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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Now what would be really interesting is for you to build this kit, then build a modern kit version and see how the two compare!
  2. What plug? Nice progress, Toni! My only comment is that I interpret the shaded are at the tip of the knee as being shaved away to a blunt point as seen from above. If you can do that, the carving will look even nicer. Oh, and don't forget the shallow notch for the gammoning. See the Weazle draught.
  3. Eberhard: I was lucky this time. I made 12 blanks and did not have to re-do any of the ten. HH: Thank you. If you know the tricks of the trade, faux wood grain of all kinds is not that difficult. A wonderful book on the subject is: Professional Painted Finishes, by the Marx brothers (not those ones!) Allen and Robert and Ina Brosseau Marx, Watson Guptill, 1991.
  4. All ten oars are now carved and ready for bindings and leathering. Work continues on the base and pedestals. The latter will be from ⅛" diameter acrylic rod, so as to be minimalist.
  5. That galley roof is beautiful. I'm sorry that it will hardly be seen.
  6. As a bit of light relief while making oars (five down, five to go!) I faux-painted a burlwood base for the model. There will be molding all the way around and a sub-base as well.
  7. Shipman: Something in the order of 0.010" at 1:48 scale (I think that's was what you were asking!)
  8. Keith: Theoretically 5/8", but they are actually a whisker thicker for integrity of the blade ends.
  9. They are not complete yet nor bound with a metal strap to prevent splitting. All in good time, Roger!
  10. Contour duplicators are much too large and coarse to be useful in model-making. Save your money, unless you are doing house reno's.
  11. If the light balance is a little off, the joinery certainly isn't!
  12. It is much better that the thwarts are too long than too short! No-one has invented a good wood stretcher yet. Card patterns are certainly the way to go, just as you suggested. Cut a piece roughly to the angle you need, then refine it by careful trimming. For complex shapes, you can glue small pieces of card to a larger one to get exactly the shape you need.
  13. Good question, Greg. The oars will be deployed in the same way as the Greenwich Hospital barge model.
  14. Thank you so much, folks. Pete: I, too, was once in awe of other model-makers. Slowly, bit by bit, I kept improving and learning. You can do it too! Pictured is the prototype for the 14' 0" oars. These are probably the smallest and most delicate I have made so far. I still have to add the binding on the end of the blade. One down, nine to go....
  15. David: your tactic of placing a clamp or even a loop of seizing line on with the shroud pair in place, sliding it off and completng the seizing is a great strategy. It's worked well for me!
  16. I found making a maquette (larger sized) in clay first helped me get the 3D problems worked out before carving in wood. It helped me visualize what to cut away. I agree that there is much more control with hand tools than with rotary power. Your banner holding angel looks good. The more carving you do you'll find you get rapidly better. (I shudder at some of my early attempts!) I also found looking at classical sculpture pictures helped me a lot.
  17. Maury: Thanks for asking, but no, as it would not really add anything to what has already been published.
  18. Now you are just having fun! Very nicely realised details.
  19. I bet you were nervous drilling those hawse holes! Well done.
  20. That looks about what I'd expect to see, Michael. Good job! The rabbet can be very wide up to the bearding line in vessels with fine entries.
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