointed out to me which at this stage I don't think I will try to fix as I need to complete this project. I point it out that any members who use this as a guide/refer to it are aware. The stunsail booms are cranked the wrong way They should be to the fore side of the yard not behind. My reasoning for not correcting it is that this is my first major build and I have learned so much from it, and there are a few other errors the keen eyed might pick (noticed too late) and fixing these would require a major effort/refit. I think that at some stage I will revisit Endeavour and I can then be aware of these in that, and future builds. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Nice to see you out of the hangar and back iin the dockyard Mike BTW I am working on a 1:1 build of a Airspeed oxford (WWII Trainer) also used by the NZAF I think. cheers Pat Edit: Sorry Mike typed SAAF instead of NZAF - both used the OxBox but my mind must have been elsewhere.
  9. BANYAN
    Hi Mark, please note I was not questioning the decoration of the railings, only the purpose of such an open area. The french loved their decoration (even more than the English I think?). Druxey's comment sure adds weight for a use of that open space, especially if the Captain's head was in one of the quarter galleries. cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    AS HSM pointed out, for fire fighting; they were filled with sand I believe. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Glenn, I think pigment based paints were still the only option back then (please check this though) so they were not a pure white. I use Admiralty paints which are acrylic, pigment based and designed from samples of paint taken from the Victory I think? They have a matt sheen finish. Perhaps another option for you to consider? cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    What would the purpose of those railing be for Mark? I don't see any ready access other then the windows, to gain entry for use as a recreation area - not saying your interpretation is incorrect, just seems strange? cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    The beauty of plastic/resin; the hull comes together so much faster than planking cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    Thanks Dave, but I have been at it for 12 years - very slow indeed. The pace has only picked up since I retired. cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    Thanks Jom. appreciate you looking in. We all aspire to better build quality; I have a fair bit to go to catch some of the great builder son this forum. cheers Pat.
  16. BANYAN
    Very nice Wefalck; I drool every time I visit your tools pages, engineering art! cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    Thanks for all of the comments and likes folks, much appreciated. Sure helps the run home! Sorry Sjors, the dockies flat out refused a further production run cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Very nice Alan, some great progress. I like the perspex/acrylic post holder concept. Even in the service we sometimes referred to the "pointy end" cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Well, you didn't disappoint with this week's instalment Glenn; once again up to your very high standards. Nice to have some of the original pieces available to model from which adds a lot to the authenticity - but, you still need the skills to execute it. regards Pat
  20. BANYAN
    Looking good Mark, be ready for final assembly before you know it. My best wishes to Janet for her surgery and a speedy recovery. regards Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Hi folks, well it is time for another well overdue update. Thanks all for looking in and the likes; much appreciate the interest and comments. Nice to see you back Mike. I have now trialled a couple of methods for fitting the yards in such a confined space. My solution is that after rigging the yard completely, I form the parrels off the model and hold them temporarily with the electronics micro-clips you can see in the photos below, lower the jeer blocks, fit the slings, fit the parrel then raise the yard into position.. i will post more detail when I get to this stage. I form most of the blocks etc, as shown below, off the yard then rig them into place when all are complete. I am at the stage of rigging the stirrups - I think the photos show the process with sufficient detail to not provide further comment here. When the stirrups are dry I will slide the blocks, tackle pendant, brace pendants etc into place (over the stirrups. When all are in place I will trim the draw rope and seizing, then reeve the foot rope. More photos of that stage to follow. The other photos show some of the detail of the process and final fit. cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    They're nice looking PE fitting Greg. This will make the build really pop. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Nice neat fit Dashi - looking very good. cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Perseverance and experimentation will find you a solution you can work with Ulises; I am sure you will overcome this mishap and it is great to see you haven't given up on it. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Keith depends on the scale and the modellers preference, or how real you want to keep it. For smaller scales I simply use a clove hitch and trim the ends with nail clippers where the curve allows you to get close, then a dab of 'flat' varnish to hold the hitch. For larger scales (1:48 and up) I might be tempted to form an eye and seize to the shroud at either end - but that is a lot of work and would depend on the level of actual practice you wish to achieve. other modellers may have a different approach, especially if building to museum quality. cheers Pat

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