Gregory

What are the dimensions of the body of the block?  ( From the plans, not what was provided in the kit.. )

Richard,

Looking at your Syren and Bounty launch logs, it would appear you have a great start on your planking skills, and have

relied on the detailed instructions provided with most ModelExpo kits.

The Mamoli kits never include detailed planking instructions, only illustrations of how it should look.

My search did not turn up any builds for this particular kit here at MSW, however your best bet is to look at some of the many Mamoli build logs and see how other members worked with these kits.

Some logs are more detailed than others regarding the first layer of planking, but you should be able to extrapolate from the many logs and develop a plan of your own.

Here is the results of a search I put together:  Mamoli Build Logs

One of my favorites is this Yacht Mary build by Mike Dowling.

He provides some pretty detailed first planking procedures.

Think of the first planking as the creation of a solid hull, to which you will add veneer to create  the planking look you achieved with your Syren.

Very nice work!  I look forward to seeing your progress..

Tonnant would be very similar to Rattlesnake as far as the rigging goes, and Modelexpo sells those plans..

You can also download the instructions for free..

The book " Rigging Period Ships Models: " would also be a good source for this type of ship.

The Sultana with the Chuck Passaro practicum would be an excellent start..

P.S.

Nostalgia

Anyone remember ( or take advantage of )  when you could get the Sultana with some basic tools, and get a total refund

if you completed the kit?  Alas, I did not get my refund..

Bruce,

Where do you think the Wood Database that Bob referenced might be getting their information from?

Is it possible we are looking at two different species that are similar in some regard but not hardness?

On 5/12/2019 at 4:57 PM, Bob Cleek said:

Here's the Database's "Wood Finder" page entry for AYC: https://www.wood-database.com/wood-finder/?fwp_wood_type=softwood&fwp_location=north-america&fwp_color=f4ade6dcf8b10d9a9934c5cf9b49be51&fwp_decay=durable

 

Very nice work..  I really like the tiller.

Too late now, but since  you are blackening the brass, did you consider wood?  ( a' la Chuck )

I have also used black card.

Longridge's The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships,  has very detailed belaying information..

I would think this information would apply to a lot of different rig types..

I remember discussing how sailors had to be able to work the rigging in the dark and all weather conditions.

Having standardization across types of rigs would have been important when considering a sailors ability to move from one ship to another..

Thanks for mentioning the sweet gum..   Lots of it around here, and I had never considered it for modeling..  I'll have to find me a piece, and check it out..

I had bought a couple of sheets of the AYC from Chuck, and haven't got around to using it yet ( beside taking it out of the wrapper and sniffing it, once in a while.. ).  I hadn't given the hardness much thought until today..  Yes, I can ding it with my thumbnail..    Good to know before I start working with it..

Sounds like I need to recant  my speculations as promised in my statements above..

Whatever the  reason for rigging the shrouds as shown, it would seem the practice did no show up very often..

Apparently there is a book with photos of the model.

MODELES HISTORIQUES au musée de la marine - TOME 2

So, we do have a model..  

I would like to see some details...

I would truly like to see a source for this method of setting up the shrouds..

I have never seen it in any reference, or on any ship/model in the 25 years I have been looking at these things.

I suspect it is totally fictitious, but will recant if shown any contrary evidence..

 La Toulonnaise, When Googled, does not bring up a reference to any real ship..

On 5/4/2019 at 11:37 AM, Blue Ensign said:

That's the conundrum  Dowmer,  proximity of the anchor to the Cathead, or greater field of fire, but with Cheerful there are other incumbrances to get in the way such as the  standards for the Bowsprit step and windlass. The advantage of the bow chase gun is the range, as sailing ship don't sail in a straight line perhaps that didn't matter that much.

I'll probably never get to the bottom of it, but at the end of the day it's a model and who's going to gainsay me, unless perhaps one of our members has the definitive answer in which case I'm all ears.😃

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

My $.02, if I may.

Since you are not displaying your model as a working ship, I would go for an arangement that showcases your work , rather than strive for technical accuracy with regard to  a ship undersail and rigged for battle..

I have Cheerful on the shelf, and your work is very inspirational..

Understood...

I have been working on this kit for ten years, and didn't document it well as I went along...

So, no log this time.

I'm hoping to have it finished soon, at which time I will show in Gallery..

I did a search for "Van de Velde yachts" images as suggested by Mark P, and sure enough, there are many examples of the double vangs..

I have decided it will be appropriate to include them on my model..

I hope to present some photos in the gallery before too long..

Here is another video..   

At about 5:05 we see the crewman working the pair by himself..

I suppose the two tackles would make it easier for one crewman to do the work..

8 hours ago, AVBiker said:

Hi Gregory

Look heare, a movie from Statenjacht Utrecht

Greetings Hubert

 

In the video that Hubert provided, at about 2:49, there is a crew member working a set of the vangs.  We only see a few seconds.  I would like to see what the whole operation was like.

Like Frankie said, it is clear that only one is needed; but for a period, they were rigged with two..

It would be interesting to know what the reasoning was..

4 hours ago, JerseyCity Frankie said:

Two lines that do exactly the same job? It would only double the workload for those  working that line when tacking. And neither line can function independently from the other-I can think of no good reason to rig this way.

That was my thought ..  However, Jan makes the point that they were doing it for a while.

The practice could have been started for some obscure reason.   Maybe a boat was lost when a vang broke loose, and a  survivor thought redundancy would be a good idea.

I think I'm going to go with one.   It caught my attention because it just looked too busy..

On the other hand, I may go with two, because for whatever reason, it does seem to be historically accurate during

a certain period...

Thanks for the movie Hubert..  I see the replica has the doubled vangs.  It would have been interesting to see them tack..

I have to imagine they would slack off on one pair, work the other pair, then tighten everything down..

Thanks, everyone for your response..

I'm finally getting around to completing the rigging on my Yacht Mary ( Mamoli ) and something seems odd to me..   ( above and beyond a lot of questionable details that seem common in a lot of kits )..

The rigging plan calls for two gaff vangs on each side of the boat.

I would be inclined to write it off to a Mamoli embellishment,  but I also see the same thing on this model of a similar boat,

As well as this one, in our gallery..

What would be the justification for two of these on each side of this type of boat, or is it just some convention that was copied for no good reason?

Quote

,

Do you have access to a printer?

You could possibly use Tshirt transfer paper or decal sheet..

21 hours ago, Edwardkenway said:

.... I have been reading some of the build logs on here and have been drawn to HM Cutter Sherbourne as she seems to fit my brief and will give me some experience with rigging a mast and yards. 

So thanks to all on here.

With that little ship in mind, you might also consider The Lady Nelson.. 

Several great build logs here also.

I don't believe you mentioned where you are,  but you will notice the link I provided for Lady Nelson is Cornwall Model Boats in the UK..

While their shipping rates to the US  may seem a bit high, the lower prices you will get for  some kits , Like Sherbourne, usually will come in at a lower total cost, than the same kit +shipping in the US.

Just a reminder..  If you bought the kit from ModelExpo, they will replace broken or missing parts for free..

Those hooks and blocks look very neat...  I swiped your pic for future reference...

May not be the best method at this size, but here is a method I use sometimes..

Blocks With Hooks or Eyes

There are some caveats  as far as penetrating into the sheave area, but it takes a little extra care and a good glue joint..