BANYAN

Great news Mark - so this should be a 'masterpiece' then Good to see your application towards 'only the best' and not the 'that'll do' - this should then make up into a wonderful model. cheers Pat

Thanks again Jud

Thanks Jud, between fixative and/or hairspray then should fix the print - now to sort the pasting and sealing Thanks Mark - appreciated - I will do a Google search. cheers Pat

Nah Ollie that a big shish-kabab - your shout for the marsh mellows Seriously though mate, your 'little' cutter is progressing very nicely - looks great with all the deck furniture and fitting in place. cheers Pat

Hi folks, I would welcome any advice on sealing or fixing photocopied print on paper (black toner), gluing to timber and then sealing it all. My hope is to glue a copy of a nautical chart to some wood as a backdrop but need some way of first 'fixing' the photocopy of the chart so the toner and/or the paper does not leach, mark or distort when glued and then sealed - last thing I need is a smudgy paper that is all lumpy due to the glue/gluing technique . One idea I have been given is to 'seal' the printed paper with a PVA/Water mixture but I am worried this will make the paper look 'mushy/lumpy' similar to when paper has been exposed to water and then dried. I have also read somewhere/or been told (probably by Chuck) that hairspray can act as a fixing agent for the print - if this works which type is best? Not by brand but rather whether an aerosol, water based etc etc? I hope to seal the lot with a coat of semi-gloss or matt varnish. Would a water based varnish work here? It would have to be a clear that does not yellow with age if possible. Thanks in advance for any suggestions. regards Pat

Great progress Mark, the makings of a very fine boat indeed! cheers Pat

Thanks all for looking in and the encouragement; I hope to have an update of the new jig in the not so distant future

Some very nice details there Danny, they really enhance the excellent quality of your build! cheers Pat

I have been experimenting with jigs for weaving the sock on the mouse for the stays and preventers and have almost got to a final solution. The first of the photos below shows an early attempt using plastic discs with slots cut (alternate slots to a deeper depth) - proved too flimsy and difficult to control. The second jig is working out OK but I made the mistake of setting up an even number of strands to weave around. The temporary fix is to skip one of the strands at the top, but this tends to leave a slightly more open weave along this axis. I have to re make this jig with a spacing that will permit an odd count. I have drilled an inner and an outer set of holes to facilitate weaving under/over but I have found at my scale (1:60) that this is too many strands; but, the additional holes will be useful for 1:48 builds. I hope the photos are self-evident. One of the photos shows a finished Mizzen stay, but I will probably redo this, as close examination shows the uneven weave along one axis (although partially hidden by the loop). These jig ideas are not original and I have borrowed ideas from several members build logs - thanks to all. Please note that the larger thread/strands shown are only to enhance the photo, and the alternate colour is to enhance the weave pattern in the photo - I am using a much smaller thread for the actual mouse at this scale of 1:60.

Hi John, I believe that to be one of the whiskers? And just to show we are making some progress The shiny coat is purely protective (shellac) which will be rubbed back as required to apply the copper plates and then paint the hull black. I am about to make a start on the deck planking.

Hi, a lot of modellers also use nail clippers for this job as the curved and bevelled cutting edges allow a close 'nip'. If you prefer scissors, then a trip to a nearby sewing supplier might be helpful as they could demo a few pair to you to ensure you get what you need? I also use a pair of shears (about 2.5 to 3 inches long I got from a sewing machine shop (also should be available from any sewing supplier) which are essentially a mini-version of shears. these fit the hand well, have a very sharp edge and a very point tip which allows me to get in close. cheers Pat

Beautiful work Karl, a great display of a master craftsman's work. cheers Pat

Hi Ollie, looks great mate! WRT the masts; all my furniture at home is Tassie oak with a clear finish. Over about 5 years this has yellowed to a honey colour but does show the grain. I am not sure what degree of grain you will show and whether this would be similar to the masts of the real vessel in appearance. If you are happy with the wood there might be another finish you could consider. I use Huon pine for my masts and have fond a stain made here in Australian (an outback recipe I t believe) called Bushman's stain. When applied to the Huon pine and finished with a dull cote finish (Testors) I think the colour is very similar to that of the masts of the Endeavour replica. I hope this is useful info for you? cheers Pat

