BANYAN

Looking great Mark - all you have to do now is remember which mark is which cheers Pat

Hi David, I cheat (oops perhaps I shouldn't admit that ) - for POB kits (as per Hamilton's post) I cut the keel away on the backbone wood from the bottom of the rabbet edge down (after marking it out of course). I then remove sufficient wood from the rabbet area to allow for the total thickness of the planking (bevel the edge) to create the rabbet recess. After assembling the skeleton (backbone and bulkheads) and sometimes even after the hull planking, I fit a new keel which in effect creates the bottom edge of the rabbet for the planking. You can include the stern post and stem in this process also if you wish. If you do it after the planking, my trick is to dry fit the keel before planking and create a couple of alignment holes in the bulkheads which will align with pins in the top of the keel when they are finally fitted (just leave these holes clear when planking). For me this creates a very clean edge to the planking, and if using a good hardwood, provides a better finished keel (stem and stern posts etc if all are done) in which you can add the scarfs etc- and who can tell the difference if you don't tell them cheers Pat

She's coming on very nicely Ollie, some great detail appearing - now onto that wonderful task (chore?) of rigging You may wish to hire some of Danny's (Dan Vad - HMS Vulture Scratch Build) trained rigging spiders cheers Pat

Have fun making sawdust Mark; I'll be way back in those far stalls munching the pop-corn cheers Pat

Now Grant, that is an invitation to much innuendo - sure is better than looking at the south end of a north bound camel though! Oh by the way Rusty, very nice planking; the boxwood looks great! cheers Pat

Hi Ulises, nice build! WRT the planking, I once experienced a similar butt-shift pattern issue and in my case it was due to me using a central King plank. I proceeded to build the pattern down one side of the hatch opening then worked across the bottom and forgot about the central (king plank). I can't quite make out whether you are using this planking technique of a central king plank and then starting the shift from either side of this or not? May not be the cause of your issue but just in case cheers and good luck in resolving this. Pat

Hi Errol, that's a good start mate and I glad to hear that my build notes may be of assistance to you; there are also a couple of other very good builds happening which may assist you also (you have probably seen them). Are you planning on filling the bow with filler blocks faired to the dimensions of the first planking? If not, you may wish to consider extending the first layer planks to the bow (bend at the point where you currently finish) to allow a good contact area (for the glue) to hold these planks in place where they bend. Please feel free to PM if you need any clarifications to any of my posts. cheers and happy modelling (and a belated welcome to the Endeavour build club ) Pat

very nice work Remco - another display of your excellent craftsmanship. cheers Pat

That's an excellent boat coming along there Ollie. Good to see you up and running again mate. cheers Pat

Great job Danny, that is some quality joinery! Cheers Pat

Have not heard of them prior to this; is tick to the known quality of Swann Moreton which if bought in bulk and the unsterilised version, are reasonably cheap now.

Ah, I think I can even smell the sawdust from here Happy modelling Mark. cheers Pat

Oh boy - a bit more work - Maybe put her on her side careened a la repair at Cook Rover? Those studding booms look good! cheers Pat

Head down and a weatherly eye Ollie; good luck mate! cheers Pat

Coming along nicely Rusty - another fine build. Look forward to seeing your progress on this one. cheers Pat

Rich, try dry fitting the completed parts to the hull and marking out the positions of the gudgeons and pintles etc before final assembly. I use low tack clear tape to temporarily position the rudder in place using some small offcut wood to provide maintain the even spacing between the sternpost and rudder. Then lightly mark the positions (centrelines) of the metal straps for the gudgeons and pintles on the rudder and the hull (make the marks so that the straps, when fitted, will cover them). Remove the rudder and set to work - I usually do the hull first and then do another dry fit of the rudder just in case there are slight alignment changes resulting from the first step. To assist, it is easier to make the gudgeons and pintle sets and shape them for each position, ready for assembly - I also shape an offcut of wood to duplicate the rudder leading parts on which I shape the straps to better fit the actual rudder without damaging the rudder. If you are simulating the bolts, pre drill the straps as this makes the fixing to the actual rudder much easier, and provides a template where to drill the hull to receive the bolts. On the other hand, if your question is about making the gudgeons and pintles, have a quick search through the site as there have been several very good techniques discussed. I hope this helps a little. cheers Pat

Hooo boy Greg - frustrating, soul destroying and irksome all at the same time - a year's work down the drain (that is the hardest to take). Well the philosophical aspect is that what is done is done and you now just need to assess the damage and how to fix it with the least rework - I am assuming some parts are reusable? Good luck! Hopefully the moggy won't feature as a set of bagpipes as a result of this Pat

Ah, thanks Danny - that is an interesting line of thought - and a VERY practical one - this warrants a lot more thought and is possibly the answer to the riddle . cheers Pat

Very nice Danny - it seems you are a man on a mission - the updates are coming thick and fast cheers Pat

Hi Greg, some great progress mate - the end is in sight Those anchor stocks look really good! cheers Pat

Hi All and amany thanks for the feedback; I much appreciate all comment on these matters. I have only just restarted researching this one but I have had some interesting points to consider. WRT the presence or not of the boomkins; this debate has been held for some time and there is no way we will ever know for sure (unless someone invents time travel ) - I honestly do not know whom has the stronger argument for or against. Danny and Steve (please weigh in any time ), yes the replica does not have them but this is not conclusive evidence as to how the actual ship was rigged - just another interpretation - and, there is other evidence that suggests that they might have been fitted. Have a close look at an enhanced/enlarged drawing of the ship bow on by Parkinson (Endeavour's artist for the Australia voyage) and it suggests they were fitted. I have not satisfied myself completely on this matter, but based on that drawing I had previously decided to go that path and I am now committed As to working the anchor, yes I agree, the anchor cables can wrap around the bow etc - this still happens in modern warships - but you can fit a bridle to minimise/eliminate this.. When raising the anchor, the final part of the evolution is with the cable/anchor always straight up-and-down once the anchor is underfoot/aweigh. However, in getting the ship to this position may sometimes require hauling the anchor cable on an angle that may interfere with the boomkin shrouds. It is not the actual dropping/final recovery of the anchor cable lead that worries me but rather catting and preparing the anchor for dropping, and to a lesser extent how to manage the forward boomkin shroud to cater for the cable wrapping around the bow etc, and some of the working leads required in dropping/recovering the anchors. One line of thought I have seen is that the aft boomkin shroud may actually be a removable tackle worked from the deck which could be removed during anchor work (as part of preparing to drop anchor) as working the affected sails/rigging during the evolution and while at anchor is unnecessary and would not require the boomkin to be supported/stressed (shrouds could be removed?).

Thanks for the link Cristiano; I'll enjoy looking through your build. Greg, yep - it's a bit of a predicament and the solution you are considering (in your build log) sounds valid. I am going to look through some of my books on Seamanship and see what they have to offer - get back to you on my thoughts. cheers Pat

Thanks Wefalck, appreciate that great feedback. I'll place a call with one of the local artist supplies to discuss all this. cheers Pat

That is an incredibly well constructed wheel Danny. I was initially very impressed with the quality of the work - and then saw the 5 cent coin - wow - at that scale. I doff my hat Sir! cheers Pat

Hi Cristiano and thanks for looking in and your 'head's up' on the boomkin rigging. I have already done mine (haven't posted a photo yet, so I will need to have another look at this. Had not considered that as I am nowhere near rigging the anchors yet - many thanks for that and your positive comments on the build, they are much appreciated. That's a very nice build of yours also; I'll go back and have a good look through your log and see if I can't identify any other future pitfalls I might run into regards Pat