Mike Y

Really admire your courage to do the reconstruction instead of saying "meh, will make it right on a next model"! 

Now it would be definitely right.

Hope you loved the Arkowood wood? The stash looks nice!

 

Very impressive tiling, was not expecting it to be so red. Where have you got it? Also arkowood?

Thanks for the nice words and likes! That really helps to find more modelling time

 

Finally got the micro-drill working, so now the clamp installation goes faster.

After marking the treenail locations with the pencil, they are accentuated with the scriber (I know, bad use for the scriber):

 

That is required to avoid the drill wobble, it is not very balanced (chinese crap):

 

And then install the boxwood treenails - these ones are not just for looks, they are injected at least few millimiters into the frames and glued, hope that will make a strong bond between frames and deck clamps, to avoid the hull cracking and twisting during the dry winter months. 

Forward and aft frames could be bolted safer by drilling shallow holes from each side independently, after initial pre-beveling. That is easier to do comparing with a full-depth single hole. Nobody wll find out that you have two short bolts instead of a single long one

Did it on my model, worked like a charm, even on a really bevelled frames.

Hoorray! This is a major milestone indeed!

One thing about the finish - if you use oil, be ready that it might sip through the frame and end up on the inner side as well. Testing on a few scrap frames would be useful

It sounds impossible, especially with grain running along the futtock, but happened for me. If that will be the case for your finish as well - probably better to apply it after gluing in the deck clamps and inner planking, if you plan any?

Thinking about it was the scariest part.  There were a few little slips that nicked adjacent frames, but overall it went well.

I was wrapping both adjacent frames with multiple layers of the masking tape to protect it when cutting (gunports, in my case). It took a lot of time, but was working efficiently enough, because the blade slipped a few times.

That cutoff process looks scary, but seems like you did it without any mistakes! Looks great!

Carl, now I have the goal!

My modelling progress is quite slow,  barely find few hours per week to work on it.

Still installing various deck clamps:

 

Using scrapers to make the final shaping of the clamps when they are already installed. Straight or curved, depending on a section:

 

 

And a final polish with a straight xacto blade, it barely removes any material, but leaves a nice finish, better than sandpaper for such tight locations:

Quite unexpectedly ended up in Hamburg maritime museum. Unfortunately I only had 45min to visit it, and the museum is big - 9 floors of maritime history! It was also full of great models, including Oliver Cromwell! I was really surprised to see it in the museum, considering a very boring history behind that ship. 

The model is good, seems to be done in a fully framed manner, but 95% planked. There is a small opening in the bottom of the hull, which is barely visible. 

Sorry for the poor photo quality, museum has a soft light which makes it cozy, but hard to make photos (especially on a phone)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Decor:

Nice and easy - if you happen to have a mill and know how to set it up properly , Mike!

 

True, and it is also a matter of taste - some prefer to master the hand tools, some prefer to use mills for such precision tasks

 

 

Probably, but you need to know how to work with a mill first!!!

Well, this sort of task does not require any milling experience - it was my first thing to cut, worked like a charm from the first attempt.

Just fix the plank in the vice, follow the steps, re-measure twice if not sure, done!

No intricate setup.

This is where mill is very handy - I can easilly make joints on 2-8 planks at the same time (assuming the same thickness), and they would be perfectly fit in all dimensions, tight and with a consistent angle. It takes about 8-10min for the batch including the setup. And no need for the careful markup - just make sure that all planks have the same angle in the mill vice.

Without mill, it was a lot of fitting, took around 30min per joint (instead of 10 for a number of joints), and it was hard to get tight fit on a thick stock.

Cutting perfect scarfs by hand is a skill to learn, doing it with a mill is a simple procedure that does not require any skill. Easy-peasy! One of the biggest reasons that pushed me to buy the mill.

 

Here are some basic pictures of the process. I use a wooden "template" that fits under the planks inside the vice to ensure correct angle.

 

 

 

Impressive model!

Still trying to figure out how the mold would be disassembled.

Very nice wood as well!

Looks great! The bolts are tricky, luckily you just got close to them.

One should have a corage to touch such an elegant hull with 80 grit!

Chocks form a nice contrast "dotted line", good idea!

Hm, gently push the bit up after untightening it - and it would be released.

The reason why it gets "stuck" is because the collet is getting squeezed into the chuck when you tighten it.

Never tried to hit my mill with a mallet, that sounds a bit rough

MF70 is a tiny mill that looks quite gentle. 

Really like your approach, it is a pleasure to read. So organised! 

The build board is truly great, I am envious

Thanks for all the warm words, it is very encouraging!

The treenailing itself is in progress and mostly done, but no photos yet. Realised that hand drill is not the way to go - takes 15-20sec to drill each hole, and fingertips are hurting after a hundred of holes. Building process should be a pleasure, so need to change the process to make it enjoyable

Not enough space to use the rotary tool, even the mini dremel. Ordered a tiny chuck and a small motor, should be enough to make a micro drill.

It was a pleasure to follow, your website is now my goto link for people interested in modelling!

Looking forward to follow your next project!

Been busy with apartment renovations - painting, painting, painting, and replacing all floors with a nice oak hardwood

Finally back to modelling!

 

Treenailing the deck clamp, with a plastic pattern to mark holes accurately:

 

Very elegant! Like how smooth an thin the top parts of the frames are.

Thank you, amazing videos!

 

Sadly, the replica is now up for sale. Hope a good buyer will show up!

http://www.thelocal.se/20160527/giant-replica-of-swedish-18th-century-ship-up-for-sale

Chuck, thank you for the very detailed explanation, it is totally clear now. Makes sense, and both models and the approach you have is amazing. Best wishes and hope to see them both in the market! And especially thanks for introducing a proper wood out of the box. 

Hope it will hit the market soon and would be a success!

Maybe I have some wrong bamboo... It looks very uneven.

Did a test. Swiss pear, tung oil as finish.

Two photos done with different lightning.

 

Top plank, left: brass

Top plank, middle: castello boxwood

Top plank, right: copper

Bottom plank: bamboo

 

 

 

 

Horray, innovation!

I will truly miss the Lego jigs and pesky wood strips, they were a small bits of fun

Based on the explanation it all sounds very smart, especially the vertical line idea combined with such a board.

Just a bit worried if the kit will end up too simple? Looking on a photos, where is the challenge?

No jokes intended, would be interesting to hear your thoughts about the right balance when it comes to difficulty. Longboat or pinnace was a very fun build because it was just on a sweet spot!