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druxey

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Everything posted by druxey

  1. That's correct, TB. They are used for hoisting when rigging.
  2. There will always be a lot of scrap when reducing bamboo to treenail size, Alan!
  3. Yes, the jaws of a parallel pliers do not 'pinch' like regular ones. The jaws stay parallel to each other through the whole opening range. See: https://www.amazon.ca/MAK-Parallel-Action-Inserts-Jewellery/dp/B01L1CSJMQ/ref=sr_1_1?gclid=Cj0KCQiA6IHwBRCJARIsALNjViUSdAvG0_WJHKGbzsJZkPvfbLJt7eYgeKIPD0epCwNVDC4pnayzUVsaAplSEALw_wcB&hvadid=254899150231&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9000745&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=5763433321150160024&hvtargid=kwd-297781321436&hydadcr=24908_10283703&keywords=parallel+pliers&qid=1577154999&sr=8-1
  4. Well, welcome back! What you have circled appear to be the Burton pendants of the standing rigging, not the slings. If you have a copy of Longridge's The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, this will be clear in the beautiful perspective drawing of the fore top by G.F. Campbell between pages 212 and 213.
  5. The easiest way to manage bamboo is to take a sharp blade and split the bamboo in half. Halve each piece again repeatedly, until the lengths are small enough to feed into your drawplate. Discard any softer pieces: they will break as you draw them. If necessary, slightly sharpen the end to begin to feed it. Parallel pliers are best for drawing: they will not crush the fibers like a regular pliers.
  6. One always has to re-draft plans! There is, inevitably, distortion due to copying, paper movement with humidity changes etc. And that quite apart from actual drafting errors. Have fun!
  7. Interesting point: was the molding an integral part of the transom, or a separate piece attached over the transom and plank ends? In British shipbuilding, it was a separate piece. Interesting auction extracts, Bruce.
  8. Nicely done! Especially at that small scale. Happy holidays to you also. By the way, what you added is not called a wale but a molding.
  9. I've seen paintings on copper where the dark (bituminous) background and any paint that had it mixed in simply craze into flakes and fall off, gesso ground included.
  10. Welcome, Dean. I had similar experiences to Chris Coyle (see above) which I why I started building ship models. Those balsa planes kept crashing! Hopefully yours didn't - the model ones, I mean!
  11. 'Shoal' is also sometimes spelled as 'sole'. I suppose it depended on the writer's degree of sobriety!
  12. Nicely lofted frames, G.L. A safety note: Never cast molten metal into a plaster mold unless the mold is completely dry! Moisture can turn instantly to steam, spraying molten metal at you. I recommend drying out the plaster in an oven at very low warming temperature.
  13. Excellent 3D fly-around renderings on this site! There is an auto-translate feature that came up on my screen. Thanks for bringing this to our attention, Matle.
  14. Model Expo is coming out with a series of 'real' boat kits. Each is a progressive skill-building kit. The first one is an East Coast dory.
  15. It appears that the floor riders are located at 10.8, 12.2, 13.5. 15.7 and 17.7. The futtock riders rise adjacent to these as high as the gun deck. (The Leopard illustration you posted confuses these as being single continuous items, which they are not!) The items at 2 and 3 are not riders but crutches. I strongly recommend you read a book on construction of the period such as Longridge's Anatomy of Nelson's Ships, Goodwin's The Sailing Man of War or Antscherl's The Fully Framed Model.
  16. Any Japanese style saw is amazing!
  17. Welcome to the club, Bhupi! You'll find more advice here than you can possibly use.
  18. Recovery of parts of Invincible, including the knee of the head, sunk in 1759: https://www.bbc.com/news/av/uk-england-dorset-50747903/revolutionary-18th-century-naval-ship-to-go-on-display-in-poole
  19. Original armament, according to Lyon's The Sailing Navy List, was 10 4 pounders and 12 swivels. 4 18 pounder carronades 'were to be added'. I would trust Lyon over Winfield, with all due respect to both gentlemen!
  20. I'm sure that there were local variations, but they were generally longer and much thinner than seen on most models. The handles would be less than 2" in diameter (try grabbing a chunky one in your hand!) and the overall length about 18" long. See: https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/3892.html
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