druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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I should have added, correct one axis of distortion at a time. Trying to do both axes simultaneously will bring you a free white jacket with extra long sleeves. -
One can do the 'uncurving' as Alan suggests, or the other way is to see the curve in plan, then take a paper tick strip, place it against the curve at one end and 'walk' it along the curve bit by bit, marking off the counter timbers or whatever as you go until you reach the other end. The tick strip then becomes the 'unwrapped' curve.
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Promising start! Basswood ( I accidentally typed 'bassweed' -Freudian slip?) is another animal altogether. Not the best, as you've discovered, for precise joinery.
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Glenn: when I think of all the hours Chris puts into writing instructions, I think he'll feel crushed when he reads your post!
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Can't be THAT different from knitting... (New Member)
druxey replied to Grisha's topic in New member Introductions
We are duly warned! Welcome aboard, Grisha. -
Parallel tape can be visually deceiving. I'd recommend using black thread and white glue. It's easy to reposition the thread: moisten your finger and roll the thread up or down as needed. And remember to check the work right way up from all angles!
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Yes, apparently the cistern was used for that purpose. The entry to the quarter gallery was deliberately made small. In heavy seas the gallery could get carried away and it was easier to defend a small opening with a deadlight in emergencies.
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Certainly the promotional makes this sound promising. Thanks for bringing our attention to it.
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If the balcony is 'solid' a laminated construction over a shaped mold is the way to go.
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Before you go too far, the knee of the head also tapers from the stem toward the tip. This is something missed on many models. For a 28 gun ship the tip should taper down to 4" (Steel).
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Happy now?
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Nice story and beautiful subject, JD. Great getting hold of he builders' draughts!
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Bienvenue, Jacques! Bien fait! (Welcome, Jacques; well done).
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What a naughty midshipman! Definitely a bad 'un.
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Silkspan has been used for sails and flags by many model-makers with excellent results.
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re post 1674: you've got it, Mark!
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Ron explains really the best way to make masts and spars. Dowel is for beginners. Also, by planing the stock four-square, then eight-square; the taper is controllable and it's exactly how it was done in the shipyard.
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The green outline in your sketch should have the 'back' at right angles to the sheer of the quarter gallery. (Fip the forward green c/s, move it aft and you'll see it will match). Mock it up in #3D if you need convincing.
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I'm trying to recall what I did here on Polyphemus, but it was nearly 50 years ago when I was building that part of the model! I do know that there was a curved beam forward of the rudderhead. I think I mortised two half-beam/transoms (with a rabbet for the plank ends) into the angles of the counter timbers, but wouldn't swear to this now. That would have been similar to Gary's proposal.
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Barnham Rider was forgiven all and restored to his rank and position in March, 1811 by the Lords of the Admiralty.
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Barnham Rider was forgiven and restored to his position in 1811 by the Lords of the Admiralty.
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Apparently the builder failed in 1807. Somehow Kidwell must have been back in business - maybe! - in 1810. He had been contracted to build Pyramus, 36 guns, later 42, in 1805. After the yard closed, her frames were transported to Portsmouth, where the ship was reassembled and completed. That ad sounds sketchy to me.
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Lovely! I hope that the cadran solaire wall faces due south, though!
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Usually the nibbed waterway is flush with the deck planking. Is this not so on Gemma?
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