Gregory

Here's part 4..

5 hours ago, CTDavies said:

I need your expert opinions here.

I'm no expert, but I think the cardboard between planks looks a bit wide considering the scale..

It would be hard to speculate if it would be a good idea for you.   Proper planking requires some bending in at least two diminutions, and the thinner planks, depending on the wood type, may be less forgiving.

You would really do well to check out the planking articles here:

Database of Articles and Downloads

22 minutes ago, Devin Camary said:

I am using the correct terminology when I mention yardarm?

There was some discussion about this recently..

Jaager's comments are correct..

Quote

 The yardarm is the very end of a large yard. 

43 minutes ago, allanyed said:

I am curious about the bow area in the photo.   Does anyone know if the planking over this area is something called for in the kit?  

The older Mamoli kits all had the stem and keel as part of the plywood backbone, and the instructions call for the veneer covering.

This is also the case with many other kits that do not provide separate stem and keel parts..  My Corel Resolution is a good example.

It's just a government mandate, and they have to pull something out of their.... hat..

Very few, double plank kits have a rabbet, which is a kind of groove, where the ends of the planks would sit flush with the stem or stern post.

If there is no rabbet, you have to bevel the inside edge and fit it flush with the stem, keel and stern.

There are countless good examples here, but I think YT did a particularly good job on his Mamoli Victory..

When just getting started, I think a big difference is the quality of the instructions..

The Medway longboat or the Model Shipways 18th Century Armed Longboat 1:24 Scale  are great options in this regard..

You also might want to consider the MODEL SHIPWAYS 18TH CENTURY LONGBOAT..  Great price and a decent tool package.

Also great instructions by Chuck..

On 1/19/2020 at 8:30 AM, vaddoc said:

The bitch plywood I got is much whiter as wood is not dried prior to processing.

I think I had some of that same plywood a while back..😄

I just remembered I borrowed a few of these from the Admiral for light clamping.  They are small. light and still have a pretty good bite..

Multipurpose Sewing Clips

4 hours ago, SpyGlass said:

I was toying with idea of just using bits of the laser engraved deck like the lovely nibbed section detail and the nice joints on the adjacent planks but could i get a colour match of the wood ?

I think that is an excellent idea.  I don't think a precise color match would be as important as the over-all appearance.

2 hours ago, Vane said:

On the one hand, I think a properly laid plank deck in maple would look best. But on the other hand, the laserdeck would same me tons of work and it also includes some details difficult to make. And it would be really interesting to try it out and see if this works. This kit has so many New solutions so perhaps its just right för this build.

Here is a way to explore an alternate deck without damaging the kit provided one. 

You can transfer a template to tissue paper.  Then you glue your planks to the tissue paper, allowing for the waterway  .  If it is satisfactory when finished, you can glue the whole thing to the existing deck.  I have done this with success on some small projects, and it should work at this level also.

The smallest I can find are about 1 inch.. Miniature Clothes pins

Might be the smallest available..

On 1/13/2020 at 11:10 PM, Delphic Oracle said:

One big question I have, however, is the rim piece.  In the kit this is also a single laser cut part and lays over the top of the planking.  Is that accurate?  Looking at a few scratch builds I tend to see multiple pieces of wood that appear to be wrapped around the outside and oriented perpendicular to the planks (tall/narrow rather than short/wide, so to speak).  Thoughts and resources welcome.

I think you might find this section from the ModelExpo Syren helpful..   https://modelexpo-online.com/assets/images/documents/MS2260-Syren-Instructions-Chapter-17.pdf

The look of the tops would be very similar.

Info about battens is very good to know..

18 hours ago, marktiedens said:

Chuck uses an iron,but I don`t have enough space between the hold-down tabs to use an iron.  I had to use closely spaced tabs because my planks are less than 1mm thick & would otherwise buckle very easily. 

I can't argue with what works for you, but did you ever try using an iron without the tabs?  Yes it buckles, but with the iron you can just flatten the buckles out..

3 hours ago, Oddball said:

Maybe sell the kit upset the wife and have cold meals for a month...l

Suggest to the wife that you want to hone your skills a bit before running the risk of damaging the wonderful kit she bought you..

There may be many suggestions, but my favorite for a first kit is the 1:48 Longboat from ModelExpo. It comes with a nice set of tools.

It has  really great instructions that will help with most wood kits going forward.

Sign up for emails at ModelExpo and watch for nice discounts.

I agree Frankie.  This has become my go-to place for rigging details ( Not necessarily the run of the rigging ) and deck fittings for cutters.

Ooops..  Solved my problem.

There is something wrong here..   Your tools and work area are much too neat and clean..😄

Seriously, that is a very nice start.  I look forward to watching your progress...

I particularly like your work board with the drawers underneath..  I am going to shamelessly steal that idea..

Your links would indicate it ( on the left ) is the final color at this point.

I don't think it is a color I would be comfortable with if I was building the model.  I think most observers would question it, as a lot of them seem to be doing now.

I think Druxey's  comments above, carry a lot of weight.

Are you sure the picture on the left is the final color, and not some sort of primer?

For what it is worth, MicroMark makes an adjustable fence like the one shown for the Dremel saw..

Accuriser

The Microlux 4" saw was probably the best before Byrnes came along.

Here is the actual drawing with a ruler overlayed. This will not print to actual size.

I will send you a PM with the image that should print to actual size..  It looks like the Bower Anchor is about 75mm at 1:96.

PS

As we discussed in our PM exchange, I think this scale - 1/96 - is off..  Seems off by maybe a factor of 2, and is actually 1:48

I sure will ..  Later today..

Sorry,  I didn't think of that when I posted..