Keith, I have found a guy (railroad modeller) whom used to do it but not sure he is still around. It's cheaper if you can do the artwork, but he also did that but it was on the condition that he fitted it into his own work (time a bit longer ) PM me for details. cheers Pat

Looks good Mark; some great progress on this mini-project- but it is too small to throw the popcorn at; especially from the back rows! cheers Pat

Hi Daniel, I hadn't looked in before and ever so sorry I hadn't - this is a stunning example of the application of experience and determination - absolutely beautiful diorama. It's made my day - thanks Pat

Hi Jay and BW; many thanks for the feed back. BW - I was almost at the same conclusion as you WRT to the ends where I see you settled on an eye. What period/year does your model represent please? Very nice seizing and serving of those pendants by the way. Jay, many thanks and that sort of confirms Parkins and Marquardt. I will have a look at an on-line copy of Falconer to see what he defines. I am currently using a single block to which the standing end of the tackle was fitted, with a single block at the running end, and which results in the falls being downward from the upper block to provide mechanical advantage. This is what Parkin shows, and both seem to think that for the mizzen burton pendant, the tackle was permanently rigged with the bottom block secured to an eyebolt on the mizzen channel, slightly inboard of and between the first and second shroud pairs. I now just need to determine where/how the falls were belayed My current leaning is towards a shroud cleat, or perhaps the closest belaying pin in the associated rail. Many thanks again, this is quite helpful.

Thanks Russ, I have decided to stay with Parkin as I know he researched fairly thoroughly and I am advised he and Karl had some great "debates' over some fittings etc such as the boomkins. I ma hoping that as they both agreed on this that they agreed their research on these I know they based most of their rigging on Steel anyway. cheers Pat

Well, well - I must say this surprises me - I thought there maybe someone out there who could help shed some light on the subject? In the end I looked at the drawings by Ray Parkin and his arrangement was very similar to that shown (in less detail) by Marquardt. I have decided to go with this even though according to Lees, this arrangement had been superceded by 1700. cheers Pat

Hi all, I am hoping that someone may be able to provide some definitive information to identify how the mizzen burton pendant would have been constructed in HM Bark Endeavour (1768). Hamilton raised this in his log at: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/3575-lower-mast-tackles-burton-pendantstackles-top-ropes/?hl=%2Bburton+%2Bpendants I am comfortable with Lee's description but Marquardt shows these as rigged in his drawing but without sufficient detail to see the construction of the pendant and the associated tackle/falls. I see in other logs the advice is to not show the tackle as it would have been rigged as required; however, there is contradictory advice on how the sling end of the pendants are constructed/made up for this period. Anderson also states that up until the end of the 17th century the pendants were constructed with a single block in the hanging end (about level with the carpathans); however, by 1700 this was replaced with a violin block. I have not found any other reference that provides additional information but note quite a few modellers recommend/used a simple eye or eyering. Is there a reference evidence for this? It has also been suggested that as these pendants were used for several tasks (including the tensioning of the shrouds etc) that a single block with two part tackle (permanently in place) is valid to allow the required tackle type to be raised aloft forming a double(?) tackle arrangement - sounds a bit un-seaman-like though?). Some Club members have suggested that the violin block was replaced with two individual blocks (single over double) stropped together in the end of the pendant in a type of reverse violin arrangement? Can anybody please provide any definitive information as to the configuration of the Burton pendant ends/construction for around 1768/1770. cheers Pat

That is so well detailed I am lost for words - excellent craftsmanship! How did you make the fine detail on the bolt heads? Are they individually filed/made? If so, you quality control and consistency is remarkable. cheers Pat

Good to see the model itself last night Rod; and I agree with Keith, that is an excellent effort for a first build - very clean and smooth finish to her. I think she will build into a very nice model mate. cheers Pat

Sorry to hear of the DF Ollie, get well soon we need you back in the shipyard! That's an unusual paint scheme for her. cheers Pat

Great work and superb detaining Remco; these details take the build from great to extraordinary! Always a pleasure to see what new details you have added. Just one very minor query - is the tag just a little large for the sail? cheers Pat

Very very nicer work (as usual) Gary; she is looking great. Always a pleasure to look in on your builds. cheers Pat