Wintergreen

Nice photos Mario. I like the shadows underneath.

12 hours ago, BETAQDAVE said:

    (Maybe you should write a book about it someday.)

Dave, that is exactly what he does. Go to seawatchbooks.com and you will find three volumes from EdT. (maybe you knew this already, and then, maybe you didn't.)

Excellent books by the way. I have one of them on my shelf (Naiad vol I).

G.L. it really looks tarred. Well executed I must say.

I'm with druxey on this one... it is just crazy many lines and blocks... pristine work Ed.

Nice chisels also. I'm sure they are a joy to use.

Knee surgery you say. Been climbing too many towers, maybe? Let's hope for a swift recovery whence its done.

And on the subject of learning... with all issues you learn a lot. As a colleague said at work, "if it was easy, they wouldn't pay us.."

Take a break when stuck and as you do, ask the intelligentsia out here for advice.

Keep it up, mate!

Mario? You're back!

Cant give any technical advice here just cheer you on. 😁

Boy, my chair was dusty... where's the popcorn btw?

That's quite a view you've got from your shop windows there, Mark.

Lovely model also ;-)

Vaddoc, you are quite right.

I did try both with battens and lines, but the hull is so small and it all was too fiddly at the time. Maybe I give it another go later. Will see.

So, there he was, peacefully cutting pieces for a new mould. Everything was in order and the "flow" was with him.
Sanding bulkheads, cutting slots and all. Dry fitted every bulkhead on the backbone to see it was a reasonably tight fit.
When all slots were cut (nice fit all over) and a closer inspection was carried out it dawn on the builder that, somehow, someone, had cut slots in the backbone to the wrong side of the station line. Leaving no option to sand a bevel on any bulkhead, bar no 5, which is the deadflat one.

Well, it was time for coffee anyway...

Returning to the shop the builder carefully cut a new backbone. Carefully cut new slots to receive bulkheads, this time slots were cut on correct side of station lines. Nice fit all together. Dry-fitting. Needed a square block for gluing parts together.
Finding clamps and on went Titebond. One in place, square and all. No 5 it was. Looked for 4 or 6 as next option only to realize that no 5 still was resting on the tabletop... quickly eased pieces apart and decided it was time to call it a day...

To be continued...

Nice progress!

Doris, 

Regarding the Riksäpplet study, if there is something I know, that would be Swedish... pm me if there is something you want translated.

Again, thanks for likes and comments!

Just a quick status update here.

Paul - I dislike cleaning just as much as my teenagers. It's done on a need to-basis. Not before.

John - that is also my conclusion. Not that the planks are cut down, but the curve too wide. Tapering needs to start from the 2nd station going forward and dito aft. Otherwise there will be this build-up that my hull shows.

8th row in place and I think it is time to do the restart. At the stern it is clearly visible that the planks don't meet in height. Otherwise I am surprised over my accomplishment in this build. I never thought it would come this far without a mental break-down somewhere along the way. 

The weather forecast looks promising for shop time and not so much for varnishing on the 1:1. A fair bit below zero coming week.

Lets see where that takes me in this.

To be continued...

Is that Elena?

well, there is always time for coffee, or tea... we're with you on this one, Mark.

Work continues, 

first one of those rare grossly close-ups to show the rabbet at the stem.

And then, more planks convinced to stay in place. Hm... why does Gulliver and the land of Lilliput come to mind, I wonder...

Hi guys, 

I'm glad for likes and questions. 

Mark - yes, it is very much "by the eye". From the dead flat the builder can approximate the number of strakes needed, but the run... that's where I failed. That has to be done by eye. At stem and stern almost no plank has the same width. Try, and try again...

Druxey - I thought someone would eventually ask that question. No, they have an overlap all the way. From the book I learned that the last 6" get a bevel to half the thickness. And the coming plank is treated so as well, a bevel on the lower inside, closest to the stem/stern. That way the planks fit nicely and flush in the rabbet. (well, not SO nicely on my work, but nothing some sanding can't hide).

Now, it is back to the shop for some more planks...

Great build Keith. 

About the prop placement. Can it be that the engine is post-fitted? I have seen it in magazines before. Maybe those that fitted the engine did not want to drill through the stern, which is quite a significant piece of wood and hence also didn't want to redo the rudder?

