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yvesvidal

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Everything posted by yvesvidal

  1. Still working on the gun decks: Some people may notice that the sections are not connecting. This is intentional, since this whole part of the vessel will be invisible once the main deck is built. In addition, it would be very impractical to plank in that deep hull and the risks of breaking the knees are not worth the trouble. Through a closed gun port or by poking a gun in your eye, you will not be able to see much of the gun deck. That is the nature of the beast. Yves
  2. Another exciting update, with the same exact thing repeating: Section #4: Again, two large pieces glued together with MEK and then Epoxy resin. Printing time? 34 Hours and 49 Hours !!! You can see the extrusion problem starting to show up, before I could diagnose the crack in the lever. To remedy the incorrect feeding of the PLA, I was reducing the speed to 50%. Section #4 is then MEKed to the existing lower hull and later on re-inforced with epoxy resin and the 3-4 coupler part: The central bottom hull section made of sections #2, #3 and #4: Almost 3 feet long at this stage. I am sure all this PLA parts are getting you excited, right? It will get more interesting once we move to the upper hull. Yves
  3. Those pumps look very sharp. Their capacity of 1.2 gallons per minute is way greater than say, a windshield washer pump that I have used in the past for ballast tanks. At this rate, it will take less than 3 minutes to empty your ballasts, and probably even less. Yves
  4. Moving along with the lower hull. Installation of the lower section #3: That section is comprised of two parts (always) that required 31 hours and 24 hours of printing time, respectively. Between each section, a coupler stiffens the hull and provides for a very strong assembly. I use MEK first and then epoxy resin for a solid coupling. I know, it looks sloppy but it is very solid. From the outside: Another coupler will go between Section #3 and section#4. There is not much to see at this stage and the interesting part will come later. Yves
  5. I can see a Sabre jet engine kit being produced, very soon. And you can pick up the scale... 🙂 Yves
  6. A few small progress, with the building of the lower hull, Section #2 and #3: Bottom Section #2 (refers to the overall view of the submarine if confused...) is made up of two parts: White that took 17 hours to print at low speed The light grey one with the openings that took 42 hours. The reason why these were printed at low speed is because of some extrusion problem on my 3D printer. It took me a while to figure out that the extrusion lever was cracked internally and not putting enough pressure on the filament when feeding. I should have known better, but could not see the damages from the outside. Bottom Section #3 is shown as well, with one light grey part glued to Section #2 and the second part of Section #3, waiting to be glued... Bottom Section #3 took 31 Hours and 21 hours to print..... This view shows how the various parts are being glued together. The overall assembly is perfectly flat and rests on the table. The diameter of the submarine is of about 200 mm. It will be very large at 1/48th scale. Yves
  7. A quick update for a change of pace from the HMS Bellona. This model will be static and thus will be built differently from what the kit is suggesting (not that they give you a lot of information....). I will start with the bottom section of the hull, using pre-shaped large balsa strips of 1/4 inch by 3/4 inch, for rigidity. There are 7 sections in this submarine and none of them can fit on my 3D printer along the Z axis (height). Thus, they are all split in two pieces that need to be glued and aligned together. Again, I am using the MEK to solder the parts, but these are large and will likely require epoxy glue for a solid and sturdy assembly. The lower section is put together by using the two hard balsa strips and #10 screws with washers and nuts: The following parts are placed and all holes are drilled with precision: Nothing is glued yet. I need to prepare a large quantity of epoxy to make sure that everything is sturdy, straight and solid. Yves
  8. The bow section of the gun deck is now completed: Bitts and front mast holder. And with a coat of oak wood stain: The overall color will become dull with time, matching the stern gun deck. Yves
  9. Time for a little check point on this long and delicate Session #2. The hull is partially completed although there is still a lot of detailing work to be done. We still have a lot of parts left for Session #2 and tons of delicate work with the interior of the hull and the gun deck: I am going to start decking from the bow, since the stern deck (E) has been already put in place. The front deck requires some reworking and the CAD design does not exactly fit my model: Nothing major as you can see, just some adjustments necessary on such a large model. I will plank these decks outside of the hull for multiple reasons: Comfort of working and precision. The hull is deep and access is not easy. I do not want to place unnecessary stress on the hull, while trying to fiddle with the decks. It is easy to break parts, especially inside the hull. Once completed, the gun deck should look like the picture below: As you can see below, I changed the order of assembly and kept the deck(s) installation for the end. So, let's get started with the bow.... Yves
  10. The port side is almost completed. I still have to paint the gun ports, carefully.....and endlessly. The stern is wide open and I am skipping the installation of the window frame as it would result in a broken part (8 windows wide): Same for the bow, which si coming in Session #4, after the installation of the main deck: The next big task of that endless SESSION #2, is the building of the gun deck: Overall view of the beast: It is starting to get heavy..... Yves
  11. Having a little diorama immediately changes the appearance of the model. Very well done Alan. Yves
  12. Egilman, I think there is a kit of the Sabre at 1/18 scale by Hobby Boss. I am quite certain that that kit could benefit from your scale up jet engine, once you manage to print it. I see a lot of potential, scaling up or down such a lovely engine. Yves
  13. Alan, for some of the parts, I had a friend print them with a resin printer. The PLA just doesn't cut it. You may try at very slow speed (40% or 20 mm per second) to improve the quality. Yves
  14. Four or five coats later (I lost track of them), I think I have the colors pretty much laid out nicely: Of course, the red delicate touch-ups on the gun ports, remain to be brushed. I will now move to the rails ("D" and "E") to match the other side of the hull. Thank you for the Likes and encouragements. Yves
  15. The upper hull on the port side, has been planked and is now ready for its first coat of ultramarine blue: This will allow me to better see the numerous small imperfections that are always present on a model of such size. Yes, there will be two to three more coats of yellow, with some sanding in between. And of course, the fine detailing with a red brush.... After that, I will install the rails and we will be able to transition to the main gun deck. Overall, I am glad I did not finish the gun deck and broke free from the sequence of instructions. Not having the deck in place, allows you to grab the hull using the bulkheads. Yves
  16. Egilman, Will you be offering a commercial version of your incredible 3D printed jet engine for that kit? Yves
  17. There are quite a few Emma C Berry being built on this forum or in other places. Your jig simplify greatly the delicate assembly process of the frames. You should offer a rental service of this "jig tool" to all potential Emma Berry kit builders. I have seen this done with special tool for cars or other hobbies and it usually works rather well. Yves
  18. Thank you for the compliments. No, I am not open to any printing for multiple reasons: - It takes too much time. - You need to get a printer and jump in with the rest of the crowd. You will not regret it. - The printing learning curve is not that bad at all. It is a great skill to have. - You may find a 3D printing club near where you live and they may help you at the beginning. - I am just too busy..... Yves
  19. Fantastic model and incredible weathering. You truly improved the original kit ..... For having built the model straight from the kit, I can appreciate the extent of what you did. It is truly amazing. Only critics, I wish you had left some space (Line) between the pictures. Yves
  20. Two light coats of yellow, before planking the upper side: Then more yellow and a lot of blue.... At least 5 coats since the Ultramarine Blue is very transparent. Yves
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