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yvesvidal

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Everything posted by yvesvidal

  1. yvesvidal
    Great find RGL. I used RCSubs (CZ Subs) for my Trumpeter Type VII-C in 1/48 and I could not have been happier with their products. It looks like there will be plenty of add-ons and money to spend..... https://www.rcsubs.cz/index.php/photo-etched-sets/75-sets-for-viic-1-35-border-bs-001 Yves
  2. yvesvidal
    Incredible project for a lovely liner. I will be following your progress. Yves
  3. yvesvidal
    I announced that new kit a few months ago. It is now becoming available and I just received the Box ordered from Sprues Brothers. The final result is targeted to people who wish to build a diorama in the 1/35th scale and combine the conning tower and deck of the U-Boot with some other numerous 1/35th accessories and details. The box allows you to build the following: Note that no crew members are included in the kit. The box is quite large (two feet long) and packed with a lot of parts: Multiple decorations and themes are offered and BORDER offers some decals, to cover most suggestions: Inside the box, multiple sprues are included: All the railings are protected by a paper box: The main deck section is molded in a single impressive part of two feet long (60 cm). All the holes, vents and openings are already drilled and molded perfectly. A small plate of Photo-etched parts is also included, with some decals. Instructions are well presented in a booklet in full colors: The kit is relatively expensive for what it is ($80-100) and the time of affordable kits is long gone. It seems to be of high quality and the molding is very well done with no ejection marks. A kit for submarine enthusiasts mostly.... Yves
  4. yvesvidal
    That is a very Happy Man..... 🙂 Yves
  5. yvesvidal
    These Protar kits are so expensive, nowadays. I wish Italeri would re-issue all of them, as they did with the most famous motorcycles (e.g. Norton Manx). Yves
  6. yvesvidal
    Ras, You found a gem. I love these old PROTAR kits and have a couple to build in my stash. When I was a kid, my family went to Italy (Bologna) and that is where I discovered PROTAR motorcycle kits. My father bought me the Moto Guzzi 4 in line with fairing and I enjoyed every minute of assembling this model. The engine was working internally, when the rear wheel was spun. I will be following with a lot of interest. Yves
  7. yvesvidal
    It always does 🙂 Yves
  8. yvesvidal
    Very good idea to mix wood with the paper cards. Yves
  9. yvesvidal
    I am sorry you had to find out the hard way. I realized that with horror, while building my large 1/48 U-Boot. The Vallejo Primer on all PE parts, had to be carefully scratched with a nail and then some brushes. I ended up using Tamiya primer or automotive primer and it worked like a charm. Yves
  10. yvesvidal
    That is so true. Building out of paper cards adds a considerable level of difficulty to the model. It is unfortunate because of lot of very interesting and rare models are available in cards only. Yves
  11. yvesvidal
    Oh, I forgot to mention it, but the model weights about 19 pounds at this stage. It may reach 20 pounds, when all is said and done but most of the parts left are made of light wood and should not contribute much to the mass of the model. Not exactly easy to move around.... Yves
  12. yvesvidal
    So after a few weeks of work, the port side is pretty much completed. I still have some wood joinery to do and correct some painting mishaps, as well as installing the 18 gun port lids that are still missing. The upper gun port lids have been built and installed: what a royal pain in the ****, to build them and install them correctly. Overall view of the Port side of Bellona: Now, the same has to be done on the starboard side..... Wish me luck !!! Yves
  13. yvesvidal
    The bolster to protect the hull from the damaging effect of the flukes of the anchors, is not very well defined in the kit. A piece of plywood is provided to be glued between the two curved cherry parts, but it is not realistic and plywood does not bend easily, at least in my world. Instead I created the bolster by gluing 2 x 3 mm basswood strips cut at 20 mm long. The top part of the bolster is a section of the channel, cut from the main front channel. I will not be representing the channels on my model, since they are not equipped with holes and the kit does not offer any bolts, chains and deadeyes. Besides, I really like the smooth shape of the hull and do not want to compromise it with additional and poorly depicted features. The kit only provides instructions and parts for the upper section of the bolsters. However, using the Anatomy of the Ship, one can see that there is more to it: Yves
  14. yvesvidal
    Wow, times flies. It has been a month already. I have not worked much and was distracted by various things. However, I managed to make some progress on the Port side of the hull: There are quite a few decals to install, after finishing all the woodwork with various small strips of wood (not provided in the kit). I debated using the 2 x 3 mm strips (included in the kit) and decided against them, as they are too large and too thick for some of the wood rails. Instead I went with 1.5 x 1 mm strips. The decals are placed using MICROSCALE SET and SOL chemicals. Then, a couple of coats of Future Floor is brushed to seal the decals and to protect them from handling. The surface is treated with Future Floor before applying the decals, since we need to have a glossy surface for optimal adhesion of the decals. Above, the Forecastle railing has almost been completed on the port side. I will work on the bow, before finishing the railing in the front. The small pounder guns have been completed. A total of 70 guns were put together: it was quite tedious and there is no room for mistakes or losses. In fact, CAF Model does not provide a single spare parts for these guns: 280 wheels, 140 axles, 70 brass barrels and numerous other parts with absolutely zero spare parts. If you loose a wheel, you are on your own. If you break an axle while sanding them to make them fit into the wheels, you are on your own again. It is regrettable that on such kit, there is no room for errors. Yves
  15. yvesvidal
    Jeff, It is funny you mentioned the Bismarck waiting in the queue.... I do have the Mikasa, Bismarck and now Yamato in my queue. I think I need a couple more lives to finish them all. YVes
  16. yvesvidal
    Your model is becoming a marvel. Yves
  17. yvesvidal
    This is more like a brass model with plastic addenda. :-) Yves
  18. yvesvidal
    Nice little fishing boat. And the BB technique of two halves for building the hull, is always a great help for beginners and intermediate modelers. You are progressing very well. Yves
  19. yvesvidal
    What a gorgeous yawl, on that cover. Nothing can be more perfect than this.... Yves
  20. yvesvidal
    Great work, so far. Yves
  21. yvesvidal
    My experience (and others...) is that the Vallejo primer should be avoided on brass and PE parts. It works very well on plastic, but will peel from PE/brass parts in a very frustrating way. You may want to verify your painting, before going any further. Yves
  22. yvesvidal
    I wish CAF Model would use the same technique for their window panes, instead of the CNC machined wood. These windows are very sharp, especially at this scale. Yves
  23. yvesvidal
    Your work on the rigging of this ship, is incredible. I am wondering if you have not sailed the real thing..... You are a perfectionist. Yves
  24. yvesvidal
    I wonder if it was typical to paint the figure-heads on period ships, or is it only applicable to that specific vessel? I am not too sure what to do with my Bellona figure-head..... All gold, wood painted or fully decorated? Thanks for any info you may provide. Yves
  25. yvesvidal
    Well done Kevin. Now back to the Enterprise to warm you up a little bit more.... Yves

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