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glbarlow

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Posts posted by glbarlow

  1. PVA diluted about 50:50 with distilled water, put that in the gap with a pin trying to contain the glue in the gap as much as possible, add sawdust from the same wood you’re using, try to pack it in with a flat tool. Neither the glue or the sawdust has to be a perfect fit, just minimized as much as practical.  Let it dry thoroughly then lightly sand with 320, 400, 600 sandpaper until nothing is on the surrounding wood, just in the gap. Also being careful not to over-sand and creating a gouge. 

     

    It’s a bit of an acquired skill, but done well it can lead to virtually invisible fills.  I don’t use wood stains, but it does take Wipe On Poly just fine. This is all in reference to small gaps, large gaps I don’t know.

  2. For a direct answer to your question: Not only for ratlines but for all rigging I use White PVA diluted with distilled water to about a 50:50 mix.  I also use mat medium clear acyrillic in some cases, both dry near invisible. I’m a fan of CA for other purposes in model building, but not on rigging. 

  3. I export from Adobe Lightroom to a “boat” preset that scales my photos to 1500 pixels on the long edge. Before exporting I crop them to show I want to show to eliminate wasted space. At least this is what works for me. 
     

    My post have text supported by photos and vice versa. My opinion is too much of one without the other is less interesting or difficult to follow. 

  4. Don’t think you have much to worry about for USA vs. England.  Soccer doesn’t attract our best athletes, we’ll never go far against the world’s best. I played in high school while in Germany and college and love the game, I’ll enjoy the World Cup, but the US couldn’t even get past Wales. 
     

    Your Cheerful looks great. 

  5. Chuck’s method does not involve any soaking, it is heat from a travel iron or hot air on dry wood.  It is easy to bend wood against its grain using his method, I do it all the time and often twist it after I’ve bent it for stern planks. One point is that you “bend the wrong way” by bending the wood down for it to then curve up on the bow. You absolutely need to taper the wood, every strake should run from the bow to the stern,. So I use a metal ruler and a #11 blade to taper following the lining of the hull or simple math of how many full planks fit midships and the height available at the bow.  You need a bending station and the method Allan provided in Chuck’s video, push pins won’t work. First soaking the wood is just asking it to warp and curl.

     

    All that said I don’t know sapelli or its characteristics. I have bent 1mm Boxwood, Alaskan Yellow Cedar, and even kit walnut planks that were closer to .5 - 75mm but your wood looks very thin, as someone mentioned like bending paper.  One option is to replace that wood with something more common and thicker. The small cost of doing that may be worth the frustration of what you’re experiencing.

     

    Good work on learning to do it right. Planking is a skill learned only through experience. There are so many opinions and variations on techniques and what can and can’t be done, it is easy to get mentally twisted on trying to sort out what to do. I used to soak and force planks into place, I’m now fully a disciple of Chuck’s dry heat bending method. My build logs show how I’ve applied it to my models. Every plank it’s own project. The thin sapelli is one thing, choosing one technique and sticking with it is the most important step, then sticking with it. It pays off for a lifetime of modelling, so hang in there, it will come. 

  6. Look at photos of HMS Victory, lots of paint, not much unpainted. All stains and natural wood are modelers choice, but not likely accurate. Personally I’m not a fan of wood stains on a ship model, but that’s just me. I do like natural wood with a WOP finish matched up with other painted parts. Do what makes you happy. 

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