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dvm27

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Everything posted by dvm27

  1. Thanks for the link, Robert. There are some great photos of your work there. Just beautiful! I am fortunate to live near the United States Naval Academy Museum with their large prisoner of war bone model collection. Here's a link to a video showing the collection narrated by the museum curator Don Preul. http://www.usna.edu/100Objects/Objects/object-03.php?iframe=true&width=770&height=580
  2. Don't feel bad about those machines, Jim. I do surgery for a living and still don't get as precise a cut as Druxey does with a chisel. But with my Byrnes arsonal I have no problem getting perfect joints in a very quick manner. I like to think if Byrnes Model Machines were around in the 1700's every model shop in the shipyard would have a complete set to build their navy board models. As a matter of fact, they did have lathes, only they were foot powered.
  3. Maury, My interpretation of the main mast step is that the bottom portion is flush with the top of the lip cut for the limber strake. Whether it runs parallel to the keelson (as you've penciled on the illustration) or angles up towards the keelson I can't say. The drawing in Goodwin is not clear here. I think the limber channel would need to be continuous from fore to aft and that the main mast step would not impede this. I think the bottom edge of your step should start in the lip mortised for the limber strake and follow the angle of the strake as it fays into the top of the keelson. Perhaps others can help here.
  4. Beautiful carving and beautiful cockatoo (Rose breasted?).
  5. Beautiful work Ilhan. Your color pallet of woods is quite lovely.
  6. Your Le Coureur is a lovely model. Lapstrake planking for a first model is quite challenging. Tres bien, fait, Monsieur!
  7. Great setup, Bob. Is that spindle sander a Jet?
  8. Marvelous anchors Karl. How did you simulate the iron finish on the wood.l?
  9. This book is a Master Class in ship modelling. Few of us will ever attain the level of skill shown by M. Frolich but we can certainly drool over the beautiful photos of his models. Whether used to improve one's skill-set or simply purchased as a coffee table book you won't be disappointed.
  10. Not on this list, Dan! But we will commiserate with you.
  11. Looking good, Rusty. Now the real fun begins!
  12. Welcome aboard Dan and I'm thoroughly enjoying you Swan construction techniques. We have many Swans on this site but they are a couple of hundred years older!
  13. Looks excellent, Maury. I like the finish also.
  14. Love those Robert's style plate knees, Ed. I've also found photo-etching to be a bit of the black arts, like blackening.
  15. She's a beautiful model and the ship's boats are the icing on the cake. I hope you gave her an equally beautiful setting.
  16. Maury, II would continue using the older version of the plan with the 12" deep keel and keep taking the lines of her as before. The only modification you will need to make is to narrow the filling planks below the lower clamp by 2" total.
  17. Ply, MDF or Home Depot shelving are all fine. I added 1" x 1" x 1/4" square feet to each corner to allow room for the mounting bolts.
  18. Excellent work, Danny! Looks just like David's illustrations. Cooler still I'll bet the wheel turns when you rotate the crank.
  19. Just beautiful work, Nico. I had not seen the motor before. It looks like the real thing from a distance. Was it a kit?
  20. Well, that's a terrific place to break, Toni. She looks amazing!
  21. I used bamboo treenails for all, Maury. There aren't that many on the cross-section. Plus, I had one frame break at the chock joint while fairing. The treenails were still intact and served as perfect guides for the futtock relocation.
  22. Naw...I'm not throwing down the gauntlet to Remco. I just thought he'd appreciate the beautiful detail. It's certainly possible that the molded detail might be an embellishment on the part of the ship modeller.
  23. Ben, I use a 6-32 tap and a no. 36 drill bit.
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