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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Thanks for looking in, everyone. The tholes were completed and the rub strake installed. The rub strake profile was rounded using a molding scraper and lengths then cut off using a slitting blade in the saw. The last challenge was the roundels at the bow. The lettering was too small to paint by hand, so I created the roundels in PhotoShop at 600 dpi and printed multiple copies. The rope ring was beige thread. I formed the rings by wrapping thread around a drill bit shank, stiffening them with white glue. When dry, the rings were sliced off and glued to the roundels. The roundels were then cut free of the paper and the cut edges match painted. The rudder is next, as this completed the boat itself.
  2. druxey
    I'd ditch Frame 1, I think. It would be almost an upright plank!
  3. druxey
    If only a hull were as easy to plank a s a roof!!!
  4. druxey
    Ingenious - especially your technique for producing (sub)miniature chain.
  5. druxey
    It all depends, Don!
  6. druxey
    Funny, that. You've been working on soles while I've been working on tholes! Nice progress, Maury.
  7. druxey
    Visualize the rabbet as the outside shape of the boat, but less the planking.
  8. druxey
    Progressing nicely, Steve. Neatness pays off!
  9. druxey
    And, of course, shorter lengths were employed at the bow and stern!
  10. druxey
    Your idea that: "There is a little decorative carving on it but most importantly, it appears to be rotated to starboard and the lower end of the stem head protrudes into the stem." is, I think, misinterpreting the plan. The head knee is central and let in with a shallow scarphed mortise on to the stem head. The shading at the tip of the knee is indicative only of the carved detail. The bowsprit is centered between the two bollard timbers. There is a minimal shallow groove centrally on the breast hook for the bowsprit. I suspect that the stem head proper was cut down and is either shown before it was revised or is erroneously drawn. If the bowsprit were offset, it was more frequently done to starboard, not port. The only reason to offset a bowsprit was to run it inboard past the mast, as on a Revenue cutter. In that case, it would never be lashed to the knee of the stem as shown. Other opinions?
  11. druxey
    Now on to the tholes. These look to be either bronze castings or of lignum vitae on the actual boat. For contrast, I'm using pear wood. The photo shows three stages in making these. It is much easier to shape them in situ than hold them in a hand vise. One done, eleven to go!
  12. druxey
    That's an impressive result for using a woven material.
  13. druxey
    Have you TFFM Volume II? There is a method for making wheels in it if you do.
  14. druxey
    Welcome aboard, Alexander!
  15. druxey
    Thank you again, everyone, for following along and for your kind comments. The seat back held several challenges. It curves, is tilted and has to fit properly. The shape was determined using card patterns. A two-layer veneer of Castello was laid up on a one quart paint can. This, 4" in diameter, was exactly the correct radius - sometimes the gods smile upon us. I noted two supporting battens on the rear of the seat back, just visible in one of Eberhard's photos. As it turned out, constructing the back was the easy part. Much more challenging were the two 'horns'; the supporting timbers on the fore side of the seat. Compound curved surfaces and compound angled scores were needed. It took a very long full morning to successfully complete these. These completed the internal woodwork on the cutter. Next will be finishing the exterior: rudder, rubbing strake, tholes and decorative roundels at the bow.
  16. druxey
    It probably was not a poop deck at this time period. The 'cabin' under was a hutch for the 'trumpeter'.
  17. druxey
    Sweeps? Yes, there will be. Davits? No - then I'd have to build the ship the davits are attached to. "Ain't got no time for that!" Thanks for the kind comments and for looking in again, everyone.
  18. druxey
    I might suggest making a coaming joint from scrap first as practice and to provide a pattern for the actual joints.
  19. druxey
    Did you use a steady?
  20. druxey
    The wash strakes are now complete with their reinforcing pieces of in-rail. The in-rail is trapezoidal in section. I cut strips wider than the finished rail, beveled the outer edges, glued the pieces in, then trimmed the inner edge with a sharp blade and sanded. It is surprising how solid the structure of the model is. I'm in the process of fitting the last two knees at the stern, uniting in-rail with the transom. Again the knee is fitted and glued in over-size and the inner face shaped once it is secured. Although there are still quite few details to make, it is time to start considering how to mount and display the model. I'm favoring a similar base to that of other open boats that I have made, featuring burl veneer. However, a final decision is still pending. (The pencil included for scale has been requested!)
  21. druxey
    I use MicroMark's lead-free pewter. The MP is a little higher, but it's safer! Good luck trying to resuscitate the existing pieces.
  22. druxey
    I would not be too concerned about that slight hull asymmetry: in the completed model, who is going to measure whether that beakhead bulkhead is exactly at 90 degrees to the centerline? Nice progress, HH.
  23. druxey
    I was terrified of trying to cast in metal, but when I finally tried ( in pewter) I found it was not so difficult. RTV moulds are similar to resin casting ones. The only thing with a two-part closed mold is to provide air escape vents. A regular propane torch is fine for melting the metal.
  24. druxey
    End grain and moisture are always an issue that needs to be dealt with.
  25. druxey
    Each step is a micro-model of its own. Nicely and neatly done.

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