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BANYAN

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  1. BANYAN
    Thanks Eberhard, your advice is always most helpful. I used the sherline for turning the body of the pump with my duplicator (which needs some refinements for smaller work I found ). I really need to get my jewellers lathe up and running for this finer stuff - I have been lazy (well I could say too busy elsewhere) but I really need to do this sooner rather than later. I purchased some of that green pulley belting you recommended; now to set up the motor and get some decent attachments such as this double roller - excellent idea. cheers Pat
  2. BANYAN
    I am very much enjoying your updates Michael; a great display of masterful modelling. cheers Pat
  3. BANYAN
    Yep, you better make sure you keep the lady happy otherwise you may find your fine build de-masted cheers Pat
  4. BANYAN
    Hi again folks, no update for a while as I have been busy designing/drawing up the images for the PE I intend to use for the Victoria. this includes the chain plates, rigmaiden lanyards, patent purchase winches (halyard winches), handwheels for the downton pumps and winches, ventilation louvres and various brackets/straps. I have also made a start on the downton pumps - are these small? There were two of these (5") on the upper deck and another 7", probably engine driven, in the engine room There will be two suction plate assemblies between the pumps. I have managed to make three bodies that are relatively the same size (as best I could with my lathe) they are within .5 mm for height and diameter. With the spare, I experimented with the best way to fit the drive rod, onto which the round main turning handle, and the L shaped ancillary handle will fit. I need to find a better way to file the square onto one end of the rod (for the L handle) and I think I will do that before I cut it to length next time. i also need to try and make this outlet a bit smaller yet. This one is the spare as the bottom part of the barrel is slightly tapered and it should be straight. The photos show the spare pump with the rod, and the outlet spigot (two ended) with one end capped (as per the diagram as shown in the first photo). I have yet to clean this up properly but it is getting there; just need to add the round handle when they have been etched. The L handle will hang on the back of the engine room skylight. cheers Pat
  5. BANYAN
    You're making some rapid progress there Rob; all is looking very good. We'll have a clipper under a full 'fit' of sail before we know it.
  6. BANYAN
    Nice progress Vossiwolf. I would not be too concerned with the gloss look. I had the same issue with a matt black on Endeavour where under lights etc it looked very shiny but to the eye in even lighting looked 'flat' - amazing how light can play such tricks! cheers Pat
  7. BANYAN
    Another interesting subject matter you guys are building; look forward to seeing the combined efforts. cheers Pat
  8. BANYAN
    Mark, not sure but I think think you need the Pro (Platinum) version of TC to do that? cheers Pat
  9. BANYAN
    Very nice work Steven, amazing what you are producing with simple tools (and patience). cheers Pat
  10. BANYAN
    The running end would need to factor in both the working room (length) needed to work the line, but also to allow the full/maximum extension of the tackle etc. Therefore the length of the 'tail' would vary. cheers Pat
  11. BANYAN
    Hi, I have not modelled with card so please take my suggestion with a healthy dose of salt Have you tried making a jig onto which you can lay out and glue all the parts (waxed ply or the like) and using small pins and strips of wood as the form etc. With pins in the locations for the fall blocks etc would it be possible to layout the davit tackle/falls then use Mark's idea to set them? cheers Pat
  12. BANYAN
    Hi Jim (assuming Jim?), One of the best references for rigging ships in this period is Underhill "Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean carrier". In this Underhill shows the dead-eyes turned in (the act of seizing the standing rigging round the outer score of the dead-eye). For wire or natural cordage shrouds the tail is shown seized back onto the shroud; and, provides some drawings of how it was done. As this book is in copyright I can't post pics etc here. For reeving hearts, there were several ways and for these the tail of the lanyards were seized back on themselves. These were sometimes used on some stays etc (especially on the bowsprit) but not usually the shrouds. Perhaps this may the source of confusion? cheers Pat
  13. BANYAN
    Very nice workmanship Daniel. cheers Pat
  14. BANYAN
    That is a great painting mate. Amazing fact that although the number of sails was increased, the actual sail area was reduced. Do you know whether this was this intended to make sail handling easier, or reduce the strain on the masts or ...? cheers Pat
  15. BANYAN
    I am always impressed with the quality of your work Amalio. The workmanship is simply stunning! cheers Pat
  16. BANYAN
    Maybe small but still significant progress UV; the servings look good - tight and even. cheers Pat
  17. BANYAN
    That technique for the arches worked out well Steven. Love the sign cheers Pat
  18. BANYAN
    Sorry Rob, nope I didn't add sails (lazy ), but that technique should work well for you. cheers Pat
  19. BANYAN
    Looking good Steve. I found buying the Isop.. cheaper in bulk at Bunnings - although I lost out on all my savings by buying other stuff cheers Pat
  20. BANYAN
    The shrouds are looking good Rob. I used that technique (complete all mast by mast) with my Endeavour and found it worked well - only i worked from aft to forward as I found it gave me better access for rigging some of the stays etc. cheers Pat
  21. BANYAN
    Hi Rod, generally there was symmetry; however, as usual there are some exceptions to the rule :(. Do you have Marquardt's rigging plan? cheers Pat
  22. BANYAN
    Welcome back; I trust you have resolved all the issues so that you can concentrate on your build again. cheers Pat
  23. BANYAN
    Hi Rod, some nice progress there. WRT to common pin for leech, bunt lines etc. I had a similar issue to resolve. Discussion and consensus appears to be that these lines for top, and top-gallant sails; all go to same pins for fore mast, and again to the same pins (not the foremast ones) for the main mast. This is so the crew can grab those lines at the same time apparently as both sails would likely have been worked at the same time. Hope that makes sense? cheers Pat
  24. BANYAN
    Despite the trials and tribulations you seem to be coping very well Ben, the timbers all look well and truely aligned. cheers Pat
  25. BANYAN
    Very nice work on the metalwork, and the strop making - all turned out very nicely. Love the new arms for the third hand! cheers Pat

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