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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. During this period the ensign staff was held by two items. At the base was a roller with a blind hole for the foot of the staff. A block of wood on each side of the roller acted as its bearings. This allowed the staff to be rotated out of the way of the gaff and/or boom. To keep the staff in place, a capsquare was mounted on the fore side of the tafferel to retain it.
  2. Only if there are no curves: FoamCore board is rigid. If you mean dense styrofoam, it is very carveable and can be shaped to anything that you imagine. Just don't use hot wire to cut it: the off-gassing is very toxic!
  3. It might very well serve that purpose as well, but I've yet to see a plan or model to confirm that, Mark.
  4. One example is the following: https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-80763 The 'tongue' extends forward over the deck beam ahead. I suspect it is bolted down on this to distribute the load on the capstan when in use.
  5. The cathead supporter and ekeing rail are the most awkward parts in a ship as the curves are in two planes. Perhaps cutting a bit off the bottom of the supporter and fitting an intermediate piece will give you that smooth, curved transition.
  6. Just seeing this thread, Håkan. An interesting subject beautifully rendered. My sincere wishes for a successful recovery and outcome for your health.
  7. If anyone sees a shackle about 3/16" long coming through....
  8. You begin by making a small eye-splice at one end of the gammoning rope. (You will need a much longer length of line that you think!) The line is then taken over the bowsprit and threaded through its eye so that the line drapes down the port side of the model. The illustrations above will guide you for the rest of the process.
  9. Well, if you can get different weights of SilkSpan, you could even imitate the different weights of canvas used for various sails.
  10. Your attention to the fine details of the forged hooks is nothing short of superb. I've never seen the metal tapered so nicely as you've done it. Brilliant!
  11. Anyone have an opinion on a Primus 75 or Primus 100 machine vise?
  12. In actual practice a structural component would not be cut into or 'wounded' in any way. The thicker planking of the wale was more important, so the first method would be correct. The second photo appears to show the model-maker's 'easy out'.
  13. Welcome aboard, Barry!
  14. Delightful photos, HH. The model is gorgeous, with the morning light shining off the gilding, the early rays throwing the carved works into high relief.... I do sympathise with your personal situation. Many of us have gone through what you are experiencing and know how tough that road is.
  15. Be aware that some distortion is not due to the scanning process, but distortion of the paper itself after hundreds of years of fluctuating humidity in storage. Removing distortion, whether electronically or by manual redrafting is a tedious business!
  16. Here is a photo of a binnacle based on the Amazon class model's example.
  17. The lower left one in the illustration above is strange: normally there are two compasses, one on either side with the lamp in the center compartment. Why two compasses? One can be seen no matter whether the helmsman stands to the left or right of the wheel. Also, as planned redundancy, should one compass fail.
  18. One way to get around not having a drill press is mark out accurately on both sides, prick the center points and drill, slightly under size, from both sides. If the holes don't quite meet in the middle, the correct size drill up should take care of things.
  19. Dan: The issue with the 'gratten' tops on the NMM model is that the openings are at least 6" square: a real hazard. Were they finer mesh, it would be more plausible.
  20. This looks like a fascinating model, Clare. I'm looking forward to seeing the model take shape.
  21. I see the issue more clearly now. If you cut the crêpe rubber to the width of the openings between the frame elements or a whisker less, that should work.
  22. Try a piece of crêpe rubber eraser on the gummy remnants instead of solvent. Have you tried the low-tack version: 3M's Scotch brand removable matt tape instead?
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