druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Oh, Tom, if only you could see my hands. They are wrecked from over 40 years of arthritis and I'm not sure how much longer I can work at the level I have in the past. I'm not looking for pity here. It's to encourage those who aren't hand-icapped (another wretched pun!) that, with practice, you can probably do better than me. -
Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looks good to me - what mistake in wood choice? -
White glue with water content will cause a very thin plank to curl. The solution is to moisten the upper side of the plank first, then it won't do that. I suspect contact cement was recommended by the kit manufacturer because s there is only solvent (and nasty stuff at that) in it.
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I must say that I'm with you, Terry, having first wrestled this exact problem (manually drafted!) back about 1969. I rapidly came to the conclusion of 'one round up fits all' - at least in 1:48 scale. The trick was to start, as stated before, using the sheer at the side, not creating one first the centerline. 'Nuffsaid!
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Nice job on the pintles and gudgeons, and the bollard timbers look much improved! As the position of the upper pintle strap is about where a spectacle plate would be, I suspect that there was simply an eyebolt through the tip of the strap on each side for preventer chains. This is just a conjecture, though.
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Oxy/Butane Micro Torch Kit
druxey replied to Boccherini's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
And remember to turn on the gases in the correct sequence when igniting! -
Aft rigged main mast has one what, O.T.?
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I look at photos of his work and ask myself, "How on earth did he manage to do that?!" It is sublime. (pun intended!)
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Yes, lofting frames is a bit of an endurance test, but very satisfying once you start assembling a framed hull!
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Yes, Tony, there is just enough information on the drawing you show to reconstruct body plan (waterlines, if you need them) and proof diagonals to see if everything is fair. If you know frame spacing, you could even derive all the frame drawings. The buttock line help define the rapidly changing form of the hull at the extreme aft end
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Another assist in arriving at a fair hull are using diagonals. (These are the angled 'waterlines', if you like.)
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In wooden ships of the 18th century, the downward curve of a deck at the bow (the camber!) was related to the position of the hawse holes. The primary reason was that if the hawse holes were to come in a deck lower, freeboard would be insufficient and present a hazard. If the holes were high enough to come in at the deck above they would interfere with the headwork. The compromise was to locate the holes 'just right' and lower the forward end of the deck so that it came just below the level of the holes. The bonus was the drainage. Some ships had sloping hawse chutes instead to improve headroom for part of the deck below.
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As an extension of this thread to carving in general, I've just come across the story of two master carvers, past and present: https://spitalfieldslife.com/2021/07/12/the-quest-for-grinling-gibbons/#comments Studying the photos, it's a lesson in how to carve brilliantly. Something to aspire to!
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If one begins with a sheer line along the crown (centerline) of the beams, there will be unfairness at the ship's side with constant round up as described above. I do not think that this is true if one begins with a fair sheer line at the ship's side. Any comments. anyone?
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Coming along nicely!
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This video on the carving of a new figure for the Cutty Sark gives one carver's philosophy on carving. Five minutes worth spending! https://www.rmg.co.uk/stories/topics/new-figurehead-cutty-sark?mc_cid=1a42470307&mc_eid=ffd41ea53a#history
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Thank you, Phil, for graphically showing what I tried to describe in post #16. As for definitions, they have changed over time. In the period I've studied most, the 18th century, round up referred to the curve of the beams athwartships and camber referred to the downward sheer of a deck; usually at the bow towards the hawse holes.
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HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
druxey replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
You may find that once the sides of the boxing joint are sanded and horseshoe plates applied, it will look fine.- 122 replies
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I suspect that you are making thing unnecessarily difficult for yourself. Let us assume constant arciform round up. Think of the sheer plan view of the vessel. If you place the beams with the upper surface of their outer ends on a smooth sheer curve (that at the ship's side), the line of the beams at the centerline will mirror the curve at the sides for a short distance fore and aft. As you approach bow or stern, the sheer line at the center will converge with the sheer at the side in a smooth manner, ending together at the bow.
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Did you pre-drill holes for the nails? If not, that is helpful.
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Terry: The lower surface of the beam ends might be trimmed horizontally, but normally the underside would arch up to maximize the (limited) headroom below.
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It makes no difference surely, as a vessel is not static like a building. There I can see that an ellipse might be used: roofs - generally - do not taper! A ship rolls, so why bother with an elliptical round-up?
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Allan: your video is actually terrifying. Now I truly understand the rate of deforestation of this planet. I had no idea how ruthlessly efficient and rapidly trees can be dispatched.
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I think one needs an odd number of holes for crowsfeet, or it won't work out!
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