Keith... now what? Any teaser for a next build?

Thanks for the likes and comments. Always appreciated.

Vaddoc, I think you remember correct. Up here it is well known that all clinker built boats needs a good soaking before they float. That is also true for many carvel built ones. I had a skerry qruiser once, carvel built. First season I cared for her she float when launched much to the disappointment for all old salts that "knew" she would sink like a rock.
Second season I did not have the time to care for her and she sank like a crayfish cage...

About hull shape.
No, definitely not by eye only. The builder used moulds or templates as can be seen here.

And I mimic that with my crude basic structure. However, to get the shape shapely is another matter.
Let me show you.
Bow view. Looks okay. No major problems.

Stern view. The planks meet the stern timber with an exaggerated arc. 

Viewed from below the lines look okay. (Aft to the left).

But viewed from aside the aft section of the planking can be seen to do an uneasy bend.

(Aft to the right)

This is why I already from the start stated that this was the practice run. Otherwise I would have a hard time accepting it. Right now it is "good enough". Hopefully I can counteract this on my second try.

Side information. Above the backing plates are easily noticed. I put it on a scale and it weighed a whopping 8 grams/0.28 oz... sneeze and you will launch into straight off the bench...

What John and Pat said.

Smashing!

Thanks for checking in. Work progresses, albeit a bit slow.

Regarding the Viking long boats. I think the design worked in their favour. Both building rather big ships that sailed the North sea and Atlantic as well as their raids up on rivers in Russia and elsewhere. 
Up river, when they came to a stream, they "just" hauled the boat out of the water and got some logs to roll it on until they'd got past the culprit. You don't do that with a 16th-17th square rigger...

Anyway, 5th strake is on. In the book, the 5th round is where he used three boards instead of two. I missed that and will cut the 6th strake in three pieces instead. Joggling the scarphs as I progress.

The shape is really hard to get right. The last couple of strakes are adjusted in-situ.

And a picture for reference..

To be continued...

Hej Mike,

I confess, I just ran through your log, but what you've achieve so far looks great.

And in the living room... I silently went "holy c**p" when I saw the picture after you planed the planks...

Let me grab a chair here at the side and I will cheer you on as you go.

That's a nice shipyard you have there. Well lit and well organized. A tad too tidy for my taste though ;-)

Nah, just kidding. I do clean my shop from time to time, but I make it a mess again in no time.

I envy your floor where you actually can see the small pieces that regularly are lost.

Thanks for likes and comments and thoughts.

Unusual or not, I can't really tell. Yes, the hull is held on the frames with rubber bands as can be seen in an earlier post. I've seen other small boat projects where the keel structure is fixed to the mould but I thought it more convenient if it was removable (or the truth told, I didn't figure out how to make it stick...).

Since it is removable it is far simpler to look at the lines and correct when needed (not if needed...).

About the backing pieces for the scarfs. Good point, in IRL they are 9-10" long, scaled down that is 7,7-8,5 mm long. Mine are 9 mm. However it is a just comment, and I will shorten them slightly moving upwards.

Frames and other stuff will be added once the hull is completed. Like it's done in full scale.

Not that I have a B Sc in boat building of small crafts even though I've read a fair deal about it. But for small crafts it is very common here in Scandinavia this clinker technique. Pros are it makes for a light, flexible hull.  Reference is a Viking long boat. Early findings from the first centuries shows that lapstrake in one way or another was how the boats were built in northern Europe. My guess is that the overlap made it simpler to get them watertight. It is not until medieval times carvel came in practice up here. Driving factor was probably merchant and armed navies that required bigger stronger hulls.

Well, that was my 2 cents of knowledge ;-)

It is an interesting discussion though.

Cheers!

Lovely detailing Thomas.

Okey, last post for the weekend.

Four strakes are on. As Vaddoc noted, they seemed to run high at the stem. Which I knew. This being learning by doing.

But, since wood is such a nice material to work with, things can be adjusted.

First picture. Before.

Second picture. After chisel and sandpaper.

I also have trouble amidships with the run of the planks dipping. No picture on that. Just a note to self.

Have a nice week!