dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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Swan class 3D model in progress
dvm27 replied to dvm27's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Welcome back Denis! I doubt that most of our followers are aware that you have further developed the 3D model with sails and ropes to accommodate gamers (where the big bucks are). I'm sure that 99.9% of them will not notice that your rope is laid left-handed vs the traditional right-handed method so I won't point that out 😉. Still, if you are able to reverse the lay with the simple click of a button I know you will do it as you are OCD when it comes to details.- 141 replies
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- pof swan series
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Try contacting Ben at the Midwest Modelers Shop. His e-mail address is TheMidwestModelShop@gmail.com. He has built a couple of Titanic models for clients and has many subscribers so he may be able to find you a model. You may also wish to check out Fine Art Models https://fineartmodels.com/titanic/. They have built the finest Titanic model at 1:48 but also sold 1:192 models.
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You should put a small ruler in your photos for reference. It's hard to believe the complexity of your work at this scale. I wish your log had an index because it should become the new bible of ship model rigging. Your split thimbles look perfect. Can you point me to the section where you manufactured these?
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Problems with blackening brass
dvm27 replied to Desertanimal's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
I've had better luck with Brass Black but this is unfortunately no longer available. If any of the part you need to be blackened is soldered then the Sparex works great as a cleaner/etching solution. -
Like everyone else here I miss Doris's work but you're doing an amazing job on this model. Count me in as a follower!
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(inexpensive) Lathe recommendations
dvm27 replied to palmerit's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
What scale will you be working at? What is the largest spar or mast you plan to turn? While turning spars and masts on a lathe are possible it is not quite as simple as you might think. You need to consider the maximum swing over bed. My Sherline has 16" so I can turn larger spars and masts. But, even with a hole in the headstock, the maximum diameter wood that can pass through is 0.040". If you are turning long spars or masts you will encounter deflection so a steady rest would be highly recommended. No matter which lathe you purchase there is a learning curve and it will take some time before you turn out (literally) passable spars. It is actually very easy (and satisfying) to make a mast with just a chisel or miniature plane (the Veritas mini-plane is fantastic). Depending on the period you are working in, masts and spars were not always round over their entire length. Many had octagonal centers and tapered ends. You may wish to look at Volume 4 of The Fully Framed Model, by David Antscherl, for a complete description of how to hand make masts and spars. It's actually easy and much less expensive than purchasing a lathe. -
Very nice Jason. Get a Bic lighter and experiment with flashing it over the splices and bindings. It neatly removes much of the loose fibers radiating from the rope. Practice on some non-essential rope first!
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That's a shame because the Preac motor upgrade is fantastic. Quite honestly, I use my Preac table saw more than my Byrnes. It never binds or scorches the wood.
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HMS RESOLUTION 1667 by KarenM
dvm27 replied to KarenM's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
In the US and Canada we have the Veritas Mini plane. After honing on a diamond plate and leather stropping one can remove eyelash sized shavings from wood. It is now my goto tool for shaping. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/miniature-tools/planes/70138-veritas-miniature-block-plane?utm_campaign=USA|DSA|PageFeed|Tools|LowPriceTier&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9Km3BhDjARIsAGUb4nzO6oqLcoTrGhlXS0AtUbBIZp7pgIb9CxAkPUx80xbkGFnGMiAyBiQaAnEtEALw_wcB&item=05P8220 I am very much enjoying your build log -
I'd be happy with any of the above. The French vessels have a certain elegance that, in my opinion, is lacking in the British ships of the period. M. Delacroix is a member here. perhaps he has some insight into future Ancre publications.
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Ken, that was us (Admiralty Models). We closed up this year. Those were CNC turned brass which we got from overseas. Nowadays, I'd probably use one of the new 3D printed cannons that Syren Models sells. I'm sure they'll be available in the size you need in the near future.
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Byrnes Alternatives - Saw and Thickness Sander?
dvm27 replied to Jcredding's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have the Proxxon thickness sander but needed a blade swap out. I tried but was unsuccessful to get the blades aligned. I sent it to Proxxon in the US and six weeks later they told me they couldn’t get the blades aligned. I was unable to purchase a new one in the US without a motor conversion. So I am using the old one which leaves a small score in the wood from an uneven blade. I finish up with the Byrnes sander. It’s really a fabulous tool and it’s a shame it can’t be purchased in the US anymore. -
You might consider placing a garboard plank from the sternpost to the fore part of the stern deadwood. Then, add progressively shorter rows of planking above until the frame/deadwood joints are covered. Repeat in the bow section where, presumably, you have the same issue. I have seen some very lovely Navy Board models partially planked in this fashion. But before you do this please add some carpenters glue into the joints and run 120 or 150 grit sandpaper in the direction of the grain and see if some of those irregularities disappear.
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We had lofted a sheer plan and frames years ago. We sold a few of them but no one ever built a model of her to my knowledge. It’s a shame because she would be a beautiful model!
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The simplest solution, if you don't mind a bit of a compromise, is to end the brake pumps at the main deck. The bottom segment which protrudes into the well is invisible (hidden by planking and the mast partner).
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I looked into my cross section to see if I had the same problem but my pumps appear to have the proper clearance. If not, I would adjust the carlings by moving them a bit and or mortising to accommodate the pumps.
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I looked into my cross section to see if I had the same problem but my pumps appear to have the proper clearance. If not, I would adjust the carlings by moving them a bit and or mortising to accommodate the pumps.
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I always rig from the front to back and bottom to top.
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Congratulations on this significant milestone Johann. Having the discipline to fully rig all the yards will be paid back by rapid rigging of the rest of the model.
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Bravissimo, Giampiero! That's the cherry on the ice cream sundae.
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The key to these plank on frame models is planning ahead. In this case it's planning for the uppermost deck. By using the extended bitt pins you saved yourself a lot of aggravation later. Exceptional work Mike!
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Make sure to apply pencil marks to the inside and outside of every frame. It is very easy to identify the low spots this way. Once they start to disappear switch to 150 or 180 grit paper and sand with the grain. When all the pencil marks are gone your hull is faired. I usually start at the bottom and work my way up. You should really have the upper sill in place when fairing.
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You know, you could just scarph that keel joint and add the midsection and, if that goes well...
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Your meticulous research and execution really shows up in the above photo. Not a waver can be seen on any of the runs of planking or moldings. Such a pleasure to watch this model come together!
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Congratulations on a beautiful model! I'm stunned that you have made her into a coffee table. That wouldn't survive the weekend here after a grandchildren visit.
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