druxey
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Everything posted by druxey
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Everything 'sits down' visually very nicely except for those red handwheels. Should they be softened down a little? -
Well, it is on a perfectly flat surface. Wait until you plank the lower counter, HH.
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- heller
- soleil royal
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Once your frames are set, glue temporary spacers between them near the sheer line. It will immediately solidify the framework and minimize the possibility of breakage.
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Ah! Now we see the photos. Very neat and methodical indeed, HH.
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2019 NRG Conference Coverage
druxey replied to TomShipModel's topic in NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
Sorry to have missed you, Clare. -
In U.K. you should find pear (unsteamed). That is a nice to work.
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The carrot/eyesight thing is a myth from WWII, in order to disguise the fact that the Allies had radar to 'see' at night! Hope the health issue is sorting out, Dan. Lovely work on your model. How did you keep the circle cutter running true? I always found that the blade tracked off and did not end up where it had started! Is there a trick to this?
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Is lime still an option in the U.K.?
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Good to see you back, Dan. The final result gives great, if somewhat schizoid, impression. Well done!
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- leviathan
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'Gluggy'. What a wonderfully descriptive word! I'm adding that to my vocabulary. Thank you, Steven!
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The problem with these kind of tools is that different wood species require different temperatures to bend them. Too little heat - no result. Too much, and you get scorching. A thermostatically controlled iron where you can regulate temperature is required. These are more expensive (of course!) and mainly used by conservators of paintings.
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Looks like a transcription error into print. The entry for the 24 gun ship seems to be the accurate one. She was built by Barton of Liverpool, launched 9.5.1785 and survived (as a hulk) until sold in 1817. (Lyon, The Sailing Navy List, page 89).
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Sorry to read of your tumble, Alan (I'm just catching up on your previous posts). Hope all is well now. If you can manage a pair of cant frames in a day, that's pretty good progress. For fixation to the building board, I use captive nuts in the keel/rising wood and bolts from below. These eventually end up securing the model to the pedestals on the display board.
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Basically, with odd numbers, the first shroud pair to go on goes up one side, splits with a cut splice over the mast head, and then down the other side. The rest go on in pairs to the same side alternately, starboard pair first, then port, etc.
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She looks very nice at this point in construction, Clare. The upward sweep to the stern is very elegant.
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Now, isn't that silly: I assumed that there was already an inclined plane between the two halves of the jig! Nice architectural model story, Mark.
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Jack: I've just come across your post. What you show on the different framing disposition plans are various ways to either shift or cast frame timbers so that the spacing of toptimbers between the ports is correct. (The shipwright was not allowed to cut into the sides of toptimbers to form the edges of the ports - a strength issue.) There were many methods of doing this in use. Some plans show the spacer blocks that were used where the frame parts were bolted together (your second example). This was done throughout, but was only indicated on one frame pair on the plan.
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That's an ingenious method for getting the plank set-back to form the rebate, Mark. I'm glad that it's working out for you. Looking good!
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Nice progress, Keith, even though the deck looks like a bad case of measles at the moment!
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