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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. Bob: So many folk buy an elaborate first kit and quickly run onto the rocks. You are smart in beginning small and working up. Even a 'simple' model isn't that simple, as you've found out!
  2. Through bolts had a slot on the outer end that a forelock - a wedge-shaped piece of iron sheet - was pushed through and bent into an 'S 'to retain it. There was a washer under the forelock to prevent wood from being crushed. As many items as possible on a ship had to be easily replaced in the event. All it needed was a hammer.
  3. Nice result for a first wooden boat build, Bob. Every build is a learning process. You'll find the next model will benefit from your experience building this one. Well done!
  4. That sounds like what we call 'sanding sealer', Amalio. Beautifully marked out mast wedges and and so accurately cut by hand!
  5. Not every ship model shows every detail! Another instance is that scuppers are seldom shown either. They would, of course be present in the actual ship. Remember that many models are stylized to a greater or lesser extent.
  6. All I can do is shake my head and keep reminding myself that this model is not at 1:48 or 1:64! Amazing.
  7. Channel bends is an alternate name for the channel wale planks.
  8. Once you read Longridge, it will all become clear. To explain everything that you need to know would take a book - and it's already been written! But, briefly the analogous timber to the deadwood amidships is the rising wood. It is usually only a few inches high at the dead flat and about 3" wider than the keel. It seems to be omitted from your cross sectional illustration above. However, it was standard in those days.
  9. Very neatly done, Siggi! Another way is to glue the blank to a piece of wood using white glue. The advantage is that you can turn the piece in any direction while carving and also keeping your fingers safe. Also, if you slip, it won't harm your model. Soak the piece in rubbing alcohol to free it when you are finished.
  10. I think you'll find that after some time, differences in wood color tend to deepen and even out.
  11. Buttock lines are seldom seen on contemporary draughts. If you have the knowledge, by using waterlines and station sections you can construct these yourself.
  12. Very nicely realised scrollwork, Marsalv!
  13. The problem with the carver's bench, above, is that - beautiful as it is - it has insufficient knee room for sitting. It is essentially a standing bench.
  14. It a appears that a series of cleats are attached to the vertical staging posts.
  15. The table Joe posted (#14) is a jeweler's bench. Good for ultra-miniature work, it doesn't have the flat surface area most model-makers need. If you can afford an electric table adjustable of height on a cantilever principle, then that is the best option - particularly if you are a wheelchair user.
  16. Source, Mark, is Ch10/65 or CHN 0105 RMG (Royal Museums Greenwich).
  17. The 'fishhooks' are the numeral 1, as are the green circled numerals.
  18. I only woke up to the benefits of parallel pliers a few years ago when I took a jewelry making course. Wish I'd had a pair decades ago! They are indispensable for miniature 'smithing'. Lovely work there. BTW, my capsquares were built up, not cast. Mind you, I didn't need the quantity of them that you require.
  19. Some wood springs back more than other species. Basswood has very little spring-back in thin pieces.
  20. It's amazing how, with the planksheer and timberheads, the model suddenly looks more finished - even if it isn't! Lovely work there, Alex.
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