glbarlow

I have my Speedy on hand and will be starting it soon, so watching your build. 

my suggestion is to bring it forward to align with that center keel piece, a little extra space at the stern isn't going to hurt anything, it will be planked over on top across the back. My two cents without knowing the rest of the build plans.

5 hours ago, Chuck said:

Actually I cant answer those for your particular hull.  Its your lining off of the hull that will best determine if you need a drop plank and how many.  I would probably go ahead and use one.  Most folks think they can bypass the lining off process but its best to do it....I use wide tape and trial and error to find the shape of the drop plank.  Your lining off will determine the shape of the garboard.

 

The french curve is only needed if you are going to cut and draw out your planks on a wider sheet.  For example the drop plank.

 

There is no real 100% scientific method for figuring the shape of the drop plank.   You need shape it and then use a paper template to test its fit and its shape up against the wales.  

 

Chuck

Promise, I'm following your tutorial and will do the lining off process as best I can.  I'm going to learn this on the little model I'm working on now so I can transfer the knowledge the HM Speedy later.

I'll read everything and watch the videos multiple times - and see how it all comes together.  My hull is pretty much the standard cutter shape. I appreciate your making the time to answer my dumb questions.

Chuck,

I’ll try to limit my dumb questions but I am determined to relearn planking using your method. So sorry in advance...

1. May I ask you to explain the drop plank and how to install a simple version, is it critical on a small model or can/should I just start bending planks below the Wales.

2. What’s the best way to determine the curve and start/stop point of the garboard plank?  I’ve always done one but  they haven’t been pretty...

3. And...I bought a French curve (and artist tape and wide low tack tape, I’m all in😂) but must profess I have no idea how to use it to transfer the curve with it?

I hope you don’t mind the questions, every time I watch your videos I marvel at how that plank just lays there so perfectly. 
 

Thanks for asking. I’ll likely do one here when I start the HMS Speedy later this year.  The second time around on the planking may be more informative. I’m looking forward to building this Chris Watten kit. 
 

I’m working on figuring out Chuck’s method, but haven’t sorted it out just yet. For example I bought a French curve because he shows one in his marking the ship tutorial to transfer the curve but so far I have no clue how to do that 🤣😂. I will have questions once I get into the second planking this coming week. 
 

I enjoyed and learned from your Vanguard build as well, as I recall we were both building her at the same time. I still wish I’d kept an offline copy of my Pegasus build, it was my best effort at a log..gone in the great systems crash.

square dowels are ones that are not round and answer that age old question of how you fit a square peg in a round hole - just jam it in there.

I placed my order for Vanguard Models HMS Speedy from here in Texas on January 24th, it arrived today, the 29th. That's pretty exceptional service coming from the UK.

If anyone has reservations about this kit, please allow me to help you set them aside. I've unboxed a lot of kits including the very expensive Amati Vanguard. I've never seen a kit so well packed. The heavy duty cardboard outer sleeve ensured there was not even a crinkle on the kit box. Everything inside was wrapped in separate plastic bags or boxes and all that wrapped in bubble wrap so nothing was  moving around inside the box. I have never seen pearwood before and wasn't sure what to expect, I've still only looked, not worked any of it yet, but it seems marvelous - a major major step up from the standard walnut. The laser work is top notch as well. I had a few reservations when I saw Chris was doing that at home now, those were completely unfounded. The upside of doing his own is he can do it exactly the way he wants and include what he wants... and so he includes a lot of detailed stuff.  I've never seen this quality of an instruction book and I'm not limiting that to models, I suppose the manuals that came with my BMW are more detailed, but that's about it. The details in the plans are exceptional as well.

Modelers can and should buy this kit without reservations. This is a whole new league of model kits.  I'm going to be really tempted, for the first time, to build the kit just as it is with what came in it. I really don't think I need to replace anything.

Admiral Cochrane dropped by my Pegasus to say hello. I put him alongside a silly little stickman I did years ago to have some personal reference as to the size of people on the ship (it never stayed there, don't judge:-).  Looks like I was pretty close seeing him next to the admiral.

Nice Job Chris (and Chris’ wife who packs the boxes)!

You may want to score your split with a slight saw cut on both sides. You’ll be breaking off all the tabs later, scoring will make that a little easier. 

That makes sense, I encountered it doing the practice runs.  The strip is longer than the ship, so no problem with wasting the front.

That's great Chuck, thank you very much!! I need to go experiment with my new Chuck planking station ( I need smaller clamps, I have really big and really small:-). I have plenty of walnut strips to sacrifice.  I just ordered artist tape from Amazon, that makes so much more sense than trying to draw lines or placing "battons." 

Next up, marking the ship

just a piece of scrap wood, I may need to remake the curve piece. I did this on the fly just to see how it works.

Thank you Chuck!  I've looked at so many other techniques and after 8 models have my own, but mine kinda kinda sucks 🙂 .  I practiced bending on my new planking station yesterday and determined what I next needed to know is where to put the peak of the curve.  I'm sure I'll find that in your videos, I appreciate it!

One quick question, so you don't see the need to edge glue the planks as well as attaching them at the bulkhead?

I'm guessing they must be here someplace, can anyone direct me to Chuck's video tutorials on planking?  It's time to up my game and relearn how to do my second planking's, I found one on You Tube and immediately constructed my "planking station" but I need a little more info.

