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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. dvm27
    This block making machine was discussed at Western ship model conference several years ago. It was indeed a wonder.There was talk of a commercial version but I never heard anything more of it. Perhaps the AAMM has more information.
  2. dvm27
    Lovely job on your ship's boat, Ryland. It shows a lot of care and attention to each and every detail.
  3. dvm27
    If you're building a fully framed model there is a lot of sanding on both surfacess of the frame. One could cut close to the line with a scroll saw and hand-finish it with files but I find the oscillating spindle sander increases both speed and accuracy 100%. You want one with several different drum sizes. The oscillating function minimizes the possible burning you get with a stationary drum sander. For the outside of the frames I use the Byrnes disk sander and oscillating spindle sander.
  4. dvm27
    A simple "Like This" will not suffice for a wheel of this beauty. I'd love to see the brass tubing in use. Not quite sure I get it 100%.
  5. dvm27
    Looks great Maury. I often am displeased when I look at my work with a macro lens. But since these minor imperfections are not visible to the naked eye we need to learn to ignore them.
  6. dvm27
    One of the conundrums of plank of frame building is that the more difficult areas of construction, the cants and hawse timbers, are addressed before the relatively easier full frames. Setting the cant frames at the proper angles as well as aligning with the half-breadth can be very challenging. I'd use the lucite jig on the fore face of the cant to insure the angle and a machinist square (http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H2993-Machinists-Square-4-Piece/dp/B0000DD4EE) to align with the haft breadth on the plan. I also leave a little extra wood on the fore face, as over-bevelling prior to fairing can cause major issues. Finally, don't be afraid to use isopropyl alcohol to remove a cant or hawse timber that doesn't look right. I don't know many plank on frame builders who have not had to redo one (or multiple) cants or hawse timbers.
  7. dvm27
    Greg H., I'd go with a good quality disk sander, such as the one made by Byrnes model Machines. Another Greg H.
  8. dvm27
    I've not seen it before on any model, Tony. The width and shape of the belfry match the Navy Board plans but one can't discern if it is twisted iron or not. The model is contemporary so I would assume the detail is accurate. I form very small loops with a jewelers round nosed pliers such as this http://www.all-spec.com/products/RX7590/image.viewer. You can form loops less than 1mm with these.
  9. dvm27
    Thanks or the many comments and likes. Nils - The forecastle ventilation scoop on the starboard side is the access to the fore platform. There is a small ladder in place. I imagine the scoop was removable for easier access to the platform. The forecastle also has a small access grating to load coal. Note that on the port side of the fore platform has a small scuttle or "coal hole" in load it into the hold. Remco - shockingly, I seem to have forgotten to photograph the completed galley stove prior to installation. I didn't overdo it as it will only be visible through some omitted planks on the forecastle.
  10. dvm27
    Lovely metal work, Chuck. She's no turkey.
  11. dvm27
    Never thought of using the thickness sander to finish the underside of the beam, Ed. Much easier than hand finishing each one to spec. Great tip!
  12. dvm27
    Been awhile since my last Speedwell update. Work on the forecastle has finished, for the most part. Caulking is black paper. It's a bit more work but a little cleaner than when I use a pencil. The wrought iron belfry is unusual but present on the contemporary model. I twisted 1/32" square brass bar stock with one end in a stationary vice and the other end in a pin vice. Consistent upward pressure while twisting insures an even result.
  13. dvm27
    Making a working hinge that looks exactly to scale is very impressive, Michael. Your work continues to inspire.
  14. dvm27
    Very nice job, Tony. I don't use the rotary table often but I can't imagine doing a precision job like this without one. The other application where it is terrific is when constructing the ships wheel.
  15. dvm27
    Beautiful symmetry and geometry Jeronimo! After several plank on frame models I really believe that cutting in the sills after all the frames are raised insures the sweetest line of ports. In that respect builders of French models are lucky in that the sills are much easier to execute than the angled mortises on British vessels.
  16. dvm27
    Since it's diluted and you only need small amounts I discard it after every use.
  17. dvm27
    Just perfect, Remco!
  18. dvm27
    So happy you joined our site, Glenn. It's clear why you do this for a living. Are you using a CNC attached to the mill for machining? It's so perfect I can't imagine you're not.
  19. dvm27
    You should be very pleased, Michael. Look forward to seeing them hinged.
  20. dvm27
    My nicest looking planking has resulted from gluing the tissue paper to the storck then slicing off planks of the proper thickness. See Remco's link here http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/410-hms-sphynx-by-alex-m-scale-148-english-20-gun-frigate-as-build-1775/?p=4274. The only problem is that the stock must be thicker than the widest plank and premium grade holly is hard to find these days.
  21. dvm27
    Best wishes on your Birthday and wishing you a speedy recovery. Hopefully you can get back to Confederacy soon. She's a beauty.
  22. dvm27
    Beautiful work, Karl. those half-lapped upper side timbers blew me away!
  23. dvm27
    Damn, there are some seriously talented Canadians among this group! Beautiful model Maury.
  24. dvm27
    Turn it into a Grandfather's clock case and your wife will be mollified!
  25. dvm27
    Lovely work, Mark. That's going to be one crazy looking case when finished.

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