druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Well done indeed, Steven. It has been interesting to follow your journey into uncharted territory and ending up with a plausible result. I've enjoyed the presentation of what evidence you had in order to arrive at an outstanding conclusion. And thank you for putting up with my admittedly terrible puns. -
No, the groove on the circumference of the open heart should be the same as you have on the closed one. However, the laniard and lashing grooves could also be eased around the bends quite a bit as well. Think in terms of not having any line taking a sharp turn.
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Very nicely done indeed, marsalv!
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Many models show a solid surround filling the gap between the galley exhaust and the coaming. I think that's what you will have here. As for the forecastle breastwork, you'll need to be master shipwright and decide on sheaves and/or standards!
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Looks as if Gregory's captive audience looks none too happy. "I have to row and listen to him?" The Madrid image has the steersman using a double-handed grip, I note.
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All becomes clear now! Thanks, Mark. Looks like very plausible arrangement. Two lines missing forward in the elliptical hole at the joint lines, though.
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Sure gives you an appreciation for the shipwrights of old and why apprenticeships were seven years long. You worte: "Marvellous how alcohol helps a problem." One way or another! -
Can't download your 'snapshot', Mark.
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Without seeing the actual model, I really wouldn't want to advise you of the best course to take. Perhaps more photos might make the situation clearer to see. -
Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
At each step, be as accurate as you possibly can be. Cumulative error adds up very quickly. Errors never seem to cancel each other out! For cant frames and hawse pieces, check all these factors: 1) Angle of foot 2) Height of step 3) Height from the board to the toptimber line 4) Verticality 5) For hawse timbers, the accumulated width across them as you add each one 6) For cant frames, making sure that the sided dimension (thickness ) at the foot is correct and does not push the next cant off its step 7) Width must equal that of the maximum breadth on the baseboard -
Quite the collection, Alan! Perhaps the groove for the line around the open hearts could be more semicircular, like you have on the closed hearts?
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Just for the record, Allan, I read Ship Modelling Hints and Tips in about 1955!
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I agree with you, Bob. Most belaying pins on models are poorly proportioned and usually out of scale. However, as far as commercial pins go, those shown from Model Expo are far better than others I've seen!
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Wood. I doubt weighing documents with a wooden belaying pin would be particularly effective! The brass ones look nice and are well shaped, but I'd paint them ochre brown.
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When starting out using silver solder, there will be more failures than successes. However, after a while, success will become routine stuff. Occasionally, though, there will be a day where nothing goes right. I had one of those last week. Either the wind was in the wrong direction, the milk had gone sour or I'd stepped on the cat, but when one experiences failure after failure, walk away. The next day I nailed it first time. There's alchemy in there somewhere....
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The raising of waterline or boot topping fore and aft to counteract the optical illusion of 'droop' was something I first read years ago in Lt. Commander L.H. Craine's Ship Modelling Hints and Tips, 1948.
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The other possibility is to reduce the gas flow on the torch (if you can) so that the flame does not blow away the silver solder paillon.
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I guess that the windlass won't wind, alas! It's interesting the things one discovers on the journey of a build. Either "They can't possibly have done that like that," or "Aha! So that what that's for!".
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Almost. Get rid of the sharp edges where the lanyard will run, or it will fray through in no time!
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Your block shapes are great. However, the hearts should be rounded off more on the inner sides/edges.
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Ooh! Nice project, Chris. I'm on board here for a vicarious ride....
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Interesting procedure. Does the set silicon stone have any slight flex or is it perfectly rigid like conventional dental stone?
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Swan-Class Sloop by Stuglo - FINISHED - 1:48
druxey replied to stuglo's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
That cross-chock is one of the trickiest bits to do. Looks like you are beating it into submission!
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