Mike Y

Hmm! I was following the common sense that "it is better to use wood dye for wood, not the shoe dye". Probably I was wrong.. Will test the shoe dye as well!

Although I am pretty happy with the look of the water-based wood dye. Soft, monotone, even, a little bit grainy, exactly what I need for wales. But might be too fluffy for small parts.

druxey, thanks for the advice! Will try it as well. Hope it would not be too far away from pear, because getting holly in Europe is reeeeally expensive (ordering in US + intercontinental shipping + import tax + customs fees). I bought a bit for boats (yes, like the one on your picture, dreaming of making something similar)

Thanks Karl! Yes, I am also quite surprised with her passion to building stuff, and trying to feed this passion by showing her different techniques, materials, doing it together, encouraging, etc. No matter what career path she will choose, an engineering mindset will never hurt! 

This time she also dictated her first post in the build log. I just translated it to english with minimal syntax corrections:

I am building this ship with my dad. He helps me, but I build it myself. I am a Daughter Daria.

We are making a ship body (hull). I am gluing the parts:

This is the center of the ship, I insert the parts here:

And remove an extra glue with a stick:

We used clamps to help the glue stick parts together:

I also made some wooden things with a file. These things are now inside the ship.

Here we glued the deck. It was hard to fit all that parts at the same time!

Our ship will be big! With a long masts and big sails. We will ship some things, food, paintings and curtains on it, as well as toys and doll stuff. 

Proper photo update is coming soon, but in a meanwhile - a little bit about the kit.

It sure has a lot of notches and parts connected by inserting them into that notches. 

The problem is that all that connections are too tight. Nothing could be inserted without filing it first. Using the brute force can lead to cracks and broken parts, and I hate doing it this way. Fine fitting connections + wood glue are better than brute force

So before she can build the next step - I spend some time with a file, knife and chisel, making sure everything fits. Frankly, that is quite tedious and boring. As you can see, the kit has hell lot of notches! And every single one should be enlarged with a file.

Mike,

 

I still have a chunk of Ebony that I used for the wales of my OC. It bends over steam very well. If you pm me your shipping adress I'll be happy to send you some to try it out.

 

Peter

Peter, thanks a lot for the suggestion, I truly appreciate it!

I have some ebony as well (used it for the false keel), but would try to avoid it because of the nasty dust, its hardness and a massive cleaning required after any operation with ebony. (I do not have a workshop or a dust collection system).

Looks like dyed pear is a good substitute...

In a meanwhile, tested different ebony dyes on pear. This is a lighter pear, the one that was included into the timbering set from Lumberyard. Should be perfect for the purpose, colour deviation makes no difference if you put a dye on it

Found two dyes available, both from Liberon, one is water-based, another is spirit-based. Water-based works as I expected, but does not penetrate the wood deep enough. The spirit one is very weird, not a uniform structure, looks dirty and does not give a consistent colour. You can't apply multiple coats of it, the instruction says "second coat can tear out the first coat". But penetrates the wood better than the water-based (cut off a few slices to check that). Okay...

On this photo, spirit-based dye is in the bottom, and water-based is on top, near the corresponding can:

Close-up (sorry, on this photo and all other photos - water-based is in the bottom, spirit-based is on top):

Then applied different finishes on them.

Again, water-based dye is in the bottom, spirit-based dye is on top.

Left side - no finish applied at all.

Center - three coats of danish oil

Right side - two coats of tung oil.

Now I will cover half of each section with the paper, and put this test piece into direct sunlight for a while, until it would be a time to install wales. So I probably have a year

The idea is to see how a certain finish will change over time, exposed to UV. 

Will follow up!

I got a few questions "where to buy the kit". My friend bought it in Russia and gave it to me, it is a cheapest option. 

I also found it on ebay, the seller has a 100% rating and looks like a producer of the kit. So maybe buying it directly from the producer via ebay is better.

ebay.co.uk: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mk0302p-Schooner-Polotsk-Wooden-Kit-wood-ship-1-72-model-master-korabel-/112015347120

ebay.com: http://www.ebay.com/itm/mk0302p-Schooner-Polotsk-Wooden-Kit-wood-ship-1-72-model-master-korabel-/112015347120

It is a "plus" version (with a boat kit included, and a better block quality), so a bit more expensive. The kit I bought is a regular one - no boat and the blocks are simpler.

That is a very pedantic wood sorting! Does not look like an accident that planks with a bit darker tone and perfectly symmetrical!

Your black is super good!

Thanks everybody for the encouragement! Yes, we are talking about what the online communities are, what the build log is, and she is going to make the photos (and maybe a comment) for the next post It is good to know that our community is really the best when it comes to kindness and sharing!

This collective modelling brainstorm is a true joy to read! Thank you for sharing with that level of details!

Really delicate!

How do you solder them? I would expect the heat to transfer really fast, you heat one area and all joints around it pop loose...

Hm, Mark, not sure I understand. After each pass the wood gets thinner, so the center piece needs to be adjusted every time?

Yes, pre-spiled planking for beginner kits is a must. I do not have the hard statistics, but the feeling is that a lot of beginners stop the build during the planking.

First part - assembling the skeleton, bulkheads and keel - is quite simple and takes few evenings. Then - decks, that are also fairly easy. And then most of kits suggest to plank the hull with a set of thin and straight planks, which is dramatically more different comparing with all the previous phases of the build.

So I really hope that pre-spiled planking will make this kit available for kids. With some simplifications, for sure. Will see.