Help with a  link would be appreciated 

On 1/8/2020 at 7:00 PM, barkeater said:

Stay away from CA.  Always use the PVA except when gluing metal to wood. It seeps into the wood and makes a stain very hard to sand out. Use PVA  {wood glue}. If you have gaps mix PVA with some sawdust of the wood you are planking with and use as a wood putty. If you just want to add strength just wipe on PVA with your finger tip, clean off any excess and sand.

I think that's a preference, not a rule. All my models are planked using CA.  One trick I use is to put a little CA in a gap then quickly sand it and the area around it, just a little bit.  The result is almost transparent, not museum perfect, but it works - certainly on an area be painted.

I contacted Amati by googling their address back 5-6 years ago when I built the Pegasus. It wasn't a quick process but they did mail me the parts I needed.

On 12/26/2019 at 10:41 AM, Vane said:

I think your photography is excellent of the ships and also the "explaining" photos.  I also dont mind the blue background at all. I am only talking about consistency where the colours are slightly different in different shots. You can either fix this "in photoshop" or perhaps better (and which will save u some time considering how many photos you take) is to make sure you are using the same settings and setup for every photo. My guess is that you have had the "whitebalance" setting in auto, and the camera has interested it differently where some photos are "too cold". Just switch the whitebalance to manual and 5500K usually match most flash. 

 

In "Product photography" consistency is key, compared to other forms of photography where you might want to be  more exprimental. Just find a style that suites you and your website and stick with it. 

I’m also a photographer.  Even basic cameras have white balance settings.  Vane noted you probably have it set in Auto, meaning the camera adjusts and has different color balances often even for the same “scene,”. Just change White Balance to any fix3d setting such as Daylight (colder, or bluish) Cloudy (warmer or yellowish) or Flash. The words don’t mean anything, just choose which you like best and consistently use it on every photo.  Easy...

On 12/1/2019 at 4:26 PM, Vane said:

It takes some practice, but once u get the hang of it u will plank much quicker. And the planks will look much nicer without any holes from pins.

I have insufficient patience for white glue when planking, all mine is done with CA.  The thrill of it all, get it right in 20 seconds or ... not...

On 12/1/2019 at 1:46 AM, Vane said:

Good to hear that, it will be interesting to see more logs here!

Just ordered mine as well. As an aside, you’ll enjoy your time with Granado, she was a fun build for me. 

On 9/21/2019 at 12:20 PM, chris watton said:

Today I took the Speedy box art shots and then put the box art together, does this look OK?

 

Just have the manual and plans to put together now, all laser and PE have been sent for cutting/etching.

 

Too late to offer an opinion I imagine but I have two suggestions: Include a photo of the completed stern. I often look at the box art for inspiration and confirmation I'm on the right track.  My second suggestion is to "upgrade" the color and definition of your VM logo.  The white gets washed out, we all want your models to stand out.  

As you can tell by my replies I'm spending my morning getting caught up on your posts, my order for Speedy will be made today. 🙂

On 9/12/2019 at 3:44 AM, chris watton said:

Thanks guys, your kind words are very much appreciated.

 

I should have the Speedy prototype model fully complete by the end of the weekend.

 

I do have another Speedy hull, with pear planking done, perhaps I will do another as Flirt in the future, with white hull below waterline and earlier rigging layout.

 

I quite like frigates, and plan a 32 (Amazon), 38 (Saucy Arethusa) and 44 gun (Indie) after Bristol.

So if I get Speedy and call if Flirt I can do a white hull (which I'd do anyway, after Vanguard and  even Pickle I am completely done with copper plating :-/?

On 7/8/2019 at 7:34 AM, chris watton said:

Last post before work..

 

Bulkhead tabs removed and sanded flush with top edge of deck, and some parts painted red before the pre cut and laser engraved deck is glued in place.

 

This is the time where you chose to use this deck or want to plank it yourself...

It would be nice to have a high quality deck that I didn't have to pencil edges of holly cut to fit and fill, then and drill in little holes... A very nice touch.  I've replaced the kit decking material on all my models, I'll look forward to not doing that this time.

On 6/11/2019 at 7:43 AM, chris watton said:

Thank you! The Alert is just under 640mm long and around 530mm high

The lengths quoted include the bowsprit right, I'm hoping the hull's not that long?

On 6/1/2019 at 4:46 AM, chris watton said:

Just had a sample of a laser engraved deck for Speedy arrive. I know how difficult it is to get the planking right, more so on smaller vessels where the planks bend and taper at the extremes. The engraving isn't as heavy as they were on the Mercury, and look almost drawn on with a pencil, a lot more unobtrusive. This will be done on 0.8mm plywood. What do you think?

Is the objective to have this as the final deck or to serve as a template on where to lay planking? I'm all for it as a finished deck, but hard to tell from the photos.

I once made a silly little stick figure in the right scale for Pegasus. Of course I didn’t leave it on the model, but it was fun. I can’t imagine how crowded a fully manned frigate must have been. That said, I agree Chris’ business is models, not figurines. 

Having built several of your designs, I’m a big fan of your work. I know where my next kit is coming from...

I see you also had fun, more than I did, with the “Captains Quarters.”