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Everything posted by druxey
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Oh, Tom, if only you could see my hands. They are wrecked from over 40 years of arthritis and I'm not sure how much longer I can work at the level I have in the past. I'm not looking for pity here. It's to encourage those who aren't hand-icapped (another wretched pun!) that, with practice, you can probably do better than me.
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looks good to me - what mistake in wood choice?- 475 replies
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White glue with water content will cause a very thin plank to curl. The solution is to moisten the upper side of the plank first, then it won't do that. I suspect contact cement was recommended by the kit manufacturer because s there is only solvent (and nasty stuff at that) in it.
- 109 replies
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- Finished
- Artesania Latina
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I must say that I'm with you, Terry, having first wrestled this exact problem (manually drafted!) back about 1969. I rapidly came to the conclusion of 'one round up fits all' - at least in 1:48 scale. The trick was to start, as stated before, using the sheer at the side, not creating one first the centerline. 'Nuffsaid!
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Nice job on the pintles and gudgeons, and the bollard timbers look much improved! As the position of the upper pintle strap is about where a spectacle plate would be, I suspect that there was simply an eyebolt through the tip of the strap on each side for preventer chains. This is just a conjecture, though.
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Oxy/Butane Micro Torch Kit
druxey replied to Boccherini's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
And remember to turn on the gases in the correct sequence when igniting! -
Yes, Tony, there is just enough information on the drawing you show to reconstruct body plan (waterlines, if you need them) and proof diagonals to see if everything is fair. If you know frame spacing, you could even derive all the frame drawings. The buttock line help define the rapidly changing form of the hull at the extreme aft end
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In wooden ships of the 18th century, the downward curve of a deck at the bow (the camber!) was related to the position of the hawse holes. The primary reason was that if the hawse holes were to come in a deck lower, freeboard would be insufficient and present a hazard. If the holes were high enough to come in at the deck above they would interfere with the headwork. The compromise was to locate the holes 'just right' and lower the forward end of the deck so that it came just below the level of the holes. The bonus was the drainage. Some ships had sloping hawse chutes instead to improve headroom for part of the deck below.
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Thank you, Phil, for graphically showing what I tried to describe in post #16. As for definitions, they have changed over time. In the period I've studied most, the 18th century, round up referred to the curve of the beams athwartships and camber referred to the downward sheer of a deck; usually at the bow towards the hawse holes.
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HMS Euryalus 1803 by rlb - 1:48 scale
druxey replied to rlb's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
You may find that once the sides of the boxing joint are sanded and horseshoe plates applied, it will look fine.- 122 replies
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- Euryalus
- Plank-on-frame
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I suspect that you are making thing unnecessarily difficult for yourself. Let us assume constant arciform round up. Think of the sheer plan view of the vessel. If you place the beams with the upper surface of their outer ends on a smooth sheer curve (that at the ship's side), the line of the beams at the centerline will mirror the curve at the sides for a short distance fore and aft. As you approach bow or stern, the sheer line at the center will converge with the sheer at the side in a smooth manner, ending together at the bow.
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Did you pre-drill holes for the nails? If not, that is helpful.
- 160 replies
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- Model Shipways
- norwegian sailing pram
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