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Rustyj

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Posts posted by Rustyj

  1. Thanks Christian. I look forward to your building this too!

     

    Next was to make the 20 thole pins or oar locks. These are tiny laser cut pieces and thankfully

    Chuck supplies extra. A couple disappeared into the black hole of the shop floor.

     

    IMG_2690.JPG.cf4de56963087257bf9596a12b79e017.JPG

     

    IMG_2685.thumb.JPG.d64557bede04977725272d34dbf36a5f.JPG

     

    IMG_2692.thumb.JPG.22f15e3fab5038a36b55051e3586e946.JPG

     

    As you can see they are small. They were glued in place per the plans and then painted.

     

    Next up is the rudder.

     

     

    IMG_2694.JPG

    IMG_2693.JPG

  2. Next I worked on the iron strap along the outside edge of the stem. The strap is laser cut from laserboard

    which is resin impregnated paper and already blackened.After the pieces were glued in place holes were

    drilled to accept 22 gauge wire  which simulated the bolts. After the wire was cut and sanded smooth

    they were painted black and then some rusty brown weathering powder was applied to give it a more 

    metal look.

     

    IMG_2687.thumb.JPG.a6d5b4f673e54b43c2ec14c0de75bf46.JPG

     

    IMG_2689.thumb.JPG.19d740a15817f64e9f7f62e8f547251f.JPG

     

    IMG_2688.thumb.JPG.a2a745398012ebc9efaf5e17a65ae459.JPG

     

    Next up it will be assembling the thole pins, placing them and then more painting!

  3. Thank you all for your kind words and likes It's very much appreciated.

     

    This is how I did it which fairly closely follows Chucks instructions.

    After any flash was removed the resin pieces were washed in a mild dish soap and warm water.

    The first power applied was "gritty yellow".  Then "highlight white" followed by "dirty brown".

    The powders are applied with a clean brush. Small amounts at a time.

    If I had too much of one color I'd just alternate powders until I was satisfied with the look.

    Once I was happy with the result the pieces were sprayed with two light coats of Krylon clear fixative. 

     

    Thanks for stopping by!

     

     

  4. This will not come as any new revelation to anyone but Chuck is a great carver. Me not so much. :D

    I've played with the boxwood laser cut carvings and though they are really great I slaughtered them.

    Soooooo I am using Chucks optional resin castings. They required very little clean up.

    Chucks used weathering powders and I did the same. You can see the results below. 

    You also can see there's still a lot of clean up and touching up needed.

     

     

    IMG_2680.thumb.JPG.92603726a4b87c67a4fe81a037a1e397.JPG

     

     

    IMG_2678.thumb.JPG.a57b8db340aa5f53928d63dbafbd5d20.JPG

     

     

    IMG_2677.thumb.JPG.b129415b6078c016027fcc7dae9b575b.JPGIMG_2676.thumb.JPG.2da48c08a90990695555f0c34509391c.JPG

     

    IMG_2675.thumb.JPG.5d5e4f84f37267fba1623997025e4f49.JPG

     

     

  5. Hi All,

     

    I've been MIA for a bit. Vacation, family and good weather have kept me away from the workshop and MSW.

    Well I've made it back to the shop for a bit of an update.

     The forward flag support bracket has been added as well as the step.

    IMG_2673.thumb.JPG.75e4b69c66f42066db1e77b807918e12.JPG

     

    IMG_2674.thumb.JPG.73df2c6b64b5f2b31e427e1b116d698e.JPG

     

    Here are the kit supplied laser wood carvings

     

    IMG_2638.thumb.JPG.46778d2a86c8f613eace85c02a9e3a3c.JPG

     

    and the kit supplied resin castings

     

    IMG_2639.thumb.JPG.469012eb1673a0b95d34b7969370b362.JPG

     

    and the optional resin castings

     

    IMG_2637.thumb.JPG.b3e40f08a85e90124bda9dfafc3c848c.JPG

     

    and the weathering powers to use on the resin castings.

     

    IMG_2672.thumb.JPG.0e89f720928c7049040da2d653c9bdd1.JPG

     

    Both the laser cut and resin pieces are great. I did get the additional resin casting just in case I either mess up the carving or get lazy!

    They look so good it will be hard to duplicate.

     

     

  6. The kit provides the various friezes all sized and ready to be inserted into the panels.

    Chuck describes using a glue stick to adhere the friezes. As I didn't have a glue stick I

    diluted some white glue, used a paint brush to apply it to the area inside the panels

    and then gently press the frieze in place. 

     

    IMG_2667.thumb.JPG.5fafffcc07398c6cc344eec995f641d4.JPG

     

    IMG_2670.thumb.JPG.9bafe44f030a1c84f388d0a8a41434e6.JPG

     

    IMG_2671.thumb.JPG.d20763feaee843292ce609a02e9a7e1f.JPG

     

     

    IMG_2669.thumb.JPG.b2ec46d444329c35b3583c4fbad5652b.JPG

     

    Next I will paint and install the bow flag support brace and the step.

  7.  

    Here are laser cut boxwood panels that need adding.

     

    IMG_2663.thumb.JPG.5123435012514d516c2d1c3450032289.JPG

     

    Again Chuck added extras because the are VERY DELICATE. Old hammer hands only broke

    a couple but it was nice to know there were plenty of spares!

     

     

    IMG_2665.thumb.JPG.73bf001cb234939ef1ef3fa361b88568.JPG

     

     

    IMG_2664.thumb.JPG.2ed4ca9f9c5b0786ca447c675d8bc3a1.JPG

     

    The inboard painting is done unless I make a boo boo. Next I'll be cutting out the printed friezes and inserting them in the panels.

  8. Thank you OrLiN. Welcome aboard. 

     

    The inboard planking has been completed. Thankfully Chuck had the forethought to supply extra

    planking pieces at the bow. It is a hefty bend and old hammer hands broke the first plank. 

     

    IMG_2660.thumb.JPG.a158cbad92ccd035b0f845197d07b94f.JPG

     

    You can see the planking is not flush with the cap rail and forms a bit of a rabbet. You also can see pieces

    added that do go all the way to the cap rail. These form a wider spot for the thole pins.

     

    IMG_2662.thumb.JPG.1b904baf35b95737987b027883d1f25b.JPG

     

    Well it's back to painting, painting, painting. :D

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