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yvesvidal

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Everything posted by yvesvidal

  1. You are pushing the details....with 3D printing technology. Very sweet. Yves
  2. Mike, Here it is (sorry for all the dust on the model): As you can see above, the front of the cabin (wheel house) is fixed/glued to the main deck and cannot be taken apart. The main cabing rests on the main deck (glued). The upper deck is removable and held simply by two piece of wood in the front and rear: The upper deck slides on the main cabin and gets locked under the wheel house: When in place, it is secured and very sturdy: And finally, just for fun, a comparison of the Calypso (1/43.5) and the Corvette (1/48). The Calypso should even be smaller if it was built in 1/48th scale: Sorry for intruding on your Build Log. I can remove this material if you wish. Yves
  3. The Eduard gun is a little marvel, although I ended up with the Trumpeter on my model. It was not an easy choice.... You have a lot of work ahead of you 🙂 Yves
  4. I am not sure what you are trying to do here. The main cabin is NOT being removed for an RC control model. The upper deck is removed and there is plenty of space to access the RC components inside. Of course, you would have to plan the installation of the motor and batteries support ahead of time.... My model is RC equipped and has navigated on all kinds of lake and seas. I do not see why you are concerned with the support being glued on the deck: the resulting structure is very solid and I have never broken anything. My Calypso is now 40 years old and still in one piece. For a static model, the building is even simpler as you do not have to plan for inside access. Yves PS: if you need, I can post a picture of my model, showing how the upper deck fits on the cabin.
  5. I will be following with interest as this is one of the model I would like to build one day. Yves
  6. Thanks for the compliments and recommendations. I cleaned the copper with alcohol in an attempt to remove most finger prints and coated the tiles with Future Floor. The tiles have a nice reddish color that I like very much and will probably turn darker with time. I can see some finger prints showing and I may have to remove the Pledge chemical, clean the copper underneath and re-coat again in a couple of spots. But I will worry about this later on, as time may show other imperfections. Yves
  7. Try Wipe on Poly : it colors a tad darker the wood and provides a varnish like covering. Try it on a piece of wood first, see if you like and then move on. You can find it Lowe's or Home Depot. It is a Classic and lots of people are using it. Yves
  8. Excellent choices, especially the Sabre and P-38 which are not so common. Yves
  9. Still following (more or less) the CAF Model instructions, it is now time to dress and stiffen the upper section of the hull. I am approaching one side of the hull at a time. Because of the large size and weight of the hull, it is not practical to jump back and forth between the two sides. So, after Step #8 (Coppering), we are now focusing onto Step #9. The main wales (B) have already been taken care of before the planking of the hull, as indicated before. I am now planking the space between (B - Wales) and (C - Channels). This is done in the following way, after careful measurements: (A) is coppering, (B) are the wales and (C) the channels. The distance between the wales and the Channels is of about 28-29 mm. As some of you may recall, I installed a lime wood strip of 6 mm wide x 2 mm thick (not provided in the kit) on top of the main wales. That strip plus three strips of 8 mm x 0.4 mm Maple (provided in the kit) will end up at around 29 mm, once sanded and glued. So it will fit perfectly and is easy to install and cut with scissors. You can see the progressive transition from the bulky 3 mm thick wales to the top wale (2 mm) and then the hull planking at 0.4 mm. A view of the bow: You can see that I started building the Channels, using the 2 mm x 8 mm planks provided in the kit (Package "C"). The question came for the stern. Should I extend all the planking to the very end of the ship or should I stop it at a certain distance? Will the planking (and specifically the channels), affect the construction of the Galleries (coming in Session #5 .... and thus far away). After a quick discussion with Tom, it was decided to extend all planking all the way to the end, and then sand very thin the channels at the exact size of the side galleries, so that no extra thickness exists to jeopardizes the alignment of the windows. I hope you are enjoying the discovery of that complex and large kit. Yves
  10. Hamilton. It is all in the previous posts. You just have to read them... 🙂 Yves
  11. If there is a big and beautiful car kit on the market, KPNuts has it !!!! Superb model, once again. Yves
  12. Hamilton, I am not familiar with the tape provided in the Model Shipways kits (Constitution, Syren....). I assume it is the same one that they sell on their catalog but I have no detail where they are sourcing it. The tape I used is from 3M and was recommended to me by many model ship enthusiasts. That tape also happens to have the right width for the tiles, which is a big plus when you have to cut slightly more than 2,400 one of them. Yves
  13. My goal is to get a nice even reddish color around the hull and seal it with Future Floor. It will most likely continue its process of disintegration over the years, but should be extremely slowed down by the coating. Yves
  14. All the details have been given before. You just need to read them. The tape was procured from Delphi https://www.delphiglass.com/ They are specialized in Stained glass and you should be able to find this material in England, where this kind of art is quite common. Yves
  15. That John Player Special dress is always an eyes turner.... Yves
  16. Yes, it is a superb model, with an incredible paint. I am a sucker for Alfas..... Yves
  17. Start a new thread Kevin: it will be cleaner and clearer. Yves
  18. Seeing you build this model, brings back tons of memory when I built it in 1985, on the French Riviera. Yves
  19. Finally, Step 8 of the second session is over. I am letting you enjoy the plethora of information and guidance that CAF model is giving to the builder: Coppering !!! It is all in the name :-) That tedious process is finally over, with close to 2,400 tiles cut, embossed, peeled and placed by hand. The number is very close to what the real ship used and that is a testimony to the size of the model tiles (25 mm x 8 mm). I would absolutely recommend the process of using the 3M copper tape, as it is so much easier to prepare, install and glue than pre-cut tiles with CA glue. The burnishing allowed with the copper tape also permits you to finish nicely, those delicate sections where a piece of metal may not fit perfectly. Finally, if the cost is a consideration, know that I was able to finish this enormous hull with only two rolls of tape and I have plenty left for the rudder or any repair. Cost was $43 including shipping versus the $400 for the tiles + many glue bottles that the kit copper tiles would cost you. A big thank you to all the readers that have convinced me to go with the tape. I am going to let it sit for a few days, as the copper is slowly tarnishing and acquiring that red and warm hue that I enjoy so much. After that I will seal it with Future Floor most likely. Let's enjoy some pictures of the finished animal: For those who would be tempted to follow this process, here is the invoice for the two rolls of 3M tape: and the product: There are some variations in the color of the tiles, which is actually rather pleasant, but the more I wait and the more everything blends nicely like the foliage in autumn. I hope you have enjoyed that approach. I know I was very hesitant to start it and I do not regret it in any ways. The only casualty of this process is that I no longer have a full nail on my right thumb, after peeling 2400 copper tiles from their protective adhesive backing. I am going to force on the brewer's yeast supplements to re-grow that nail.... Yves
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