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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. druxey
    Also, soften the brass first!
  2. druxey
    The practice of alternating beam ends and 'mouthing' or the boring of air holes is described and illustrated in The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780, Volume I, pages 256 and 262.
  3. druxey
    I find I use elastic band fixation methods more as well these days. Very nice looking finish on your deck there, Keith!
  4. druxey
    Also, with the heavier metal, there is no 'chatter'.
  5. druxey
    It is never a good idea to display a good model in a window, for all the reasons mentioned. Heat alone will differentially affect one side of the model, leading to hull distortion, shrunk wood and eventual structural failure. This is before even considering UV degradation of rigging!.
  6. druxey
    Yes, too bad that detail will be hidden. However, a photo record before you assemble the parts....
  7. druxey
    Your professional experience certainly shows! Lovely work, Yoshka.
  8. druxey
    Perhaps....
  9. druxey
    10 at a time, Keith? That takes a special talent. I bow to your superior breakage rate. Vaddoc: could miniature bolts such as from Scale Hardware do the trick for you?
  10. druxey
    Thanks and congratulations to the organizers of this year's Conference. It was a great weekend (apart from balky A/V equipment!)
  11. druxey
    I tend to think that the dovetail was only the depth of the let-down on the clamp, as Mark suggests.
  12. druxey
    Congratulations on this, Ben. Now, you get back to your Pegasus!
  13. druxey
    All hail, isopropanol!
  14. druxey
    Looks like a good start, Boxnotes.
  15. druxey
    Also love your 'handle'. I laughed out loud when I read it. Welcome! Good for you both. I'm sure you'll find the support you need here on this site.
  16. druxey
    Yes, I love that painting as well! I think it's called 'Fog Warning', or something like that. There's a great book called The Dory Book by John Gardner that is worth reading.
  17. druxey
    I agree with Davec: I use about 3" to 4" lengths. I hold the piece securely in a 'third hand' and blaze away. A semi-darkened room shows me cherry red more easily than in full light.
  18. druxey
    There are groups who gather to toast "The Immortal Memory" on this day each year.
  19. druxey
    Hmm. That has a nice ring to it!
  20. druxey
    I am able to clamp cheeks in a vise by the inside corner to scratch mold (line the vise with soft jaws!). I don't try to go round the corner of the side arm; I finish that off with Swiss files. Also, I leave the knee arm long until after I've cut in the molding.
  21. druxey
    Flexible sanding sticks are a good idea, Roks. Depending on how rough the surface is, you might start with 100 grit. However, unless you need to remove a lot of material (I hope that's not the case!) start with 150 grit, then 220 and, if you feel the need, 400 grit to finish. Files are not a good idea here. For protection of the parts you don't want to damage, masking tape is good. Sanding sticks will get into corners for you.
  22. druxey
    But ain't that the interesting part?
  23. druxey
    It's like the articles I used to see in Model Engineer when I was a kid! Nice save and beautiful machine work.
  24. druxey
    Bruce: I agree with you that that saw is the best way to cut wood - but not fingers! I hope the damage was minimal.
  25. druxey
    Dovetail, I believe, Allan. See French style builds for this treatment of deck beams and clamps.

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