Really impressed with the kit quality!

The laser cutting is super accurate, the kerf is minimal:

All bevels are pre-marked, so you just follow the lines:

The ply is good, very uniform, no defects, middle layers are not falling apart:

Super impressive for the $95 kit. It is the quality you would expect from the $400-$500 range.

Frames are inserted into clear slots in the base board, that ensure perfect alignment.

Notches in the frames and keel are a bit too tight, so all notches and all parts require some filing to fit. That was a bit unexpected, and too tedious for my daughter (so far), so I spend some time filing.. Meh, boring task

But there is a steady progress

End result of the first two modelling sessions:

The "building board" is, apparently, a permanent part of the hull (lower deck), the upper parts would be installed on top of it. Interesting idea!

The kit: 

Super detailed plans:

Fine parts:

Castings:

Laser cut parts:

Laser cut finish level of planking and transom and other parts:

Building jig:

I am going to build this kit with my daughter. She was really insisting on building her own wooden ship, like daddy's. Seems to even be ready that it will take a year. Will see, will see, she seems to be really interested 

The kit is a 1777 schooner in 1:72 scale made by russian manufacturer Master Korabel (translated as "Master Shipwright").

Laser cut planking, nice wood, seems to be very well thought through!

Includes few PE sheets, very nice castings (anchors and cannons), all fittings have a good quality. The laser cutting is top notch and plywood is high quality as well.

Best part - the price is $95!

Despite having english text on the box, all instructions are in russian. But maybe photo manual would be enough?

Here is the link to the manual, it answers most of questions about this kit construction: http://forum.master-korabel.com/mk0302f.pdf

Some build logs for the ones who are curious:

http://forum.modelsworld.ru/topic13151.html

http://serikoffshipmodels.com/forum/6-576-1

Got a few questions "where to buy the kit". My friend bought it in Russia and gave it to me, it is a cheapest option. 

I also found it on ebay, the seller has a 100% rating and looks like a producer of the kit. So maybe buying it directly from the producer via ebay is better.

ebay.co.uk: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mk0302p-Schooner-Polotsk-Wooden-Kit-wood-ship-1-72-model-master-korabel-/112015347120

ebay.com: http://www.ebay.com/itm/mk0302p-Schooner-Polotsk-Wooden-Kit-wood-ship-1-72-model-master-korabel-/112015347120

It is a "plus" version, so a bit more expensive. The kit I bought is a regular one - no boat and the blocks are simpler.

The main goal is to enjoy the process together, learn the handcraft and generally have fun. In the end, I would be super proud of her if she will have enough stamina to finish the hull and plank it. That would be quite an achievement for 6 years old.

I will try to show that kit in details, please pardon for the build quality - I am letting her to do as much as possible, not focusing too much on quality and accuracy. Step by step

Experimenting with different ways to make a smooth arc-shaped curves, like for deck beams. Right now I need it for the transom, but the methods are the same, and should be used later for beams.

Luckily I have a "template" of a proper curve - laser cut beams from the timbering set.

Clamped that template to the mill, shaped the outside curve on a disk sander, and the inside curve - by slowly feeding the wood against the mill cut. Shallow passes..

It sort of works, but the main problem is making sure the wood is sliding along the template without twisting. Right now I do it with the fingers, one finger to the left of the cutter, one to the right of the cutter. Does not work very good - the chance of mistake or a wrong move is quite high, and the risk of injury is high.

I got some nicks and dents:

Nicks could be removed by sanding later on, but that kills the idea of precision milling. So I need some sort of tension that will allow to slide the wood against the template. 

Or maybe I just use the wrong approach. Will try a method described in TFFM (also on a mill, but the template shape is different). Would appreciate some advices!

Great idea with the "glue pockets"!

Incredible accuracy and precision! Everything is so clearly marked up... Will use it is a reference, a good reminder that precise model requires careful measurements, markups and reference lines.

Planking lines are soo smooth! I can go on and on and on please keep the pictures coming!

Carl, you can try googling "model craft saw set", plenty of shops in Europe that have it. Even amazon: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Modelcraft-1-Piece-Precision-Saw-Set/dp/B001JJXE9A/ref=pd_bxgy_201_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0MN1DH0GSEF1Q8CSJK38

They are compatible with stabdard scalpel handle.

Druxey, thanks!

Interesting saw blades. I wonder who is the manufacturer/distributor?

It is sold under a brand of a swedish company Model Craft AB. Unclear what is the original manufacturer... 

I quickly googled that you can find that in US, for example, here:

http://www.modelcrafttoolsusa.com/saws-sawblades/862-replacement-saws-for-pkn0008-k.html

http://www.modelcrafttoolsusa.com/saws-sawblades/864-replacement-saws-for-pkn0009-k.html

Super! Every time you update the log, I want to write that - but need to stop myself to avoid polluting it too much

Your build quality (and speed) is hard to match!

Progress is very slow, spent just an hour in the workshop

Installed remaining counter timbers. Transom is quite skewed, so impossible to achieve a proper symmetry - but I hope I will hide most of it when planking one side of it. The goal is to align windows on planked side with the counter timbers on the unplanked one.

Now fairing the timbers, the outermost counter timbers had a wrong angle.

File is good enough for it:

Btw, found a very nice scalper saw blades in the local hobby shop, was positively surprised! They could be found by "model craft saw set" query, and exist in two types. 

Love reading your log, feels like building it myself these "inline" comments on the photos are very handy!