dvm27
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Everything posted by dvm27
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I really love your wood color palate, Gary. Is that Swiss pear for the beams, riders etc? -
I found that moving the blade towards the disk mounted in the lathe gave me better control of the cuts
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If you could power that up it looks like it would work, Paul. Terrific stuff. All of your seemingly different materials look perfect after painting. Have you described the painting process in any of your photos? What do you fill in the seems with (at cardboard joints)?
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Echo by oneslim - cross-section
dvm27 replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
For those attending the workshop I will have a table saw if you want to redo your scored rising wood the way bob did. -
Echo by oneslim - cross-section
dvm27 replied to oneslim's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Sorry I missed your posting before, Bob. You get an A+ for the homework and extra credit for the fancy-pants acrylic squaring jig! Greg -
No need for me to re-post my log, Mario. I'll just let your log set the standard. Very well done! Greg
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Terrific technique for getting all those mortises lined up, Mark. I like that scoring tool also!
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Check out Jerzy's site http://www.jbmodel.eu/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=47_52&products_id=629http://www.jbmodel.eu/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=47_52&products_id=629. His blocks are quite good
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Ed, are those spring loaded clamps in the last photo home made or purchased?
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Terrific fix and beautiful model, Ron!
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Furled , unfurled or no sails -Preference
dvm27 replied to Canada Steve's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I'm not a huge fan of furled sails in static models but only because they usually appear over-scale and bulky. However, it can be done, and to good effect. For example see http://www.shipmodels.com.ua/eng/models/elite/le_rivoli/index.htm and the beautiful work of Dr. Mike. I've read somewhere that decreasing the canvas (model sail) size by 25% helps keep proportions correct. -
I also use carpenters glue exclusively for the simple reason that I can debond it when I screw up. Something we Swan class builders get very good at!
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Then you, Sir, would have made a fine surgeon! The symmetry of your cuts, especially the port holes is amazing. I love models of this period but wonder where one displays them, due to their size.
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Probably just a temporary brain freeze Toni but you wouldn't see a chock from the outside, only the joint between the frames. The outside looks the same regardless of whether the joint is chocked or scarphed. To be honest, I am using chocked joints on Speedwell simply because I find them easier to do.
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Dave, Your list is a bit generic so far. If you are building from kits The Period Ship Handbook series by Keith Julier is excellent. If you're scratch building The Fully Framed Model series by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert or Ships of the American revolution and Their Models by Harold Hahn are essential. For general reference of that period Arming and Fitting by Brian Lavery and Englishman of War by Peter Goodwin are essential. Chuck Passaro's practicums and building manuals are terrific for the middle.
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I'm thoroughly enjoying the reposting of these excellent logs. Those ribbands on your fully framed hull demonstrate how truly fair you've made her. Quite an elegant hull.
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That's funny, Ben. Many years ago my wife asked me what I wanted for my 40th birthday present. I told her I wanted to spend a few days in Harold Hahn's workshop. She thought I was kidding. I was not!
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ancre LE BONHOMME RICHARD by Jeronimo - FINISHED
dvm27 replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Beautiful, Karl! It looks like the French were very fond of poulet.- 662 replies
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Great job on getting those pump angles right, Ed. I had trouble lining up just four!
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Thank you gentlemen! Erik, for the tarred joints I use acid free black paper (craft and artists supply stores have this) and white glue. Depending on the joint I'll use thicker or thinner paper and the edges are shaved clean with a blade. I would strongly suggest preparing a test wood/paper/wood sandwich first and applying the finish you prefer as a test to make sure the paper doesn't bleed onto the wood surface. Finally, I perforate the surface of the paper between joints with a pin to make sure glue adequately penetrates through to the other side. I also make sure to use treenails or fasteners in these joints. As yet haven't had a joint failure. I've also used carpenters glue tinted with aniline dye powders. This works well too but is a holy mess.
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ancre LE BONHOMME RICHARD by Jeronimo - FINISHED
dvm27 replied to Jeronimo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Welcome back, Karl. You are truly the master of the sectional model!- 662 replies
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More than likely, these Navy Board models were built as collaborations under the supervision of the Master Shipwright. The team consisted of master carvers, jewelers and apprentice shipwrights. Little is known of them but a few have left notes behind hidden in the models and have recently been discovered via endoscopes. One excellent reference on the builders and their models is Ship Models, Their Purpose and Development from 1650 to the Present, by Brian Lavery and Simon Stevens.
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Those frames look terrific, Mario. Your system is working well. Greg
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Cool jig, Alex. May I assume those joints are silver soldered as the last step?
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It's ironic that you overcame modeler's block by modelling blocks. They're quite perfect, as usual. As an aside when I'm facing similar burnout I usually end up cleaning the shop and starting on something simple.
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