Gregory

FWIW, to show what can be done on the cheap, here is my first rope machine along with some product.

The upgraded version:

What works best for me is to scan the plans, then use a Bézier pen in Corel Paintshop to plot the outline of a bulkhead or other part on a separate layer.

I then save that layer as a .bmp which works with my laser engraver.

I believe some free programs like Inkscape will convert .bmp to vector drawings, if you need to convert for your CNC.

Historic Ship Models by Wolfram zu Mondfeld Has a lot of information about the purpose of most lines.  The information spans several centuries

and many types of rigs. Here is the index, which gives an overview of topics covered.

Here is a drawing from the Anatomy of The Ship book by John Mckay.

The detail is hard to make out, and there may be different opinions as to the accuracy.

Here is a little tip I posted about this ..

Pin rail Tip

Probably not real practice, but effective on models IMO..

Anything is possible..

Once you start talking about ripping and such, then you need a fence, and a miter gauge, etc.  You can quickly go beyond what

seems to be the scope of the original project.  Also the cost would go up accordingly.

I think I would put together a little more robust table than what we see in the video.  Maybe using 1/4" plywood.

Something like this:

12V Motor on Amazon

Power supply

Just search for 12v DC motor..

The image I linked to above is from Chuck's prototype, and clearly shows the block on the top mast.

Where did you source your Plans?

Mine came from https://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/

Here is a relevant image from sheet 2 of 3..  Standing rigging.

Edited:

Dave,  I just had a look at the start of Chuck's log where he posted some plans, which show the stay as you describe.

It would appear there was at least one revision to those plans as provided in the full scale plans available for purchase.

What plans are you looking at?

On my plans, included with the starter kit from Chuck,  the bowsprit is the standing end.  The running end reeves through a block at the top mast, and runs to a two block tackle, attached to an eyebolt  down on the mast or on the deck in front of the mast..  Perhaps Chuck can clarify.

I believe this image from the build log, shows it attached to an eyebolt on the deck in front of the mast.

https://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_12_2016/post-2-0-68552000-1483056174.jpg

I'm not 100% sure, because the wording on the plans says " ... an eyebolt on fore side of the mast. "

Not sure this is a new idea, but here is what I came up with for making stronger pin rails.

I use L shape stock.  The bottom part, which provides a base for anchoring, is virtually invisible once mounted on the bulwark.

11 hours ago, JerseyCity Frankie said:

... my theory is that these examples are all Museum ships open to the public. ....

In light of which, the frapping of gun tackle would seem appropriate on a model.  

No less so, than the neat coils laying on the deck, often seen on models. 

Would those coils represent actual practice on a  working ship?

22 hours ago, druxey said:

...... As you know, natural ebony is hard to work and glue, as well as creates toxic, messy dust. .....

Considering the un-friendliness as a modeling medium, I'm curious as to the background/tradition on the desire to use ebony in wood ship modeling.

Might be able to help with more info...  Any pictures?

Nice pictures of the Max Emanuel model here..  Model

The lines are virtually identical to the Mamoli Yacht Mary kit, but the details are much finer..

I remember being a kid in the 50's, going to one of the local drug stores that sold plastic model kits, and looking at the pictures

on the boxes. Particularly the small Constitution & Bounty.  The $3.98 price tag was beyond my means at that time, but a

passion was born.

Quote

Hence my question on how you hold the ratlines in place until glued

.  When I have done this, I put drops of white glue on the shrouds, and then,  lay a small piece of line across the drops of glue on the shrouds

to form the ratline, wiggle it a bit from side to side to pick up the glue, and it will stay in place until the glue dries if not disturbed.

I can make a pic, if this is not clear.

Yes..  I think the vote was con=1, sensus = 0 ..

Gilmer Wood is about 170 miles from Bremerton.

On 7/12/2017 at 9:38 AM, Chuck said:

Gregory...because that was the way it was done.

.............................

 

Chuck

 

I realized after re-reading a couple of times, that I may have not made my thoughts clear on this;  being that, if this was not the practice at the time, why would a professional

model builder do such a thing?

My opinion was/is, that they would not.  Leading me to believe the model is accurate..

I just noticed the moveable cover on the galley stack..  I don't think i have seen that feature modeled before..

Photo

It sure makes me wonder why a modeler would have put the traveler under the tiller.

It doesn't even meet the oft repeated criteria of " it looks good " ..

FWIW they appear on the Hull model also..  With rope..

Hull Model

Meant to add, as popeye2sea mentioned, moving it forward very much would interfere with the foresail..