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Gregory
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Everything posted by Gregory
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I know how I will be making most of my lashings from now on.. How I used to make them is embarrassing.. -
One more thought.. I thought I read somewhere that NZ has lots of apples.. If you can get your hands on some good apple wood, it is excellent for modeling. Of course, it would also depend on your milling capabilities.
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Probably no more than the average storm drain around the world..😁
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( Alan, just saw your comments. Thanks for the additional input. ) Here is a quick quote from Lees regarding some of the belaying points in question.. Page 97 of my copy regarding topgallant bowlines and bowline bridals. After 1773 ( Melumpus ) they were still belayed to the fore top, but blocks that were used previously are omitted. So that is the change/improvement that would have been made since 1750 ( Royal Caroline ). As to the question of whether lines were belayed at the tops, this reference says they were, and there was no change in that regard between 1750 and 1785.
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The information I provided from Petersson was an effort to answer a question. There was no claim of reliability, just a possibility. However, a reply from Delf appears to add some credibility to the information. Which I have added to my fount of knowledge.. I will look forward to your input when you return from holiday and can check your references...
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What improvements do you think might be evident with regard to the original question regarding belaying points? Lees often quotes practices that didn't change much over periods of 35 years and more.
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Petersson does show some belaying on the tops. He shows some pins on the rail at the rear of the top and some cleats on the shrouds. Of course, Petersson is looking at a model, so there is no confirmation this was actual practice..
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FWIW, the wood of the model in your image is/was probably boxwood.. The color comes from 200+ years of aging.. An idea I had for covering exposed plywood edges was to use strips of veneer. Not sure what resources you have in NZ, but here in the US I would be looking in a woodworking store for something like this:
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Here is a drawing from Anatomy of The Ship - Royal Caroline.. It might be similar, and just angled into the deck..
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- Cheerful
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Earlier you said: The NMM plans and the Alert book is all I would have recommended. Perhaps when you have some photos, you can point out the problem you are having.
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Excellent! That would serve as final planking on any ship, with very little left to do in the way of finishing..
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What is the nature of your project? Plank on frame ? Plank on bulkhead ? Do you have any plans at all?
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You say CNC.. Is this a laser?
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when to rig the shrouds to the deadeyes.
Gregory replied to bobc622's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Not all of it, of course. and it would vary depending on the rig. I was thinking more about the cutter rig with the boom and gaff.. There are several lines that are easier set up but not tied off, before setting up all the standing rigging.. On a two or three mast ship it gets more complicated.. -
when to rig the shrouds to the deadeyes.
Gregory replied to bobc622's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Something I learned from you and Chuck is to set up as much of the running rigging as you can ( up to a point without tying off ) before permanently setting up the shrouds and stays. -
when to rig the shrouds to the deadeyes.
Gregory replied to bobc622's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I have heard once or twice about rigging the deadeyes before setting the shrouds, but I don't think I have seen it demonstrated. If it works for you, perhaps you could share your method. The shrouds are seized in pairs, alternating port and starboard, so if you have already attached them to the deadeyes you would have to allow for some slack to be taken up. The shrouds are not actually attached to the mast. Actual practice is done in a certain way for reasons that work. For the most part actual practice works best on the model. Lay the shrouds then set the deadeyes with a lanyard. Using a spacer to set the lanyards may be helpful. It is easier to attain equal spacing on a full size rig without a spacer than it is on a model.. I borrowed some images from Glenn Barlow's Cheerful for good examples.. When you ask for help, the best we can do is show you how it is usually done. When you choose to use a different method, it is harder to provide guidance after the fact.
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I would be interested in seeing any kit that showed the main stay collar with the detail of your drawing from Lees. The closest you will come is in some of the scratch build logs. Chuck' s Cheerful monograph and build log show very detailed rigging steps that could be used for a full rigged ship, but would be missing some of the elements like the main stay collar. Here are the instructions in the Model Shipways USS Constitution for a yard sling. There are no instructions for making the sling other than the image. This post in the Cheerful log has detailed images as well as precise instructions such as:
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Replying to posts
Gregory replied to Neill's topic in Using the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT IN THIS SUB-FORUM**
It looks like you managed to reply in that topic.. What did you do to fix it? -
Its not to late to put the Soleil Royale on the shelf and build a couple of simpler kits just to get a feel for the craft..
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Replying to posts
Gregory replied to Neill's topic in Using the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT IN THIS SUB-FORUM**
Do you make sure you are signed in? -
I've bought several kits on eBay and pretty much got what i expected for what I paid. I once bought a kit from someone who was up front about not knowing what should be in the kit. Once I received it, it turned out to be severely lacking in some respects. I contacted the seller, and they took my word for the depreciated value and gave me a partial refund with no argument.
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Even though an item says " no returns ", eBay will force the seller to refund if the buyer is unhappy with an item.. This is part of their new guarantee policy..
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You can look at the many Cheerful logs as well as Chuck's prototype build.. The monograph chapters are also available at the Syren Ship Model store.. For rigging , the book Rigging Period Fore-and-Aft Craft can be a lot of help..
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Chuck, is there a post somewhere about how the template is used?
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Idea : Printing fabric sails using heat transfer paper
Gregory replied to modeller_masa's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
While I share the concern with the fading of printer inks, on the other hand, if they fade over the years, the effect may not be all that undesirable in the context of an antique model ship..
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